Transfer case rebuild

[Atenchion21]

Hey there everyone. Got a question for some tools I'll need for the rebuild on a np231-J transfer case. I'm planning to reuse some of the gears that look just fine. My output shaft is the problem. And clearly the chain. While I have the thing ripped apart I'm planning to get a new seal kit with a chain, as well of course the obvious cheered in half output shaft, and lastly a new end cone since...it cheered the thing off and left the bolts intact with the ears of it connected still. Yeah, lol that was a wild sound scared the c*** outta me.

The tools i have at my disposal:
Snap ring pliers
Bearing presser

I do not have anything gear related, I read somewhere that you needed something to separate the gears off of the output shaft. But can't refind that post thus, why I'm making my own.

Any ideas on a decently priced rebuild kit and output shaft? I've seen a couple on Amazon for a seal kit with chain, and a few different output shafts.

 

[machoheadgames]

You only really need lock ring pliers to do anything on the t-case. Some seal/race drivers certainly help.

If you snapped the output shaft, you probably need to look at an SYE and double cardan rear driveshaft conversion. The rear output shaft is not weak and usually breaks when subjected to a lot of angular load, which happens with suspension lift and keeping the stock driveshaft. In other words, if you broke one, you'll break another.

Gears on the output shaft are nothing special, they are just slid onto their splines and held in place with a snap ring. The 4x4 sprocket has caged needle bearings in it on all years except late 94 and 95. If you get a late model YJ output shaft you will need to remove the caged bearings and the sprocket will then just spin on the output shaft itself.

 

[Atenchion21]

You only really need lock ring pliers to do anything on the t-case. Some seal/race drivers certainly help.

If you snapped the output shaft, you probably need to look at an SYE and double cardan rear driveshaft conversion. The rear output shaft is not weak and usually breaks when subjected to a lot of angular load, which happens with suspension lift and keeping the stock driveshaft. In other words, if you broke one, you'll break another.

Gears on the output shaft are nothing special, they are just slid onto their splines and held in place with a snap ring. The 4x4 sprocket has caged needle bearings in it on all years except late 94 and 95. If you get a late model YJ output shaft you will need to remove the caged bearings and the sprocket will then just spin on the output shaft itself.

Sorry for asking this I'm not good at acronyms, SYE means slip yolk eliminator, correct? And I'm not sure what this "double cardan rear driveshaft conversion" exactly is. I have to get a new driveline anyway...put holes in it when it flung off im telling ya this thing blew up in the best way it could lol. I believe it has a two inch lift on it. Not exactly sure how to figure that out. I haven't gotten to mess with this part of the jeep yet, so this is my first deep dive into this.

 

[machoheadgames]

Correct, slip yoke eliminator.

The factory transfer case has a 2 joint standard shaft with a slip yoke at the transfer case. This is great in stock form but once you put lift on there you increase the u-joint angles significantly and it starts to tug downward on the transfer case. Eventually with enough miles and force on that design with the angle from lift, the shaft breaks off a large chunk which is what happened here.

Slip yoke eliminator changes the output design of the transfer case to use a fixed mount. The double cardan driveshaft is a 3 u-joint driveshaft with the slip built into the middle of the driveshaft. An SYE and double cardan shaft go hand in hand for the rear of a YJ.