Rear track bar bracket broken

pnwsahara

New Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2021
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1
Location
Snohomish, WA
Hi Everyone - Im new to this forum, however I've had my 95 wrangler for about 4 years now.

After a bit of searching on here and across the web I have come to a dead end. The bracket that is welded to the rear axle tube that the track bar connects to has broken off, been repaired in the past and broken again. I would like to find a new weld on piece to replace it but can't come up with anything. I have also seen that it is not completely necessary to keep the track bar so I could just remove it and call it good but I really would like to keep things original.

Thoughts? Thanks in advance for any help with this issue!
 

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Is there any kind of suspension lift on your jeep? The trac bars didn't bind *too* much on a completely stock YJ suspension; not enough to break their mounts as long as you didn't wheel too hard. But any kind of changes to the suspension geometry are certain to make the stock trac bars bind badly as the suspension articulates. In the rear, it's usually the axle mount that eventually gives up, as you've seen. A lot of lift kits come with extender brackets designed to put them back to stock movement with the lift, but because the longer bracket just means the moment arm the bar is pushing against is greater, they can break even under mild use that wouldn't break a completely stock setup.

The bottom line is that the trac bars are tolerable (but completely unnecessary) for a totally stock pavement queen, and no good for anything with a modded suspension or that sees real suspension movement offroad. Unless your rig is completely unmolested and only street driven, my advice is to just take them off.
 
With a 2 1/2" lift, couldn't even put the rear track bar back on, tossed it.
Got the front back on, but I don't think it's going stay.
I'm used to driving a flatfender with soft, squirrely 1-1/2" wide springs and No track bars or an anti-sway.
Oh, tossed that too, been on a mission to remove anything "car" from the Jeep.
But neither is mine a daily driver.

I suspect, but I admit that don't know for sure, that the track bars were added out of side impact crash testing.
My line of thought is with them, the vehicle would skid instead of rolling.
IMHO, with 2-1/2" wide springs, there are no performance benefits from them.
 
They were added mainly because of lawyers. The CJs that came before were narrower with had a higher CG in stock form, and had a bad reputation for tumbling if you swerved to dodge a cat. In stock form with the trac bars you could be a little stupider and still be ok. My yj's got 31s and 2.5in springs, and has neither trac or sway bars. It handles just fine at all speeds up to 85, which is as fast as I've had it.
 
You are exactly right Walt, had a friend of mine die in a CJ5 swerving to miss an animal.
But that was probably because of the lack of a sway bar, it was an early-mid '70s golden eagle.
Got thrown through the windshield and crushed by the cage, he died because he didn't have his seat belt on...1/2 a mile from home.
I don't even start a vehicle without my seat belt on, any of my vehicles.
 
Track bars weren’t added to YJs because of lawyers. Lowering the YJ, widening the stance, widening the spacing between leaf springs, and adding sway bars to every YJ was because of lawyers due to CJs flipping. The front track bar was added to mask the dead spot flaw in the steering linkage. The CJs had much better steering linkage up front and really didn’t need a track bar at all. No clue why the rear was added, probably to stay consistent with the front.

As for the OP and the track bar mount breaking, I’m sure it’s probably because you have some lift. When I first lifted my Jeep 2.5”, I followed the instructions and retained both track bars. It rode horribly and the bars being connected really made the ride rough. You should definitely ditch the rear, it serves utterly no purpose. I recommend ditching the front as well, you can mostly fix any steering issues with a drop pitman arm if your lift height isn’t too tall.

The front track bar mount is on drivers side frame and the rear is on passenger. It was funny when I had a lift and both bars connected. Front axle was pulled tight to the left and rear axle was pulled tight to the right. Looked goofy.
 
I don't have sway bars or track bars and I am fine to 80 MPH on the highway. Don't think I could push the 2.5 any faster than that even if I wanted to. I have a 2.5" lift with stiff springs. Taking the track bars off vastly increased my off road performance. PO took off the sway bar.
 
Haha! 2.5 Low Output! Actually saw Decals for that on another thread here. Funny because it's so true!
Going to buy them for mine!
Mine is just a Slug with 32" bias plies.
I haven't attempted the interstate with the 32"s, I'm just not that warm and fuzzy with the ol' girl yet.
 
I have a different view of track bars and have had the SAME experience that you described... the rear axle mount point cracked thus releasing the track bar. In my case, I had the mount welded and re-enforced and had the track bar reconnected. Like you, I want to keep the Jeep as structurally stock as possible. The weld has held just fine for six years now. By the way, I have NO lift of any kind on this 1990 YJ. All of my suspension geometry is stock.

If it should fail again and it can't be re-welded, I would consider replacing the entire axle for two reasons. 1.) That axle was last installed at the factory in 1990 with no maintenance other than gearbox oil changes. It's due. 2.) I consider the rear track bar essential to the safe and prolonged operation of the vehicle.

