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Is it smoking at all when it runs? If so, is it more pronounced under acceleration, or deceleration. If it is smoking more when decelerating it's probably valve guides. Not an easy job, but better than the alternative of a shot motor, and with yours at only 150K, I doubt that. Does sure sound...

I also thought the flares looked after-market, certainly not the same as the factories I have.

I've always liked PB Blaster, but one pro to another, I always respect experience and I'll be looking into this "Free". As far as being spendy, you can't really put a price on something that works, the right tool for the job. Cheap tools aren't great and Great tools aren't cheap.

There is some good carbon fiber stuff out there for your 3D. Check out Micro Mark.

My factories are still working fine, though the lock mechanism leaves something to be desired. I keep inadvertently locking them.

Suspected as much...Please do not get yourself killed with that beast!! And I'm sure it is a beast...

As I already stated, sounds shady to me.

A couple of weeks for wheel spacers? Was this a reputable shop? Sounds to me like you have been taken for a ride. A K-Mart Super Center in Denver once tried it with my mom. Took my Dads' J20 in for a clutch, while she was waiting to pick it up a grease monkey presented her a trans pan with...

Oooh....Still got the 35? That's not going last, I killed mine with a 2.5. Ended up with a custom 35 spline D489 @ about $3400.

Nice swap! Mungo impressed... She's going to be a hand full with that mill!

As long as the firing order is correct it just comes down to common sense routing, as @Gilaguy23 said. Just make it clean, there are some zip-tie tricks you can use too.

Kubota...Interesting, used to work on those as a youngster. How are you adapting the trans? Years ago I swapped a SM420 behind a 2.0 Pinto, I had to fab a bell housing to do it. I intend to put that same box behind my the 2.5 in my '91 at some point in time.

I got a Prothane 1" kit from 4WP for about $145. It was just as easy to install, though I did have the luxury of a lift at my disposal. The only problems I ran into were a frozen telescope steering shaft and I broke a vac line to the CAD. A little bit of butt crack, but that was easily enough...

Well that's the way my newer Merc is too, first time I've ever had it. With my combo street and interstate driving, I have to say I like it! Still need to figure out if my if my old El Dorado box will fit Fluffy, though it may be a faster ratio.

With a 3-4" he's talking about, definitely. One of the reasons, though not stated, I recommended 1-1/2" max. I would especially be concerned about the t-case selector, it's pretty damn close to the floor as is. And that much body lift is still just UGLY.

As I understand variable is a function of the pump and engine speed, not the box. I could be wrong....

Happy hunting, sorry but I couldn't find any instrument wiring in the FSM to give you a color code. I would have looked at my '91, but it isn't here, got issues of my own.

Yup, that's the temp sensor, or what's left of it looks broken off. I don't don't have clue as to the connector but judging by all the cut wires it's probably gone. Dunno if it was in that missing harness or not.

A body lift kit is your best bet, preferably one piece urethane replacements. The kit will have everything you need in whatever height you you want, otherwise it's just spacers and longer bolts. Personally I would not exceed 1-1/2" after that they just look ugly. No other parts are required but...

A true Torsen-Gleason is a little different from a TrueTrac, also much more fragile. Can't speak from experience how each may act differently, but the TrueTrac uses some addition forces to lock up. They both work on worm principal though you have to drive any LSD easy when it's slippery.