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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ Build Threads & Member's Rides
My '94 Hunter Green “No Compromises" Build
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<blockquote data-quote="machoheadgames" data-source="post: 428146" data-attributes="member: 18789"><p><strong>Body Lift</strong></p><p></p><p>Many people are body lift haters. For a long time I was too. At first, I didn't see the benefits. I was all focused on the body lift buttcrack. In reality it opens up so many more opportunities: better uptravel, more clearance for larger tires, less bump stop (see better uptravel), room to do a tummy tuck and motor mount lift more easily, and the best part, they are super affordable!</p><p></p><p>I went a bit different route than most. I chose the Savvy 1-1/4" body lift meant for a TJ. I went this route because the pucks are a nice anodized aluminum which means they will never crack, rust, or deteriorate, in general. The pucks and bolts are the same on a YJ as a TJ, so it mostly works. The downside is the grille bumpers they give you in the Savvy kit are meant only for TJ and don't work on a YJ. That meant I still needed to solve the grille snubber problem. I opted to also buy the Rough Country 1-1/4" body lift, and stole the grille bumpers out of it. I found someone who was capable of making his own bumpers and sold the kit to him for cheap. Overall, it worked out.</p><p></p><p>Pic of grille support blocks</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]116955[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Pic of body lift in one corner. My ARB rear bumper hides it well.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]116956[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p><strong>Tummy Tuck:</strong></p><p></p><p>To go with the body lift, I opted to go ahead and do a tummy tuck as well. I had several reasons:</p><p></p><p>1. To bring shifters back to normal height after body lift</p><p>2. To Maximize Clearance under the skid plate</p><p>3. Why not? </p><p></p><p>i chose the Undercover Fabworks Extra-Clearance Skid Plate in 3/16" Steel. This one gives you 1-1/2" clearance above stock. When you consider that I installed a 1-1/4" body lift, and their 1/2" tuck works on a stock jeep with no body lift, I knew I'd be good with at least 0.25" to spare. And, the drivetrain was then 1/4" closer to the tub than stock, which helps maximize the length of the shifter, which can be a reach for some and is nice to have it as long as possible.</p><p></p><p>The install was simple, I sprayed the plate with a few coats of Herculiner, and bolted it right up. I also opted to install a new Mopar rubber transmission mount at the same time. It was one of the last few I could find.</p><p></p><p>Side profile of the skid plate. Hangs down noticeably less than stock.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]116957[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>View of the skid from behind. It has nice raised edges to increase rigidity.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]116958[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Overall the UCF was nice quality and a good purchase. It got the job done, and put my transmission back to a good relationship with the tub of the Jeep.</p><p></p><p><strong>1" MML</strong></p><p></p><p>To go along with the tuck and the body lift, I completed the trifecta with replacement 1" motor mounts from Brown Dog. I already had their full engine bracket and stock height mount kit from years prior, so this was a very simple swap. </p><p></p><p>When you examine a Jeep's exhaust, it's mounted to various things. First, it starts at the engine which is mounted to the frame. Next, it is hooked into a bracket on the transmission, also mounted to the frame. Further, the muffler is hung off of the tub, and finally, the frame supports the tailpipe with a hanger.</p><p></p><p>With a body lift, you put odd lift on the muffler. With a tuck, you fix the issues in the muffler area by raising the transmission to be close to the same level again. However, you now put stress on the header/exhaust manifold because the engine is still at stock level. The MML brings the engine up to get the exhaust back into a good spot at all 3 locations. Finally, this rotation of the exhaust upwards makes the tailpipe happy in its mount as well. At this point, with all these mods, Installing a MML only makes sense.</p><p></p><p>The MML also brings the engine upwards to clear the fan shroud. Typically redrilling the radiator to mount the shroud is no big deal, but it's nice to avoid it if you can do so by bringing the engine up with a MML anyways. For me, it made sense to go this route. Everything has worked flawlessly ever since.