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I have been using the bikini top that came with the jeep, but I’m considering getting a real top in case I decide to take it on the trails. I assumed i’d get a soft top because the top-down experience is to me one of the most essential parts of Jeep ownership. But the YJ soft top hardware...

The speaker magnet on the passenger side kept grabbing my wrench but i eventually got them threaded; the driver side looks impossible unless you have big hole in the dash where a speaker used to be.

That’s what I figured. I just had the dash apart recently; at least it’s fresh in my mind, and I don’t have to remove it completely anyway.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but I need to get the lower bolts off to remove some rusty POS mirrors. I got the passenger side off and heard the nuts fall out as I removed the bolts. I figured they were rivnuts/nutserts that broke off, but there were two OEM-looking 1/2” nuts with integrated...

I’ve hardly put the YJ in 4wd in the year + that I’ve owned it since it’s just a city driver at the moment, but someday I might take it to Colorado and pair it with the LJ on the trails. Ive thought about doing the CAD delete, but haven’t seriously looked into it since there are higher priority...

I read that it is acceptable for my LJ, and it still made me tense as heck the first few times I did it. @TheBigDirty : when did you last change your t-case and differential fluids? Also, have you tried shifting into 4H while driving in mph? It works fine for us south of the border.

I got original side mirrors with some half doors last year. I’ll paint them as well. There’s a boot over the post that holds the mirror which is half decayed. I saw on another forum a recommendation to use disc brake caliper pin boots, so I’ll search for something the right diameter.

The wire screen on the hood vent was lightly rusted; I scrubbed it clean and gave it a coat of the Rustoleum Rust Converter. Left a nice black finish.

SEM Trim Black has been a great product. No primer needed, coats well and is durable. IMO definitely worth paying more than the Rustoleum Krylon cans. Light sanding, rinse, wipe with rubbing alcohol, spray. Let cure for 48 hours.

In an effort to improve the appearance of the YJ, I’m painting some exterior parts with faded/ damaged finishes. Just want to share some photos and suggestions. Wiper arms, hood vent cover:

How much $ he put into it is irrelevant; what matters is how much time and money you’ll have to put into it to make it a decent operable vehicle. A lot of his ‘upgrades’ could very well be junk worse than stock. You’ve been warned about the electrical issues; don’t underestimate the...

I didn’t realize it was on 215’s! Smaller tires and regearing won’t help that. Maybe the motor has issues? Loss of compression? Timing is off? Clogged fuel filter? Clogged catalytic converter?

Have you regeared the differentials?

I recently removed all my body mounts and had one bolt that sheared off. I tried heat, liquid wrench, large vise grips; I jacked up that side of the body to get to better access to the bolt. Nothing worked. I ended up cutting it as short as possible with a Dremel then drilling it out. See...

I’ve never heard of a dipstick on a Jeep transmission. Have you looked into one if these? (Sorry , I couldn’t resist.)

I found that old thread you mentioned; linked here for any future fellow travelers. The diode looks like a 3inch piece of black heat shrink with dk hrn going in and blk wire going out. It is in the loom behind the instrument/gauge cluster above the heater control, so anyone needing to access...

I was confused because I didn’t see anything that would open that AC dk green wire from going all the way to ground. I guess the diode does that, or at least resists the current? I don’t even know what a diode does, but when I saw it in the harness I wondered if that was the problem. I think...

Update: I've solved the short, sort of. I traced the green wires that both use the lug at the back of the #12 fuse; the '95 4.0 L wiring diagram looks a bit different than the one above, but they start the same out the back of the fuse. The short is definitely on the A/C side of the circuit...

I think I need to update my profile pic since the wheels are on...

I’m removing the dash tracking down a shorted wire, and I want to disassemble most of the steering column while I’m at it to clean/replace the stalks/switches. The FSM says discard the snap ring when removing the lock plate, but it isn’t clear how I get another to replace it. Can it be reused?