Consider the fact that these brackets do crack and fail... that by itself tells you that there is some load being reacted by that track bar. And, while the function (or non-function) of the front and rear track bars is debated, I find that the "torsion spring" function of that bar is often ignored.

In my case, the symptom I had leading to the discovery of the broken bracket was a structural "thump" when accelerating or braking. When accelerating, the engine torque is obviously delivered to the rear wheels. Since every action has a reaction, the "forward force" transmitted to the road surface causes the entire axle to wind up, or, to rotate along the axle lateral axis. That "forward force" is carried to the Jeep primarily through the rear springs to their frame mount points. With the rear track bar "unhooked", that axle rotation is no longer damped by the Torsion Spring track bar function. The axle rotation torque is then reacted by the spring U-Bolts holding the axle to the spring and by the rear shock absorbers. The load on the rear springs is not in the conventional "up and down" or "fore and aft" direction, but in a rotation tending to push the front of the springs down and the rear of the spring up. This is normal up to point and when the U-Bolts are tight doing their job, but the track bar torsion function also dampens these forces. Everything is opposite when applying the brakes. The entire rear differential tips up and down, again not so much in the "bounce" direction, but around the axle lateral axis, placing some additional stress on the drive train universal joints. So, the thump I encountered was the result of things being more free to move and interact during acceleration and braking.

Another indication that the track bars (front and rear) are working for you and transferring loads becomes evident when removing or installing these bars. I watched a YouTube video of a guy showing how to remove his YJ front track bar, and he worked very hard to "pound out" the first of two bolts. It was TIGHT and he had to use a large punch and hammer. Like 90% of Jeep owners, he had jacked the Jeep and placed jack stands under the frame to carry the weight of the vehicle. I wrote him to point out that if he had the tires up on ramps, OR, had the jack stands under the axle, those track bar bolts would come out (and install) easily by hand. The requirement is that the weight of the vehicle be carried by the springs when working on track bars. I've done it myself when replacing the front track bar due to worn rubber ends. (You can buy an entirely new front track bar for $60 to $70 dollars). The point is, as the Jeep bounces along your chosen path, the track bars continually tighten and relax helping to regulate your suspension (and steering) geometry.

Lastly, and I hate this one, IF you are involved in a serious accident and the issue arises that the Jeep suspension had been "compromised" by intentionally removing these factory components (track bars), many insurance companies will use this data to unload their financial responsibility. This is particularly true in death or severe injury cases. It will be up to you to convince a court that track bar removal had no bearing on the event. This would not likely be an issue with most routine accidents involving minor property damage.
 
I have a different view of track bars and have had the SAME experience that you described... the rear axle mount point cracked thus releasing the track bar. In my case, I had the mount welded and re-enforced and had the track bar reconnected. Like you, I want to keep the Jeep as structurally stock as possible. The weld has held just fine for six years now. By the way, I have NO lift of any kind on this 1990 YJ. All of my suspension geometry is stock.

If it should fail again and it can't be re-welded, I would consider replacing the entire axle for two reasons. 1.) That axle was last installed at the factory in 1990 with no maintenance other than gearbox oil changes. It's due. 2.) I consider the rear track bar essential to the safe and prolonged operation of the vehicle.

Consider the fact that these brackets do crack and fail... that by itself tells you that there is some load being reacted by that track bar. And, while the function (or non-function) of the front and rear track bars is debated, I find that the "torsion spring" function of that bar is often ignored.

In my case, the symptom I had leading to the discovery of the broken bracket was a structural "thump" when accelerating or braking. When accelerating, the engine torque is obviously delivered to the rear wheels. Since every action has a reaction, the "forward force" transmitted to the road surface causes the entire axle to wind up, or, to rotate along the axle lateral axis. That "forward force" is carried to the Jeep primarily through the rear springs to their frame mount points. With the rear track bar "unhooked", that axle rotation is no longer damped by the Torsion Spring track bar function. The axle rotation torque is then reacted by the spring U-Bolts holding the axle to the spring and by the rear shock absorbers. The load on the rear springs is not in the conventional "up and down" or "fore and aft" direction, but in a rotation tending to push the front of the springs down and the rear of the spring up. This is normal up to point and when the U-Bolts are tight doing their job, but the track bar torsion function also dampens these forces. Everything is opposite when applying the brakes. The entire rear differential tips up and down, again not so much in the "bounce" direction, but around the axle lateral axis, placing some additional stress on the drive train universal joints. So, the thump I encountered was the result of things being more free to move and interact during acceleration and braking.

Another indication that the track bars (front and rear) are working for you and transferring loads becomes evident when removing or installing these bars. I watched a YouTube video of a guy showing how to remove his YJ front track bar, and he worked very hard to "pound out" the first of two bolts. It was TIGHT and he had to use a large punch and hammer. Like 90% of Jeep owners, he had jacked the Jeep and placed jack stands under the frame to carry the weight of the vehicle. I wrote him to point out that if he had the tires up on ramps, OR, had the jack stands under the axle, those track bar bolts would come out (and install) easily by hand. The requirement is that the weight of the vehicle be carried by the springs when working on track bars. I've done it myself when replacing the front track bar due to worn rubber ends. (You can buy an entirely new front track bar for $60 to $70 dollars). The point is, as the Jeep bounces along your chosen path, the track bars continually tighten and relax helping to regulate your suspension (and steering) geometry.

