Search results

It’s not an alien fastener, it’s just a 12 point. Don’t know why they use them, they aren’t super common but tools for them are readily available.

Well, I have some news. The new driveshaft by far has the best outcome on vibrations out of the 3 shafts I’ve tried. The Tom Wood shaft I had the least fortunate luck with, and it had the leak issue. I ended up sending it back. Thankfully they have a good return policy and I got a full refund...

I’m not sure I really understand the problem, but based on what I think is going on, I don’t think I ever would have expected the torque stud to make any difference. I would suspect something more in the u-joints or rear axle relating to change of direction. Assuming you’re talking about once...

It's not posted here but I have a 1989 factory service manual I could share somehow. It's a large file. The 87-90 parts catalog would also be useful to you if you ever need to try to find a factory part. That one is posted in the original post.

They bushings are always loose where they grab the transmission mount plate. Think of it as a limiting strap. It only kicks in if the drivetrain torques over enough, and then the stud limits that. The stud is tight on the skid plate though.

If the seal fit the CAD seal spot, then you got the right seal. The seal for a 1 piece axle is way different and wouldn’t have worked at all. It will leak slowly. I doubt it leaked out enough yet. Mine was still doing it after a week or so. then I saw the statement in the FSM and so I pulled...

Filled it too high if you filled to the fill hole. If you did, suck some fluid back out. The spec is 1/2” below the fill hole. I did the same on a fully rebuilt axle with brand new Spicer seals and it also leaked. Sucked out fluid to the right amount and it stopped.

If yall are having issues leaning, I would suspect either the seat frame is broken and/or the ratchet mechanism is broken. Whatever is wrong is most likely inside the seat.

It’s been done before but it comes with some caveats and it hasn’t produced overwhelmingly positive results from the people who have swapped. If I wanted an auto I’d personally just go with the 3 speed.

Odd. They must not have realized yet that gear lube works better as a high speed tapered axle bearing grease. Once they switched to the 90 axle with roller bearings it went to gear lube. And then future D44’s and such that had bolt in axles still used gear lube. F’n Jeep.

I finally found a manual that explains how this works. The 1987-1989 D35 with bolt in axles uses greased bearings, not oiled. So there is an inner oil seal, and then all of the axle parts (axle retainer place, outer seal, wheel bearing/race, bearing retainer collar). For whatever reason, Jeep...

I received the factory '94-'95 6 cylinder manual driveshaft. Looks good, as the listing showed. I put it together with the new u-joints (Spicer 5-1310x & 5-1330x) and used my 2-3-12411x Spicer slip yoke from the '87-'93 factory driveshaft. It was a bit of a bitch, and the 1330 joint ended...

I experienced similar when I did the lift on my new-to-me YJ back in January 2014. The old shocks did not extend. The ride was terrible, which made me think all YJs ride terribly. Then the shocks provided with the lift maintained that thought. It wasn't until I tried OME suspension that I...

What all did they weld? Pinion angles can get pretty bad but I’d think they’d have to be really bad to be causing any clicking…I’d assume any clicking would be yoke ears clashing with every revolution. Some pics under the Jeep might help.

Great news: exhaust problems are now solved. With the cat slot being fully utilized (cat slid as far forward as it will go), I have plenty of clearance for the tailpipe to slide back as heat expansion occurs. Seems like maybe 1/4” is needed, and now I have about an inch. Cold: Warm...

Yeah…you got it. Gotta hammer out the caged bearings. 1995 and up t-cases came stock without the bearings and the SYE was modeled after that. Welcome aboard.

Long post of progress updates. Starting to make some more headway, but naturally, with a few hangups along the way. I still have some driveline vibes, but I haven’t had a chance to really weigh down the rear yet. I have no rear bumper at the moment, and I haven’t even filled the tank up yet...

I forgot to mention that I tried the Bestop Trailmax II Pro and in mine I found them to be terrible like the others. Could be my height and leg vs torso length (5’ 11 30” inseam), or it could be the 91-95 driver’s seat bracket, or it could just be my preference. There were two problems with them...

My problem was the floor hump. I forget the details but I got mine as good as I felt like I could get it, and still don’t like it. Oh well, it works, just bothers me a bit looking at it.

Does yours lean at all? Mine ended up leaning right from my install 12 years ago. Being so close to the left seat made it not really sit right on the tub. Tried to redo the holes when I got the radio version a few years ago and I still couldn’t really get it any better than I have it.