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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ Build Threads & Member's Rides
My '94 Hunter Green “No Compromises" Build
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<blockquote data-quote="machoheadgames" data-source="post: 428097" data-attributes="member: 18789"><p>For the rest of 2018 I did no other modifications really, but I did make a decision to go all-in on the WJ knuckle swap. This is a conversion that uses Grand Cherokee WJ steering knuckles to convert a YJ/TJ/XJ to use the WJ knuckles, which brings along the WJ steering and WJ larger, much more powerful brakes. The knuckles are typically sourced from a junkyard. The WJ uses CV front axle shafts, which are a different length and as a result, when using YJ axle shafts on the WJ knuckles, the unit bearings have to be spaced out by quarter-inch spacers welded to the knuckles. This then messes up the alignment between the caliper and the new rotor. To fix that, caliper spacers can be used to space the caliper out 1/4”. Another solution is to use 2000-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ unit bearings which are ¼” more shallow. This makes it to where everything will work if using the WJ stock rotor.</p><p></p><p>Now, the WJ uses a different wheel bolt pattern, 5x5” instead of 5x4.5” like the YJs use. So, rotors need to be drilled. They can also be purchased from Iron Rock Offroad. Another option is to use rotors from an Explorer Sport Trac, but the unit bearing flange will need to be ground down to fit inside the rotor hat. The rotor hats are also deeper, so you have to space out the unit bearing more to line the rotor up. I’d say the drilled rotors is a better option.</p><p></p><p>For calipers, I took the calipers from the junkyard, sent them in as cores and bought new Centric Premium brand calipers from RockAuto. Also, due to the position of the brake lines on the calipers and the way they are clocked, the brake lines need to be much longer on a YJ. I ended up reworking the brake lines up by the shock tower, and then let the soft brake lines form a C shape down to the calipers. It worked fine and you can see it in the first picture.</p><p></p><p><strong>Steering:</strong></p><p></p><p>Steering is tricky. WJ steering is too long because they have wider axles. First off, the tie rod on a WJ mounts below the knuckles. The mounting points on the WJ knuckle are lower than on the YJ knuckle. This means that stock steering mounted to a WJ knuckle, and placed on a YJ, will not fit due to the leaf springs. So, the tie rod has to be moved up above the knuckle. Because of this, the drag link also has to be moved up above the knuckle. Because you’re flipping the tie rod and drag link, the tapers have to be redone. I traded my knuckles with Black Magic Brakes who happened to be pulling some knuckles off of a TJ that had the stock taper, flipped on them. He has a way to basically erase the stock taper, and add a stock tapered sleeve back to the knuckle in the opposite direction. So I ended up with knuckles that had that operation done to them. I also used steering from that setup that was DOM tube, tapped for WJ tie rod ends, and so I was running stock WJ tie rod ends on custom steering.</p><p></p><p>I tried using one-ton tie rod ends but since I had to mount them over the knuckle, the body of the passenger tie rod end interfered with the drag link end up above it. I’m not sure how people run one-ton steering on this setup. Maybe they taper the lower TRE hole deeper than mine was tapered. One of the pictures shows what I mean.</p><p></p><p>The drag link being mounted above the knuckle then makes it very tall for the Jeep. The pitman arm needs to remain stock, or even be flattened out to give even better steering clearance. With 4.5” of suspension lift, my drag link was still higher at the knuckle than the pitman arm, and sloped downward when going over to the pitman. Ideally this swap should only be done on Jeeps with lots of lift.</p><p></p><p>After it was all said and done, the brakes worked well, but the steering was very darty. After literally probably spending 3 grand on this swap, I haven’t been very happy with it. It’s aligned properly, yet screeches on tight turns, handles vaguely on the highway, etc. I am planning to remove the parts eventually and go back to stock steering and the Vanco 15” Big Brake Kit.</p><p></p><p>I don’t have a lot of pictures from this swap either but here are three. The third pic shows what I was talking about with reworking the brake lines. I used Rubicon Express brake line extensions to get the hard lines where they are.</p><p></p><p>Tie Rod End/Drag Link End Interference....