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My Jeep came without anything covering the front crossmember, so I thought I get the 'Jeep' logo cover. In the factory parts catalog, there appears to be a 'support' underneath the plastic cover. does anyone know if this is important or what it does?

Mine is Spice. The pristine leather on the spokes makes the rest look bad.

The quote is $399. Pretty steep, but eventually I’ll probably have to do it. And if it lasts 15 years it’s worth it

There are a ton of steering wheel photos on their site so it appears they have experience. Judging from the pictures, the work looks very good; maybe not OEM factory-good, but close.

That looks pretty cool. All of that can run off the single cig lighter circuit I suppose?

I found this place in north Texas. Looks like they do good work and specialize it steering wheels. It’s easy to ship a wheel, so Ill have to get a quote. https://craftcustoms.com/photos-by-make-model/jeep-steering-wheel-and-dash-trim/

I removed the ashtray last year to work on the HVAC and haven’t put it back on partly because it’s ugly. I do sort of want the 12v power supply in it however. Has anyone modified the existing ashtray with USB power ports? I don’t have a need for switches.

@machoheadgames I saw this photo on your old build thread; where did you get a new OEM leather steering wheel? My spice leather is pretty worn, and I thought I’d have to go to a custom upholstery shop.

I helped my son-in-law replace that same carrier bearing a few weeks ago on his ‘06 Taco. He did most of the work (thankfully) but it was a great learning experience for both of us. He replaced one or two of the U joints while it was off. Maybe $80 in parts and vibes were cured.

it’s so disappointing that you can’t trust the average auto mechanic to do almost anything. I had bad front end wandering on a ford van and paid for shocks at one shop; they didn’t help at all. The dealer later diagnosed a wheel bearing that resolved the problem. On a civic several years...

Someone has to do it https://wrangleryjforum.com/threads/jeep-wrangler-yj-factory-service-manuals-fsm-and-part-catalogs.27000/

Update: I isolated the issue, although I don’t have a solution yet. There’s a metal plate that slides rearward when the lock rods are moved to unlock; mine are moving 90% of the way but not enough to actually unlock. When I pried that metal plate a little further, it pops into place and the...

When I purchased it, mine had 33’s on 2.5” ( 4.0L AX-15) on 3.55 gears. It was quite bad. Pretty much awful. Much better on 30” tires. If you really want 33’s, yes I think you should regear. If your heart is not set on 33’s, or you’re not willing to put $Thousands into the jeep, then get...

I don’t suppose the OP is still around, but I have a similar problem. I’ve had the door panels off both full doors several times in the past few months; last time was about a month ago when I replaced the interior and exterior handles. Got the rods connected, sprayed the latch mechanism with...

x2 to this. Also consider going to soft uppers.

My 2¢: I have an LJ with a lift on 33x12’s and it’s awesome. It’s my mountain trail machine. But when I got the YJ I wanted a fun street machine, so it is pretty different from the LJ. It is on the 2.5” lift it came with, and I gave it 30x9.5 Yokohama Geolandars, which have a mild AT tread...

Dos you put an angle finger on it? It looks steep to me too. Maybe someone did a tummy tuck when you weren’t looking? Seriously though, is your driveshaft stock length? It looks like it’s pulling out your slip yoke more than Sunsport’s.

I was able to get fairly good access to those driver side bolts by removing the speedometer. Didn’t have to remove the dash although the speaker magnet grabbed the wrench a dozen times and the nuts half that.

There are two pumps; neither run. I know which is front and rear based on the wire colors. The tubing could be switched but I don’t think that matters at this point since neither pump energizes. I suspect the Intermittent module, since everything else in the wiring diagram works, and that...