Grinding, like gears but intermittent. No real rhyme or reason, different speeds, different gears, sometimes it does it, sometimes it doesn't. I have had it do it in 4x4 also but usually in 2wd. Shifts fine, 4wd works fine... Been driving me nuts for a while. I just bought a new chain for my t-case but I don't think that's it. I will tear into it but everything I read they only grind in 4x4 if the chain is stretched. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
T case noise, grinds intermittent, 2wd
- Thread starter RichC
- Start date
I've had this experience with a J20, turned out to be the t-case had run dry and the mode fork had worn down.
It's spring loaded to to go into 4x4, that's what it's sounding like it's trying to do.
I had to replace the fork and then correct the leak.
You're probably going have to pull the t-case and take it apart to fix it.
It's spring loaded to to go into 4x4, that's what it's sounding like it's trying to do.
I had to replace the fork and then correct the leak.
You're probably going have to pull the t-case and take it apart to fix it.
I was planning on pulling the t-case today. My original thought was that the shift lever was out of adjustment so that fits. I bought a new chain for it so I figured if nothing else I could replace that while I'm there. The only down side is that I'll have to wait for parts to put it back together. It's been driving me nuts so hopefully that's it.
Flyer58
YJ Enthusiast
The grinding in 4x is puzzling, but if the t-case ran dry, the range fork may also be damaged.
Even though it is not spring loaded it may be allowing enough movement to just try to get into low range.
New chain certainly isn't going to hurt anything, since it will be apart anyway.
I hope you find it, all I can do is relate what I've experienced.
I got lucky with the J20 and didn't have to pull the case, but those old trucks didn't have skid pans.
Best of luck!
Even though it is not spring loaded it may be allowing enough movement to just try to get into low range.
New chain certainly isn't going to hurt anything, since it will be apart anyway.
I hope you find it, all I can do is relate what I've experienced.
I got lucky with the J20 and didn't have to pull the case, but those old trucks didn't have skid pans.
Best of luck!
Well I didn't have to go too deep. Last guy got overzealous installing the bearing in the speedometer housing and broke the flang off on the inside. Looks like I need a new speedometer housing... I went ahead and replaced the chain, filter and cleaned stuff up while I was in there.
I found a used case on ebay for $38 delivered, should be here end of the week. Of course if I knew what it was I wouldn't have gone as deep, but this way I replaced the chain and cleaned up some other stuff. Next weekend it should be back on the road! This is my first Jeep and I really like it. I always wanted one but with my work commute in the past it just wouldn't work out.
Usually when a bearing is replaced, the housing has to be removed in order to remove the old one, would think they'd noticed it.
When you put it back together check the length of the rear drive line and make sure it has at least an inch of travel in the slip.
That almost looks like a DL bottomed out.
Another possibility is the DL may be at the wrong angle.
Symptoms of that are a grinding noise above certain speeds in a "float" condition on the throttle.
It looks like you have a lift, and YJs' are very sensitive to that if not done right.
Dunno if it could do that that kind of damage to the housing though.
If you need info on the DL and angles you can find very good advice at Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shaft.
https://4xshaft.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjw...Ll6xtM6aCjvVyPHQl9IL6ADH4DuaGcshoC0ZQQAvD_BwE
When you put it back together check the length of the rear drive line and make sure it has at least an inch of travel in the slip.
That almost looks like a DL bottomed out.
Another possibility is the DL may be at the wrong angle.
Symptoms of that are a grinding noise above certain speeds in a "float" condition on the throttle.
It looks like you have a lift, and YJs' are very sensitive to that if not done right.
Dunno if it could do that that kind of damage to the housing though.