</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]116935[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Welded Knuckles and Steering</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]116936[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The Setup Installed (and Reworked Brake Lines)</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]116937[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="machoheadgames, post: 428097, member: 18789"] For the rest of 2018 I did no other modifications really, but I did make a decision to go all-in on the WJ knuckle swap. This is a conversion that uses Grand Cherokee WJ steering knuckles to convert a YJ/TJ/XJ to use the WJ knuckles, which brings along the WJ steering and WJ larger, much more powerful brakes. The knuckles are typically sourced from a junkyard. The WJ uses CV front axle shafts, which are a different length and as a result, when using YJ axle shafts on the WJ knuckles, the unit bearings have to be spaced out by quarter-inch spacers welded to the knuckles. This then messes up the alignment between the caliper and the new rotor. To fix that, caliper spacers can be used to space the caliper out 1/4”. Another solution is to use 2000-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ unit bearings which are ¼” more shallow. This makes it to where everything will work if using the WJ stock rotor. Now, the WJ uses a different wheel bolt pattern, 5x5” instead of 5x4.5” like the YJs use. So, rotors need to be drilled. They can also be purchased from Iron Rock Offroad. Another option is to use rotors from an Explorer Sport Trac, but the unit bearing flange will need to be ground down to fit inside the rotor hat. The rotor hats are also deeper, so you have to space out the unit bearing more to line the rotor up. I’d say the drilled rotors is a better option. For calipers, I took the calipers from the junkyard, sent them in as cores and bought new Centric Premium brand calipers from RockAuto. Also, due to the position of the brake lines on the calipers and the way they are clocked, the brake lines need to be much longer on a YJ. I ended up reworking the brake lines up by the shock tower, and then let the soft brake lines form a C shape down to the calipers. It worked fine and you can see it in the first picture. [B]Steering:[/B] Steering is tricky. WJ steering is too long because they have wider axles. First off, the tie rod on a WJ mounts below the knuckles. The mounting points on the WJ knuckle are lower than on the YJ knuckle. This means that stock steering mounted to a WJ knuckle, and placed on a YJ, will not fit due to the leaf springs. So, the tie rod has to be moved up above the knuckle. Because of this, the drag link also has to be moved up above the knuckle. Because you’re flipping the tie rod and drag link, the tapers have to be redone. I traded my knuckles with Black Magic Brakes who happened to be pulling some knuckles off of a TJ that had the stock taper, flipped on them. He has a way to basically erase the stock taper, and add a stock tapered sleeve back to the knuckle in the opposite direction. So I ended up with knuckles that had that operation done to them. I also used steering from that setup that was DOM tube, tapped for WJ tie rod ends, and so I was running stock WJ tie rod ends on custom steering. I tried using one-ton tie rod ends but since I had to mount them over the knuckle, the body of the passenger tie rod end interfered with the drag link end up above it. I’m not sure how people run one-ton steering on this setup. Maybe they taper the lower TRE hole deeper than mine was tapered. One of the pictures shows what I mean. The drag link being mounted above the knuckle then makes it very tall for the Jeep. The pitman arm needs to remain stock, or even be flattened out to give even better steering clearance. With 4.5” of suspension lift, my drag link was still higher at the knuckle than the pitman arm, and sloped downward when going over to the pitman. Ideally this swap should only be done on Jeeps with lots of lift. After it was all said and done, the brakes worked well, but the steering was very darty. After literally probably spending 3 grand on this swap, I haven’t been very happy with it. It’s aligned properly, yet screeches on tight turns, handles vaguely on the highway, etc. I am planning to remove the parts eventually and go back to stock steering and the Vanco 15” Big Brake Kit. I don’t have a lot of pictures from this swap either but here are three. The third pic shows what I was talking about with reworking the brake lines. I used Rubicon Express brake line extensions to get the hard lines where they are. Tie Rod End/Drag Link End Interference.... [ATTACH]116935[/ATTACH] Welded Knuckles and Steering [ATTACH]116936[/ATTACH] The Setup Installed (and Reworked Brake Lines) [ATTACH]116937[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Jeep Wrangler YJ
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My '94 Hunter Green “No Compromises" Build
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