</p><p></p><p>Pic of the MML and Brown Dog's Engine Bracket. I opted for rubber to complement the rubber Mopar mount nicely. Vibes are minimal, I am happy.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]116959[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="machoheadgames, post: 428146, member: 18789"] [B]Body Lift[/B] Many people are body lift haters. For a long time I was too. At first, I didn't see the benefits. I was all focused on the body lift buttcrack. In reality it opens up so many more opportunities: better uptravel, more clearance for larger tires, less bump stop (see better uptravel), room to do a tummy tuck and motor mount lift more easily, and the best part, they are super affordable! I went a bit different route than most. I chose the Savvy 1-1/4" body lift meant for a TJ. I went this route because the pucks are a nice anodized aluminum which means they will never crack, rust, or deteriorate, in general. The pucks and bolts are the same on a YJ as a TJ, so it mostly works. The downside is the grille bumpers they give you in the Savvy kit are meant only for TJ and don't work on a YJ. That meant I still needed to solve the grille snubber problem. I opted to also buy the Rough Country 1-1/4" body lift, and stole the grille bumpers out of it. I found someone who was capable of making his own bumpers and sold the kit to him for cheap. Overall, it worked out. Pic of grille support blocks [ATTACH]116955[/ATTACH] Pic of body lift in one corner. My ARB rear bumper hides it well. [ATTACH]116956[/ATTACH] [B]Tummy Tuck:[/B] To go with the body lift, I opted to go ahead and do a tummy tuck as well. I had several reasons: 1. To bring shifters back to normal height after body lift 2. To Maximize Clearance under the skid plate 3. Why not? i chose the Undercover Fabworks Extra-Clearance Skid Plate in 3/16" Steel. This one gives you 1-1/2" clearance above stock. When you consider that I installed a 1-1/4" body lift, and their 1/2" tuck works on a stock jeep with no body lift, I knew I'd be good with at least 0.25" to spare. And, the drivetrain was then 1/4" closer to the tub than stock, which helps maximize the length of the shifter, which can be a reach for some and is nice to have it as long as possible. The install was simple, I sprayed the plate with a few coats of Herculiner, and bolted it right up. I also opted to install a new Mopar rubber transmission mount at the same time. It was one of the last few I could find. Side profile of the skid plate. Hangs down noticeably less than stock. [ATTACH]116957[/ATTACH] View of the skid from behind. It has nice raised edges to increase rigidity. [ATTACH]116958[/ATTACH] Overall the UCF was nice quality and a good purchase. It got the job done, and put my transmission back to a good relationship with the tub of the Jeep. [B]1" MML[/B] To go along with the tuck and the body lift, I completed the trifecta with replacement 1" motor mounts from Brown Dog. I already had their full engine bracket and stock height mount kit from years prior, so this was a very simple swap. When you examine a Jeep's exhaust, it's mounted to various things. First, it starts at the engine which is mounted to the frame. Next, it is hooked into a bracket on the transmission, also mounted to the frame. Further, the muffler is hung off of the tub, and finally, the frame supports the tailpipe with a hanger. With a body lift, you put odd lift on the muffler. With a tuck, you fix the issues in the muffler area by raising the transmission to be close to the same level again. However, you now put stress on the header/exhaust manifold because the engine is still at stock level. The MML brings the engine up to get the exhaust back into a good spot at all 3 locations. Finally, this rotation of the exhaust upwards makes the tailpipe happy in its mount as well. At this point, with all these mods, Installing a MML only makes sense. The MML also brings the engine upwards to clear the fan shroud. Typically redrilling the radiator to mount the shroud is no big deal, but it's nice to avoid it if you can do so by bringing the engine up with a MML anyways. For me, it made sense to go this route. Everything has worked flawlessly ever since. Pic of the MML and Brown Dog's Engine Bracket. I opted for rubber to complement the rubber Mopar mount nicely. Vibes are minimal, I am happy. [ATTACH]116959[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ Build Threads & Member's Rides
My '94 Hunter Green “No Compromises" Build
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