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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ Build Threads & Member's Rides
My '94 Hunter Green “No Compromises" Build
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<blockquote data-quote="machoheadgames" data-source="post: 430474" data-attributes="member: 18789"><p><strong><span style="font-size: 18px">Axle Project & Miscellaneous Recap</span></strong></p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px">Alright, well here is a catchup on the axle project. After my journey to Arizona, I came back and got the axles installed and the transfer case. It was a lot of work, I had to measure the pinion angle, pull the axles back out to paint, reinstall to do the brakes, etc. Lots of back and forth, slow progress. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px">I shipped my driveshaft off to Adams for them to tell me my length was actually fine and that due to the length it was, it would actually cost money to modify to the proper length, and that I can actually live just fine with the length that it is, especially since YJs aren't stuffing the axle super tight up into the Jeep. I still have 1.5" compression which would be nuts to accomplish that much on a YJ, especially since it takes way more than that in the suspension travel to compress the driveshaft that amount.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px">[ATTACH=full]117998[/ATTACH]</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px">The brakes were an interesting struggle. Everything went together fine but the parking brake cables for the disc setup were a bitch. In the past, I've used Teraflex cables when I did the D35 disc brake swap. They worked perfectly. This time around, they wouldn't clip to my axle backing plates. so I ordered cables from MORE, which fit ok but one was too long and the MOREs don't come with return springs, so they like to sag when the parking brake is not set. Not ideal. I returned both MORE and Tera. I ordered up some rough trail (basically crown brand) which is pretty much against my Crown stance, but they looked to be quality in the pics and they were actually decent. They clipped into place, had very beefy retainer clips so they will never come out of place, and they were almost the right lengths. One is a bit longer than the other but I can make it work. I just need to adjust one parking brake side tighter than the other and it'll live that way just fine.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px">[ATTACH=full]117999[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]117986[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]117987[/ATTACH]</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px">I decided to go with brand new Spicer diff covers for both the 44 and the 30. The 44 was nicer, it came with a really beefy cube style plug that you can use a crescent wrench on. the D30 uses the factory style 3/8" drive, which is not as handy, but it'll do. I painted them with VHT epoxy paint which just does an absolutely fabulous job. It comes out very smooth and glossy, looks very sharp.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px">[ATTACH=full]117985[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]117990[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]117991[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]117992[/ATTACH]</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px">The Detroit TrueTracs prefer conventional gear oil, with NO limited slip additive (sounds backwards because they are limited slip differentials). Since they are gear driven and not clutch driven, the limited slip additive can actually hinder their ability to bias and differentiate properly, which can make them less affective. I decided to get Currie's GL6 (GL5 backwards compatible) 85W-140 fluid. My Revolution gears prefer 85W-140 conventional, Currie confirmed this fluid is perfect for TrueTracs (they use it specifically on them), and so I ordered up 8 quarts (I have some spares now). Got the axles filled up with my fluid pump and called it good.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 15px">I reinstalled the transfer case and filled it up with some ATF as that's what the factory calls for. I've heard motor oil also works but since ATF is what I know, it's what I use. I filled up the trans with about 3.5 quarts out of my gallon of Redline MT90.</span></p><p></p><p>After my engine <a href="https://wrangleryjforum.com/threads/folks-run-your-freakin-engine-from-time-to-time.27779/" target="_blank">oopsie</a>, I got the oil pan back on and the system filled. The engine runs great. I filled the cooling system with a bottle of thermocure and water to clean out the block once I start running it. Sadly I noticed an oil leak at the bellhousing, so I will probably be draining the pan once again so I can remove it and inspect.....I think the oil pan gasket got out of line in the rear, but I'm really not sure. So hard to see up there when everything is in place.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117995[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I got the MORE rubber motor mounts in (shown a few posts up), they seem really nice. I really like the StinkyFab brackets too, very beefy. The engine idles nicely and doesn't seem to pass too many vibes. More than stock which is expected, but I'm okay with that given how secure they hold the driveline. Running an OEM mopar trans mount helps with the vibes too.