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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ General Discussion
Spring Lift and New Shocks Question
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<blockquote data-quote="machoheadgames" data-source="post: 430810" data-attributes="member: 18789"><p>I’ve had poly bushings in some locations for 8 years…never a squeak. Poly on all locations for 5 years, also no squeak. I have nothing against rubber, the factory stuff was Clevite brand and they were excellent. In fact my frame bushings were not even bad at all when I pulled them to put in poly. However, I do have big problems with RC rubber, which falls apart. And the worst part is you will not know unless you have handling issues and finally take it apart to look. The shackles will cover up any visible problems. I have seen countless folks with bushing issues, it’s like the number one RC complaint. Lots of people say they don’t have problems, but lots of those also are not aware they have problems. You could always skip them for now and do it later if you want, up to you. Mine were dead in about a year, I changed them at 2. I could feel the rear axle walking side to side on tight turns. </p><p></p><p>the pitman arm and track bar bracket go hand in hand. When you raise the track bar at the axle, you need to use the drop pitman arm to the same drop amount as the track bar was lifted up. This will keep them parallel which is what needs to be the case for best handling. this will also keep you closest to the stock quality steering feel, which is a lot better than typical lifted feel. If you don’t do the pitman arm, you’re better off without the track bar at all or else the track bar will be fighting your steering on bumps, otherwise known as “bump steer”, because the two linkages will not be parallel and will follow different arcs. I don’t understand why they want $47 to install the track bar bracket, as they would have to disconnect the track bar from the axle regardless during the lift process. The only difference is tightening one bolt for the bracket, then you bolt the bar to the bracket rather than the axle mount. $47 for one bolt is a lot, but whatever I guess.</p><p></p><p>holy cow, the transfer case drop install is absurd. The 2.5° pinion shims go hand in hand with the tcase drop. You don’t really want one without the other. Do you have a Jack you could use? If I were you I’d tell them to install the shims, but then order the tcase drop myself and install it myself. It’s really quite easy to do. I certainly would not pay their labor. Their labor is probably planning for rusted out bolts that break in the frame, which means way more work. If I were you, I’d remove each transfer case skid plate bolt one by one (remove all the way, then reinstall with anti seize and torque to 50). If you can remove each one without them getting stuck, and have a Jack, I’d 100% say do the tcase drop yourself. Otherwise, tell them to remove the shims off the springs, install the springs, and leave the transfer case alone at ride height.</p><p></p><p>It sucks that you’re at the mercy of shop labor, which really makes doing all this a lot more unreasonable feeling. Their prices aren’t crazy for the most part but it certainly adds up.</p><p></p><p>I would skip the steering stabilizer completely, a cheapo one from Monroe on Amazon is perfect for $25 and you can do that yourself. Your existing one is probably not even bad as is and the rough country is nothing special, I’d ditch that to use the money for something else from the list. In most cases, the fancy brand steering dampers are actually repainted Monroes.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="machoheadgames, post: 430810, member: 18789"] I’ve had poly bushings in some locations for 8 years…never a squeak. Poly on all locations for 5 years, also no squeak. I have nothing against rubber, the factory stuff was Clevite brand and they were excellent. In fact my frame bushings were not even bad at all when I pulled them to put in poly. However, I do have big problems with RC rubber, which falls apart. And the worst part is you will not know unless you have handling issues and finally take it apart to look. The shackles will cover up any visible problems. I have seen countless folks with bushing issues, it’s like the number one RC complaint. Lots of people say they don’t have problems, but lots of those also are not aware they have problems. You could always skip them for now and do it later if you want, up to you. Mine were dead in about a year, I changed them at 2. I could feel the rear axle walking side to side on tight turns. the pitman arm and track bar bracket go hand in hand. When you raise the track bar at the axle, you need to use the drop pitman arm to the same drop amount as the track bar was lifted up. This will keep them parallel which is what needs to be the case for best handling. this will also keep you closest to the stock quality steering feel, which is a lot better than typical lifted feel. If you don’t do the pitman arm, you’re better off without the track bar at all or else the track bar will be fighting your steering on bumps, otherwise known as “bump steer”, because the two linkages will not be parallel and will follow different arcs. I don’t understand why they want $47 to install the track bar bracket, as they would have to disconnect the track bar from the axle regardless during the lift process. The only difference is tightening one bolt for the bracket, then you bolt the bar to the bracket rather than the axle mount. $47 for one bolt is a lot, but whatever I guess. holy cow, the transfer case drop install is absurd. The 2.5° pinion shims go hand in hand with the tcase drop. You don’t really want one without the other. Do you have a Jack you could use? If I were you I’d tell them to install the shims, but then order the tcase drop myself and install it myself. It’s really quite easy to do. I certainly would not pay their labor. Their labor is probably planning for rusted out bolts that break in the frame, which means way more work. If I were you, I’d remove each transfer case skid plate bolt one by one (remove all the way, then reinstall with anti seize and torque to 50). If you can remove each one without them getting stuck, and have a Jack, I’d 100% say do the tcase drop yourself. Otherwise, tell them to remove the shims off the springs, install the springs, and leave the transfer case alone at ride height. It sucks that you’re at the mercy of shop labor, which really makes doing all this a lot more unreasonable feeling. Their prices aren’t crazy for the most part but it certainly adds up. I would skip the steering stabilizer completely, a cheapo one from Monroe on Amazon is perfect for $25 and you can do that yourself. Your existing one is probably not even bad as is and the rough country is nothing special, I’d ditch that to use the money for something else from the list. In most cases, the fancy brand steering dampers are actually repainted Monroes. [/QUOTE]
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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ General Discussion
Spring Lift and New Shocks Question
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