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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ Build Threads & Member's Rides
My '94 Hunter Green “No Compromises" Build
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<blockquote data-quote="machoheadgames" data-source="post: 429330" data-attributes="member: 18789"><p><strong>Clutch, Flywheel, Timing Chain, & Rear Main Seal (Part I)</strong></p><p></p><p>My clutch got some oil on it from a valve cover leak a few years ago. Ever since, it had been quite jerky, and randomly very grabby. It was unpredictable at best, so I decided to change it again, as shown above. This was a standard Luk Repset Clutch (05-065) that I had installed in 2014, when I had owned the Jeep around a year.</p><p></p><p>Got the flywheel plate all clean....it was black before. Spraying it with simple clean and scrubbing with a dish pad makes quick work of it.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117454[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>While I have it apart, I cleaned up the clutch fork, ordered a new Mopar fork retainer spring, and a new Mopar pivot ball. The fork gets some grease where the throwout bearing sits and under each end where it pivots on the ball and is operated by the clutch slave cylinder. Using a Mopar throwout bearing as well, seems to have the best reviews and longevity.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117457[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]117458[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Purty new Centerforce High Inertia flywheel....should help nicely with starting from stops.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117459[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The clutch job has sort of turn into a domino effect of 4-5 other things, as these projects usually do. The 4.0L engine uses a 2 piece rear main seal, which means that it can be changed by dropping the oil pan. You DO NOT have to pull the transmission for a 4.0. You do have to pull the transmission for a 2.5 RMS. However, my RMS has been bad for a while, and with the transmission out, there is a nice bit of room to sit and move around under the Jeep, so I am going ahead and changing it. Plus, now is the time to clean up all the gunk in the flywheel area, if I button it back up without changing the RMS, the gunk will come right back as soon as I start driving it.</p><p></p><p>My oil pan is nasty so I ordered a Spectra Premium oil pan as well. I would prefer Mopar ($2-300) but for $60 and complete 5 star reviews, we're giving this one a shot. You can see how nasty the old stuff is.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117460[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Apparently 1996 and newer 4.0s (and even late 95 YJs) had a metal girdle added to the bottom of the engine to brace the main bearings and strengthen the overall lower portion of the engine. The YJ engine uses normal bolts for the main bearing caps, the 96 and later use stud style bolts that have a tip on them you can bolt the girdle to. While I have everything apart, I am swapping all the bolts to the later model studs, and adding a girdle. An engine with a girdle is pictured below.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117461[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I haven't received the oil pan, gasket, or RMS yet, but I did receive the girdle and the stud bolts so I went ahead and installed the bolts last night. As you can see in the first pic, I had already changed one stud by the time I remembered to snap a pic. This part was easy, just remove the old bolts, and retorque each to 80 ft-lbs. Only do one at a time, so that the crankshaft is properly supported at all times.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117456[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]117455[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Since I had the oil pan out, naturally I need to dig into the timing cover too right?! My old timing cover was absolutely filthy, so I'm changing it as well, along with a double roller chain and gearset from Cloyes (9-3127). My old disgusting timing cover is shown below, and the picture really does not do it justice.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117453[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>So at this point, with this chain of repairs, my status is as follows:</p><p></p><p>1) waiting on oil pan, oil pan gasket, RMS, timing set to arrive</p><p>2) Install timing set & cover after receiving</p><p>3) Install RMS, girdle, then oil pan & gasket</p><p>4) install flywheel plate, flywheel, clutch, transmission</p><p>5) button it back up and go for a drive</p><p></p><p>Hopefully in a week or so, this project will finally be done. I'm really looking forward to the new smooth clutch and heavier flywheel.