</p><p></p><p>Did a quick tuneup with new Champion 412 coppers and new Mopar ignition wiring. I only changed the 5 year old, low mile wires because one of them broke. I kept the others as spares. They are all in good condition except the broken one, which I tossed.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]118000[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I'm still in the middle of dealing with the interior. I haven't finished the sound deadening mat, mainly because of laziness and I got busy with all the other projects after the Arizona trip. I've finally re cleaned up most of the interior so I can resume laying mat and taping all the joints. then I can try to figure out the carpet situation. The carpet will not be a fun install, lots of custom holes I have to make and it is hot outside, so won't be enjoyable. Anyways, I need to finish the sound mat, install the carpet, reinstall the new seats (they have seat covers on them now), put back my dash wiring, reinstall the new console, and reassembly the dash panels. Here are the seat covers. They are baggy, but they will at least preserve the stock stuff while I figure out a more long term solution (probably reupholstering the stock seats eventually).</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117996[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]117997[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]117988[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The general checklist to get moving:</p><p></p><p>-Reattach steering damper and tighten all front steering components</p><p>-change booster/master & bleed brakes</p><p>-reassemble interior and install carpet</p><p>-figure out oil leak</p><p>-get an inspection</p><p>-renew registration</p><p></p><p>Technically it's now drivable, just need to tighten up the few steering nuts and bolts from when I adjusted the drag link. It probably needs to get an alignment and definitely needs new steering components but it will work for now. The only reason I'm not driving it is the torn apart interior and the oil leak. When I pulled the distributor, I forgot to change that gasket so I need to do that, and also check out the oil pan gasket again. I don't think it's the RMS, seems to leak too fast and too much for that.</p><p></p><p>On the plus side, with the new wide timing chain and other components, it idles better than it has in a long time. We'll see if the wonky low idle is gone soon or not. I sure hope so. The clutch pedal feels like a million bucks, it is a dream. the transfer case is shifting good as well which is nice since I did the rebuild.</p><p></p><p>Overall progress is happening and it is only a small matter of time before I am finally whipping this thing around town! I'm ready to pop some wheelies with the 4.88's and temporary 31's.</p><p></p><p>Here's a video of her purring after I got oil pumping through it again.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117994[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Just chilling, waiting on me to finish up my work!</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117989[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="machoheadgames, post: 430474, member: 18789"] [B][SIZE=5]Axle Project & Miscellaneous Recap[/SIZE][/B] [SIZE=4]Alright, well here is a catchup on the axle project. After my journey to Arizona, I came back and got the axles installed and the transfer case. It was a lot of work, I had to measure the pinion angle, pull the axles back out to paint, reinstall to do the brakes, etc. Lots of back and forth, slow progress. I shipped my driveshaft off to Adams for them to tell me my length was actually fine and that due to the length it was, it would actually cost money to modify to the proper length, and that I can actually live just fine with the length that it is, especially since YJs aren't stuffing the axle super tight up into the Jeep. I still have 1.5" compression which would be nuts to accomplish that much on a YJ, especially since it takes way more than that in the suspension travel to compress the driveshaft that amount. [ATTACH type="full" width="383px" alt="IMG_5454.jpeg"]117998[/ATTACH] The brakes were an interesting struggle. Everything went together fine but the parking brake cables for the disc setup were a bitch. In the past, I've used Teraflex cables when I did the D35 disc brake swap. They worked perfectly. This time around, they wouldn't clip to my axle backing plates. so I ordered cables from MORE, which fit ok but one was too long and the MOREs don't come with return springs, so they like to sag when the parking brake is not set. Not ideal. I returned both MORE and Tera. I ordered up some rough trail (basically crown brand) which is pretty much against my Crown stance, but they looked to be quality in the pics and they were actually decent. They clipped into place, had very beefy retainer clips so they will never come out of place, and they were almost the right lengths. One is a bit longer than the other but I can make it work. I just need to adjust one parking brake side tighter than the other and it'll live that way just fine. [ATTACH type="full" width="385px" alt="IMG_5028.jpeg"]117999[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" width="381px" alt="IMG_4416.jpeg"]117986[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" width="384px" alt="IMG_4421.jpeg"]117987[/ATTACH] I decided to go with brand new Spicer diff covers for both the 44 and the 30. The 44 was nicer, it came with a really beefy cube style plug that you can use a crescent wrench on. the D30 uses the factory style 3/8" drive, which is