Lastly, and I hate this one, IF you are involved in a serious accident and the issue arises that the Jeep suspension had been "compromised" by intentionally removing these factory components (track bars), many insurance companies will use this data to unload their financial responsibility. This is particularly true in death or severe injury cases. It will be up to you to convince a court that track bar removal had no bearing on the event. This would not likely be an issue with most routine accidents involving minor property damage.
The front track bar I see some merit to keeping, the rear I absolutely do not see any reasons to.

The fact that the mounts break doesn’t really say anything, other than something fought something else and one broke as a result. It is not natural for leaf springs to move in the arc that a track bar requires. Like you said, axle has been there since 1990. That is a lot of years of suspension attempting to move, and being almost completely halted by the track bar. It’s not really any different than throwing the transfer case in 4WD and driving it that way until something breaks. Something is bound to break from all the binding, just give it

As for the axle replacement if the mount breaks, you’re either going to be buying another 26-35 year old axle from a YJ, or you’ll be buying an aftermarket custom axle which won’t have a track bar mount on it anyways....they never do.

As for a track bar providing necessary structural support, I’d have to ask why virtually no pickup trucks use them ever. Also, XJs of the exact same time period didn’t either. So why in the world would a YJ need one? I removed both of mine ages ago and did the rear first and went for a drive. Other than slightly smoother road driving, there is no difference in handling or safety whatsoever.

I do see where you’re coming from as far as lawyers and insurance go if you were to get in a wreck, but I think that’s a long shot. If you bought an aftermarket axle with no track bar mount, or installed a lift kit that purposely tells you to delete the rear track bar in the instructions, I think you wouldn’t legally be punished for that.

Let me be clear: I think a front track bar is a good idea, but I think on a mostly stock rig with some lift, it is pretty much impossible to execute one correctly. If the rig is fully stock with no lift, you may as well keep the stock front bar since you won’t be needing much suspension movement anyways. But for the rear, I find it silly to make reasons to keep it when there are just as many or more, to delete it. Just my views on it.
 
I love the "back and forth" on this, and of course, everyone will make their own decision. All I can say with absolute assurance concerning the rear track bar... when mine broke, the drive train was affected along with audible thumping during acceleration and braking. After repair, everything returned to and remains normal. (Maybe I should also re-spring the rear?)

2nd, I understand your axle replacement concern... I've no problem buying a 30 year-old axle as long as it is refurbished and has the track bar mount on it. Everything needs an occasional overhaul! My plan is to buy the entire remanufactured axle assembly for expediting reasons, but I would not be adverse to getting mine rebuilt IF I am satisfied that the track bar mount repair would be adequate.

Your comment on ride quality is interesting and I'll agree that removing the rear track bar does soften the damping stiffness of the rear suspension. I've determined for myself that substantial 1st order ride quality effects are primarily controlled through shock absorber selection. Surprisingly, the softer and cheaper, the better! No "Heavy Duty" shocks for me!

I also agree that XJ's don't have a "rear track bar", but they have a "rear sway bar" which attaches the rear axle to BOTH left and right frame members. Not identical but acts in a similar manner kinda like having TWO track bars. Interestingly, the XJ forums have discussions similar to this one... can the rear sway bar be removed?... with almost identical comments as those brought up here. It all depends on the owners risk comfort level and intended use for the vehicle, particularly if lifted. For me, I appreciate the stiffer lateral structural support, compliance with the manufactures intent, and geometry control. And not to be picky, while pick-up trucks don't have "track bars" that I know of, many, including mine, have "sway bars". The sway bars provide stabilization noticed mostly when heavily loaded and while towing. When light and empty, many feel that the pick-up rear end is too stiff. When my Lance Truck Camper is on the truck, that sway bar earns it keep. I took a trip with the sway bar removed and regardless of turning roll resistance concerns, I mostly noticed a great difference when driving in crosswind conditions. But, I understand, this is not much of an issue on a YJ Wrangler.

I have 402,000 miles on my 1990 YJ and keep it structurally stock. It has been my daily driver since 1999 and has let me down only once (the throttle cable broke at the floor pedal attach point). I take it "desert" off-roading, but not "Rock-Crawling" where articulation becomes an issue. My niece loves it with the top and doors off during summer, in fact she wants me to give it to her when she turns 16. The YJ is somewhat unstable at freeway driving speeds, so she won't get it for quite a while, unless I die, then I'll be buried in it. Every switch, lever, light, button and dial works as the designers intended. That's where I'm coming from. So I ask anyone reading this... What benefit would I gain by permanently removing the rear track bar on my YJ Wrangler?