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="machoheadgames, post: 429330, member: 18789"] [B]Clutch, Flywheel, Timing Chain, & Rear Main Seal (Part I)[/B] My clutch got some oil on it from a valve cover leak a few years ago. Ever since, it had been quite jerky, and randomly very grabby. It was unpredictable at best, so I decided to change it again, as shown above. This was a standard Luk Repset Clutch (05-065) that I had installed in 2014, when I had owned the Jeep around a year. Got the flywheel plate all clean....it was black before. Spraying it with simple clean and scrubbing with a dish pad makes quick work of it. [ATTACH type="full" width="230px" alt="IMG_3396.jpeg"]117454[/ATTACH] While I have it apart, I cleaned up the clutch fork, ordered a new Mopar fork retainer spring, and a new Mopar pivot ball. The fork gets some grease where the throwout bearing sits and under each end where it pivots on the ball and is operated by the clutch slave cylinder. Using a Mopar throwout bearing as well, seems to have the best reviews and longevity. [ATTACH type="full" width="215px" alt="IMG_3407.jpeg"]117457[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" width="216px" alt="IMG_3408.jpeg"]117458[/ATTACH] Purty new Centerforce High Inertia flywheel....should help nicely with starting from stops. [ATTACH type="full" width="232px" alt="IMG_3341.jpeg"]117459[/ATTACH] The clutch job has sort of turn into a domino effect of 4-5 other things, as these projects usually do. The 4.0L engine uses a 2 piece rear main seal, which means that it can be changed by dropping the oil pan. You DO NOT have to pull the transmission for a 4.0. You do have to pull the transmission for a 2.5 RMS. However, my RMS has been bad for a while, and with the transmission out, there is a nice bit of room to sit and move around under the Jeep, so I am going ahead and changing it. Plus, now is the time to clean up all the gunk in the flywheel area, if I button it back up without changing the RMS, the gunk will come right back as soon as I start driving it. My oil pan is nasty so I ordered a Spectra Premium oil pan as well. I would prefer Mopar ($2-300) but for $60 and complete 5 star reviews, we're giving this one a shot. You can see how nasty the old stuff is. [ATTACH type="full" width="289px" alt="IMG_3334.jpeg"]117460[/ATTACH] Apparently 1996 and newer 4.0s (and even late 95 YJs) had a metal girdle added to the bottom of the engine to brace the main bearings and strengthen the overall lower portion of the engine. The YJ engine uses normal bolts for the main bearing caps, the 96 and later use stud style bolts that have a tip on them you can bolt the girdle to. While I have everything apart, I am swapping all the bolts to the later model studs, and adding a girdle. An engine with a girdle is pictured below. [ATTACH type="full" width="300px" alt="1619533678423.png"]117461[/ATTACH] I haven't received the oil pan, gasket, or RMS yet, but I did receive the girdle and the stud bolts so I went ahead and installed the bolts last night. As you can see in the first pic, I had already changed one stud by the time I remembered to snap a pic. This part was easy, just remove the old bolts, and retorque each to 80 ft-lbs. Only do one at a time, so that the crankshaft is properly supported at all times. [ATTACH type="full" width="295px" alt="IMG_3399.jpeg"]117456[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" width="343px" alt="IMG_3406.jpeg"]117455[/ATTACH] Since I had the oil pan out, naturally I need to dig into the timing cover too right?! My old timing cover was absolutely filthy, so I'm changing it as well, along with a double roller chain and gearset from Cloyes (9-3127). My old disgusting timing cover is shown below, and the picture really does not do it justice. [ATTACH type="full" width="245px" alt="IMG_3394.jpeg"]117453[/ATTACH] So at this point, with this chain of repairs, my status is as follows: 1) waiting on oil pan, oil pan gasket, RMS, timing set to arrive 2) Install timing set & cover after receiving 3) Install RMS, girdle, then oil pan & gasket 4) install flywheel plate, flywheel, clutch, transmission 5) button it back up and go for a drive Hopefully in a week or so, this project will finally be done. I'm really looking forward to the new smooth clutch and heavier flywheel. [/QUOTE]
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My '94 Hunter Green “No Compromises" Build
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