not as handy, but it'll do. I painted them with VHT epoxy paint which just does an absolutely fabulous job. It comes out very smooth and glossy, looks very sharp. [ATTACH type="full" width="413px" alt="IMG_4339.jpeg"]117985[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" width="413px" alt="IMG_5027.jpeg"]117990[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" width="415px" alt="IMG_5029.jpeg"]117991[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" width="412px" alt="IMG_5030.jpeg"]117992[/ATTACH] The Detroit TrueTracs prefer conventional gear oil, with NO limited slip additive (sounds backwards because they are limited slip differentials). Since they are gear driven and not clutch driven, the limited slip additive can actually hinder their ability to bias and differentiate properly, which can make them less affective. I decided to get Currie's GL6 (GL5 backwards compatible) 85W-140 fluid. My Revolution gears prefer 85W-140 conventional, Currie confirmed this fluid is perfect for TrueTracs (they use it specifically on them), and so I ordered up 8 quarts (I have some spares now). Got the axles filled up with my fluid pump and called it good. I reinstalled the transfer case and filled it up with some ATF as that's what the factory calls for. I've heard motor oil also works but since ATF is what I know, it's what I use. I filled up the trans with about 3.5 quarts out of my gallon of Redline MT90.[/SIZE] After my engine [URL='https://wrangleryjforum.com/threads/folks-run-your-freakin-engine-from-time-to-time.27779/']oopsie[/URL], I got the oil pan back on and the system filled. The engine runs great. I filled the cooling system with a bottle of thermocure and water to clean out the block once I start running it. Sadly I noticed an oil leak at the bellhousing, so I will probably be draining the pan once again so I can remove it and inspect.....I think the oil pan gasket got out of line in the rear, but I'm really not sure. So hard to see up there when everything is in place. [ATTACH type="full" width="440px" alt="IMG_5367.jpeg"]117995[/ATTACH] I got the MORE rubber motor mounts in (shown a few posts up), they seem really nice. I really like the StinkyFab brackets too, very beefy. The engine idles nicely and doesn't seem to pass too many vibes. More than stock which is expected, but I'm okay with that given how secure they hold the driveline. Running an OEM mopar trans mount helps with the vibes too. Did a quick tuneup with new Champion 412 coppers and new Mopar ignition wiring. I only changed the 5 year old, low mile wires because one of them broke. I kept the others as spares. They are all in good condition except the broken one, which I tossed. [ATTACH type="full" width="449px" alt="IMG_5346.jpeg"]118000[/ATTACH] I'm still in the middle of dealing with the interior. I haven't finished the sound deadening mat, mainly because of laziness and I got busy with all the other projects after the Arizona trip. I've finally re cleaned up most of the interior so I can resume laying mat and taping all the joints. then I can try to figure out the carpet situation. The carpet will not be a fun install, lots of custom holes I have to make and it is hot outside, so won't be enjoyable. Anyways, I need to finish the sound mat, install the carpet, reinstall the new seats (they have seat covers on them now), put back my dash wiring, reinstall the new console, and reassembly the dash panels. Here are the seat covers. They are baggy, but they will at least preserve the stock stuff while I figure out a more long term solution (probably reupholstering the stock seats eventually). [ATTACH type="full" width="461px" alt="IMG_5447.jpeg"]117996[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" width="458px" alt="IMG_5450.jpeg"]117997[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" width="450px" alt="IMG_4445.jpeg"]117988[/ATTACH] The general checklist to get moving: -Reattach steering damper and tighten all front steering components -change booster/master & bleed brakes -reassemble interior and install carpet -figure out oil leak -get an inspection -renew registration Technically it's now drivable, just need to tighten up the few steering nuts and bolts from when I adjusted the drag link. It probably needs to get an alignment and definitely needs new steering components but it will work for now. The only reason I'm not driving it is the torn apart interior and the oil leak. When I pulled the distributor, I forgot to change that gasket so I need to do that, and also check out the oil pan gasket again. I don't think it's the RMS, seems to leak too fast and too much for that. On the plus side, with the new wide timing chain and other components, it idles better than it has in a long time. We'll see if the wonky low idle is gone soon or not. I sure hope so. The clutch pedal feels like a million bucks, it is a dream. the transfer case is shifting good as well which is nice since I did the rebuild. Overall progress is happening and it is only a small matter of time before I am finally whipping this thing around town! I'm ready to pop some wheelies with the 4.88's and temporary 31's. Here's a video of her purring after I got oil pumping through it again. [ATTACH type="full"]117994[/ATTACH] Just chilling, waiting on me to finish up my work! [ATTACH type="full" width="575px" alt="IMG_4660.jpeg"]117989[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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My '94 Hunter Green “No Compromises" Build
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