Can a Dana 30 handle a locker?

Bionicman

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I've got a 1995 yj with a stock dana 30 front axle. I was thinking about installing a ARB locker as I have gotten stuck several times in scenarios where a locker would have helped. My question is would a Dana 30 be up to the additional force? I do mud and rocks. Am running 31's and am not planning to go any larger for the foreseeable future.
 
I have a sparten autolocker in mine.
I've been up in the air about installing a Spartan Locker in my 89 YJ dana 30. It is an easy and inexpensive option. I've already installed a True Trac in the rear Dana 35. Since you have a Spartan in yours can you tell me if you've had any issues other than just clicking noises which are normal or any other problems in handling especially on slick roads? Thanks in advance.
 
BLUF (Bottom Line Up Front): If I had it to do over I would have saved for a selectable locker like the eaton elocker for the front.

I have a True Track limited slip in the rear as well. I don't have any clicking in 2wd as the CAD disconnects the passenger side wheel. I did not consider the fact that the locker would spin the front driveshaft in 2wd when I installed it. I had considerable vibrations above 45 MPH at first due to the factory front driveshaft not being balanced. After spending an additional $250 on a standard shaft from Tom Woods I can drive at 70 MPH with slight but noticeable vibration. I also now have to remove the front shaft to flat tow as the YJ NP231 transfer case outputs are connected with the transfer case in neutral. I can solve this by adding locking hubs or switching to a selectable locker that is open when not engaged. There are a few out there that are limited slip when disengaged but they would still spin the driveshaft when towed. I don't mind the rear spinning as it drives the oil slinger in the NP231. I also occasionally find it easier to drop out of 4wd on the trail for a tight turn but I havenot found that I have to go to 2wd. An elocker would solve this as well as I could just unlock to an open differential.

Locking hubs are $1500 plus $500 to have installed and an elocker is $900 plus $450 for the install.

If you are not regearing and don't plan on flat towing you can install a lunch box locker without having to setup your ring and pinion so that option might make sense.

Traction with my setup is wonderful. Now I can get fantastically stuck.

At some point I'll switch to a front elocker but that will most likly be a few years down the road.

Hope that helps.
 
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Hi ya’ll I just picked up a 92 w a ARB front, stock D30. While I haven’t had the chance to use it yet, the previous two owners apparently didn’t have an issue and they ran 33’s. I am planning on either beefing up the 30 w truss and inner sleeves or upgrade to a D40...one day. But first, I want to ditch that CAD front axle set up. I’ve read about the cable lock upgrade but has anyone just replaced the two piece axle with a one piece? What are the steps/components for that?
Any guidance is apriciated!
 
Hi ya’ll I just picked up a 92 w a ARB front, stock D30. While I haven’t had the chance to use it yet, the previous two owners apparently didn’t have an issue and they ran 33’s. I am planning on either beefing up the 30 w truss and inner sleeves or upgrade to a D40...one day. But first, I want to ditch that CAD front axle set up. I’ve read about the cable lock upgrade but has anyone just replaced the two piece axle with a one piece? What are the steps/components for that?
Any guidance is apriciated!
I wouldn’t bother with a truss or inner sleeving. Inner sleeves make almost no difference in strength. Outer sleeves would make a considerable difference but the YJ axles have so much bracketry on them that it will be near impossible to do outer sleeves anyways. Typically if you keep it on 33’s you won’t get yourself into any difficult enough wheeling that you bend the tubes anyways.

No such thing as a D40, guessing you meant D44.

There are many write-ups about the one piece axle shaft swap, I personally did that one. I pulled shafts out of a TJ but they can be taken from an XJ as well. I’d do a search for write ups, it takes a while to retype all that mess every time. I did a somewhat detailed post on my build thread including making the light still function. Other forums have write ups on it as well. Mine lacks much pictures.
 
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I am planning on either beefing up the 30 w truss and inner sleeves or upgrade to a D40...one day.
Ditch the CAD and use a TJ or XJ one piece shaft like @machoheadgames mentioned.

A truss is good but some are bigger than they need to be. Some can even limit uptravel, which then requires increasing bump. So pay attention there.

As for strength, Chromo shafts from Dutchman or Revolution would be plenty of beef for 33’s and the ARB locker.

Inner sleeves do nothing. Outer sleeves is what increases strength. Chromos and a truss should be plenty.
 
I wouldn’t bother with a truss or inner sleeving. Inner sleeves make almost no difference in strength. Outer sleeves would make a considerable difference but the YJ axles have so much bracketry on them that it will be near impossible to do outer sleeves anyways. Typically if you keep it on 33’s you won’t get yourself into any difficult enough wheeling that you bend the tubes anyways.

No such thing as a D40, guessing you meant D44.

There are many write-ups about the one piece axle shaft swap, I personally did that one. I pulled shafts out of a TJ but they can be taken from an XJ as well. I’d do a search for write ups, it takes a while to retype all that mess every time. I did a somewhat detailed post on my build thread including making the light still function. Other forums have write ups on it as well. Mine lacks much pictures.
Thanks Macho, yep I did mean the D44, I’ll search those threads.
 
I have Yukon Chromo shafts in my D30 with an Ox Locker, currently on 33's. It's been working fine for me. If you plan on staying 31's, I think you'll be fine. Definitely consider ditching the CAD and going 1-piece on the passenger side.
 
I have 2007 JK axles under my YJ. The front is Dana 30 with Aussie locker. It is great an only engages when in 4WD. Went with OX locker for the rear D44 and love being locked and low on the trails!
 
I'm going for 30 spline chromos with an OX in my D30HP.
With the High Pinion 30 the R&P isn't running on the coast side of the gear.
Watched a lot guys with V8s in their older CJs break the low pinion 30s, what did they break? Ring and Pinions.
Think of the pinion as a Lake, think of the teeth on the ring gear as a curved Dam, the Coast side of a dam is the dry side.
 
My dana 30 is High pinion and handles the Aussie locker fine. I don't know why you would want a selectable locker for the front axle? The Aussie locker only engages when in 4WD, so if your not sending power to the front axle it is still and open differential. I love my Ox locker in the rear but don't see the advantage or expense for the front.
 
My dana 30 is High pinion and handles the Aussie locker fine. I don't know why you would want a selectable locker for the front axle? The Aussie locker only engages when in 4WD, so if your not sending power to the front axle it is still and open differential. I love my Ox locker in the rear but don't see the advantage or expense for the front.
The only real reason would be where you live and if you need 4WD for bad weather like snow/ice. In those conditions you may want to use 4WD but with an auto/lunchbox locker up front, you sort of lose that option because lockers are bad in those conditions.
 
BTW: I'm still running the 4.2 with automatic trans. Maybe I'm not sending enough power to detonate the Aussie! But I do give it a run for the money on the Daniel trail in Uwharrie National Forest in NC. HooYah!
 
I don't know why you wouldn't want a selectable.
Ever try driving home on the front with a automatic locker?
Since I'm eliminating the CAD, I want an open diff in that situation.
Ya, lockers in slippery conditions are handful at best, dangerous at worst.
 
If I had it to do over again I would have spent the extra money and gone with a selectable locker over the lunchbox that I have. I hate having to go into 2wd on the trail for tight turns.
 
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Amen, brother! Had a lunchbox in the front of my old J20, same thing.
Later put in a Detroit No-Spin and couldn't even tell it was there, except that it worked.
But ratchets are violent so now I'm going selectable.