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I decided to cut off the exterior handle bracket and shim a thin steel bar to add about 2mm of depth. Again, not pretty but I think it will hold and the handle now sits flush with the exterior door skin.

Since little welding jobs are piling up on this Jeep, I decided to get a beginner welder. Found a used Lincoln on Craigslist and started learning. There was a crack at the bottom of the spare tire carrier, so I started with that. Not pretty, but no worse than it was.

Yes I think that is normal for many American cars of that vintage. The next step is that the key won’t be needed at all.

Everything seems to fit well in the new tailgate, except the recess for the outer handle is too shallow, and makes the handle stick out a couple mm. Any ideas on how to make it a little deeper? I don’t think I can pound it inwards and still retain the shape and screw alignment. I though maybe...

Is that the turn key on-off three times method? I have done that on my LJ but didn’t know it worked on YJs. I thought I would have to get an OBD1 reader if it ever threw codes.

I’m going to test fit everything before I paint it because the basecoat I had mixed was very expensive and I don’t want to waste it. Visually all the holes line up, except there are no holes for the brake light wiring. Not for the bracket that holds the contacts, nor the passage through the...

As discussed in another thread, I decided to replace my tailgate, which was damaged prior to my acquisition of the jeep. I got it from Amazon for less than the Quadratec/RockAuto options, and the reviews were satisfactory. It has some sharp edges/projections at each corner where the skin is...

IIRC, you can’t put the cables in the wrong place because each plastic anchor has a slightly different pattern of its tabs. The warm/cool cable goes on the right side of the duct box, the floor/defrost cable goes in the center.

I tackled this last fall. See my build thread for some pictures starting at post #112. It’s not hard to remove the glove box and the instrument cluster and the radio so I did that, but I did not remove the metal dash frame. https://wrangleryjforum.com/threads/95-sahara-1st-yj.28646/page-6

I’d bet you still have air in the lines somewhere. Have the pedal person push vigorously, and your caliper person tap the caliper with a wrench to jar loose bubbles that can be stuck inside the caliper.

Glad to hear there is a new booster available. My 2006 LJ has never been able to hold vacuum more than a couple minutes after the engine shuts off. The check valve is fine so I assumed it was the booster. Not noticeable once driving, but having no boost when starting the engine on a steep shelf...

See the post above; try removing and cleaning the ground wire.

I solved the problem, or at least it seems that way for now. Since I read everywhere that most electrical issues are from bad grounds, I looked in the FSM for the ground for the washer motor circuit. It is inside the engine compartment right above the left headlight. It didn’t look corroded...

Ah too bad. I’m in the market for spice GLWS!

Spice color or black?

I came across this site; the color scheme is off but I imagine that could be modified. https://www.brandsoftheworld.com/logo/jeep-sahara-0

My other idea was to use the button and circuit for the rear window washer pump and just connect that hose to the front nozzles, since I don’t have a hardtop. That pump currently is non-functional as well but it might be a lot easier to resurrect.

I was able to troubleshoot the issue a bit this past weekend. After cleaning some connections I actually got the washer fluid to spray a few times, but it soon stopped again. I followed the instructions in the FSM which tests the three parts of the circuit separately. I was able to get...

I’m going to buy a new gate, paint it and transfer all the hardware, and add the snubbers. Hopefully then I can tighten the hinge bolts enough that the latch / striker stay aligned for the long term.