Rough idle made worse when lights are on

jpjeep26uk

YJ Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 12, 2022
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199
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UK
Hi all, there is a 10 Yr old thread on this but I thought I'd start it again. My 1989 2.5l idle fluctuates between 800 and about 600 and sometimes when I take her out she does that at red lights and even stalled on me yesterday. It's noticeably worse when I turn my headlights on. Is that possible? Some kind of link between the headlights and the idle speed /rough running? I did 120 miles and she seems to run fine but that wobbly idle/ hesitation to move now and then is really annoying. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. (Someone mentioned running a permanent ground from the battery to the firewall? Is that safe? What gauge cable or wire should I use). The battery is fine at 13.2 withe engine switched off. Thanks all!
 
When you turn the headlights on it creates a draw on the alternator which in turn makes it harder to turn. Kinda like turning on the AC, the idle speed will drop unless its compensated for by a computer or high idle solenoid in a carbed vehicle. Make sure you have good grounds so the system is not over working to compensate.
 
When you turn the headlights on it creates a draw on the alternator which in turn makes it harder to turn. Kinda like turning on the AC, the idle speed will drop unless its compensated for by a computer or high idle solenoid in a carbed vehicle. Make sure you have good grounds so the system is not over working to compensate.
I went around the earths yesterday including making really good ones on the rear light box bolts and rewiring my headlights with better connections. It may just be me but it seems to have made a difference. She didn't chug in the first few miles like she has been and seemed to sit at a much more steady idle. May be my imagination! I'll check the manual for more earth's as I'm still learning about all this stuff. Thanks for the pointer!
 
Check the headlight plugs also. Lots of folks love to goober stuff up with grease or dielectric silicone. Great stuff until 20 years of dirt and crud collect on the tabs.
 
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Check the headlight plugs also. Lots of folks love to goober stuff up with grease or dielectric silicone. Great stuff until 20 years of dirt and crud collect on the tabs.
Yup, I stripped down the plugs and cleaned them thoroughly , very dirty so I hit it with a wire brush and got them shiny. I also took apart the dash lights and dials and did the same with switches and connections just to make certain. Tomorrow I'll tackle the front turn signals to complete the job. I did run the engine whilst I was testing conn3ctions and when I revved the engine, it revved up then dipped so low inthought it would stall but it picked up at the last seconds and stayed on. I took it out for a spirited run to test my work and yes, it sounds and runs better but every so often there is a half-baked backfire when slowing down so I don't know if that's also electrically related or a bad vacuum somewhere. Think I need a proper tech mechanic to take over before I kill it!! Haha.
 
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Yes, turning on your headlights will add increased load to the charging system/alternator, which is being turned by your engine via a belt. This increased load is increased work for the engine. If you have power steering on a 2.5L Jeep, there's even a little pressure sensor that tells your computer you are turning the wheel and will increase the engine's idle speed to compensate for the increased load of the PS pump.

Get a set of "vitals" that include battery voltage readings at rest (about 30 minutes after you shut down not right after as that will give you a false reading) during starting (if it drops below 10 volts the battery is undercharged or on it's way to battery heaven) and during running. This will give you various ideas of the health of the battery and charging system itself.

Having good dedicated grounds is never a bad idea, adding grounds won't hurt anything, it's a ground not power, now hooking your positive battery terminal to the body...........that would make for an interesting time as the firewall glowed red-hot. All the engine's sensors run on a 5 Volt reference signal. If you have old corroded battery cables, this will cause issues as the computer won't see proper values from the sensors. If you don't know how long it's been since you replaced your battery cables. Just do it. They have a finite life. I replace mine every 5 years. More than one YJ,XJ,TJ owners has chased their tails over what amounted to shitty grounds. I've had cables on used Jeeps I've bought look fine externally, but when cut apart would be a solid tube of corroded wires.
 
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It might also be worth going through and doing a thorough cleaning on your throttle body. I'm not sure what controls idle on the 2.5 TBI engines but if it gets gunked up like the MPI engines idle control circuit does you could be chasing your tail over a non existent electrical problem.
 
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I gave it a thorough cleaning quite recently as a possible solution to this issue but I'll do it again as you never know!