I need to install a new Clutch Master Cylinder "only", without disturbing either the fluid pressure line below the Master Cylinder or the slave cylinder. My question concerns hydraulic bleeding.
Method 1.) The Maintenance Manual procedure is to crack the bleed screw under the Jeep with an attached tube going into a bottle of brake fluid while a helper pushes the clutch pedal down. I understand this.
Method 2.) I have read elsewhere that a pressure bleed can be accomplished by pumping brake fluid UP from under the Jeep into the Master Cylinder. Has any reader actually performed this? Can it be a "one person" job, or, does a helper need to hold the clutch pedal down while pumping fluid UP to the master reservoir?
Method 3.) Lastly, I was thinking that when replacing only the Master Cylinder, no air is introduced into the lower parts of the system, so one can install the new master, fill the reservoir, then slowly pump the clutch pedal, holding it down for 10 to 15 seconds. This would compress the air trapped near the top of the system, forcing it into the master. Holding the pedal down captures that air in the piston chamber. Releasing the pedal forces that air to move under the reservoir, allowing it to bubble up through the fluid. The piston chamber air gap is replaced with fresh fluid on the subsequent pedal push. Repeated "pumps" of the pedal clears the air. Top off the fluid level when you have good pedal feel.
Has anyone ever successfully accomplished Method 2 or 3?
Method 1.) The Maintenance Manual procedure is to crack the bleed screw under the Jeep with an attached tube going into a bottle of brake fluid while a helper pushes the clutch pedal down. I understand this.
Method 2.) I have read elsewhere that a pressure bleed can be accomplished by pumping brake fluid UP from under the Jeep into the Master Cylinder. Has any reader actually performed this? Can it be a "one person" job, or, does a helper need to hold the clutch pedal down while pumping fluid UP to the master reservoir?
Method 3.) Lastly, I was thinking that when replacing only the Master Cylinder, no air is introduced into the lower parts of the system, so one can install the new master, fill the reservoir, then slowly pump the clutch pedal, holding it down for 10 to 15 seconds. This would compress the air trapped near the top of the system, forcing it into the master. Holding the pedal down captures that air in the piston chamber. Releasing the pedal forces that air to move under the reservoir, allowing it to bubble up through the fluid. The piston chamber air gap is replaced with fresh fluid on the subsequent pedal push. Repeated "pumps" of the pedal clears the air. Top off the fluid level when you have good pedal feel.
Has anyone ever successfully accomplished Method 2 or 3?