If you need info on the DL and angles you can find very good advice at Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shaft.
https://4xshaft.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjw...Ll6xtM6aCjvVyPHQl9IL6ADH4DuaGcshoC0ZQQAvD_BwE
I'm not sure if it has a lift or not, it doesn't look like it but it was this way when I bought it, it was a basket case and the pic is from when I was trailering it home and I don't really see anything that looks out of place like a lift. Regardless I didn't like the driveline angle and I've lowered the T-case about an inch to even things out. There's still at least 2 inches of travel for the slip yoke, I was actually nervous for a while that the driveshaft was a little short. They would have really had to be romping on it to break that housing the way it is but I'm sure it's possible. Thank's for the info though, every bit of info is appreciated, I'd really like someone that really knows Jeeps to take a look at this thing and tell me what's been changed. It's my first Jeep so I'm kinda flying blind. I'm an old gear head so I'm not totally clueless but I just don't know much about Jeeps. Thank you again!
Your welcome.
If you didn't like the DL angle, it probably is lifted.
Your's sounds like mine after I did a 2-1/2" spring lift, given your concern about DL length, I saw the same thing.
I can't tell from the pic, but OEM springs are pretty much flat.
Lift springs usually have angle shims between the the rear axle and the springs, OEM does not have them.
If you still have the factory slip yoke, those need to be gone and the shaft probably needs to be lengthened.
I kept the shims, did a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) and a CV drive shaft to fix mine.
If you want to go that way, now is the time while the t-case is out, but it will be about $700, most of that being the shaft.
This is a very common problem with YJs' and that is the usual fix, if that's the problem.
I'm not new to Jeeps, but I'm just used to very, very old ones.
So the YJ platform IS new to me and I have to admit, mine has been a can of worms.
If you didn't like the DL angle, it probably is lifted.
Your's sounds like mine after I did a 2-1/2" spring lift, given your concern about DL length, I saw the same thing.
I can't tell from the pic, but OEM springs are pretty much flat.
Lift springs usually have angle shims between the the rear axle and the springs, OEM does not have them.
If you still have the factory slip yoke, those need to be gone and the shaft probably needs to be lengthened.
I kept the shims, did a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) and a CV drive shaft to fix mine.
If you want to go that way, now is the time while the t-case is out, but it will be about $700, most of that being the shaft.
This is a very common problem with YJs' and that is the usual fix, if that's the problem.
I'm not new to Jeeps, but I'm just used to very, very old ones.
So the YJ platform IS new to me and I have to admit, mine has been a can of worms.
I agree with jeepJoe 43 on the lift likelihood. If the pic on your avatar is how it sits,tire size and clearance, Im pretty sure it has a 2.5" lift like my 91. DS angles are sensitive as noted, however another factor is difference in angles at either end of the DS. IIRC 2 degrees is enough to make problems and this would come from not installing the rear diff angle shims or the incorrect ones.
Yup, that is exactly what I'm talking about.
The shims that come with the lift springs are for those running CVs' and pitch the axle pinion to match the DL angle for the lift.
As it should be for those, I would later learn.
They don't work with OEM slip yokes. Lessons learned...
I replaced the broken housing the other night. Everything seems fine now, drives, shifts and just acts better in general. Noise is gone. I guess time will tell if it breaks again but I'm feeling pretty good with the drive line angle, I would like to install the shims on the rear diff. I'll look into getting them but it has pretty good manners at this point. While I was in there I replaced the chain, resealed and cleaned everything up really good. It seems happy when I'm driving it now, no weird noises or anything strange happening. That's nice to say after spending a good six months putting stuff I didn't take apart back together. I just keep fixing stuff and it just keeps getting better! Like I said this is my first Jeep so it's all new ground to me. Only bummer now is Winter will be showing up here in Iowa soon so I'm gonna have to put the top back on, that sucks. Thanks for the help everyone.
4angrysqurrils91
New Member
Haven’t experienced this with the Jeep but my 03 Chevy 2500 has the NP261 t-case ( just a heavier duty version of the 231)and was doing the same,
there is one little set of synchronizers in it that allow the shift on the fly, and when I replaced the chain, I also replaced the sync. and it went away
there is one little set of synchronizers in it that allow the shift on the fly, and when I replaced the chain, I also replaced the sync. and it went away