I cant find the right transmission pan

[1990Jrenteia]

I have a 1990 Jeep YJ 4.2 I6 with (I think) an a999 transmission. I'm dealing with a transmission leak from the pan, I looked everywhere and I can't find a pan similar to OEM. I'm finding a lot of deep pans but I'm afraid the pan does not have clearance even with a 4-inch lift because of the previous owner's trashy exhaust job. with the pictures I attached, is there enough room for a deep pan? and is it worth it? Also if anyone has a link to an OEM pan or recommended deep-pan PLEASE send it my way. Thanks yall!!

 

[Gilaguy23]

Probably an optical illusion but in pic #2 it looks like the edge of the trans itself is warped. At any rate unless the pan is cracked which could be brazed or welded up no point in changing it IMO. Id try another gasket and some RTV in that spot and make sure it cures overnight at least. Invest the deep pan money into a trans cooler or better one if yours is to small.

 

[1990Jrenteia]

Probably an optical illusion but in pic #2 it looks like the edge of the trans itself is warped. At any rate unless the pan is cracked which could be brazed or welded up no point in changing it IMO. Id try another gasket and some RTV in that spot and make sure it cures overnight at least. Invest the deep pan money into a trans cooler or better one if yours is to small.

So it's my 3rd time changing out the gasket, the 1st time I used a felt gasket, the 2nd time a rubber gasket with RTV, 3rd time (now) I'm using a lube lock reusable gasket that cost me $30. It leaks from the rear end of the pan onto the skid plate, so I don't notice a leak until I have a puddle of trans fluid on my driveway lol. The pan is damaged on the rear end so that's why I'm really hoping a new pan can solve my issues, but I can't find an OEM depth pan for the life of me, I'm just hoping to hear back from the local junkyard. That trans cooler sounds like a good idea as well, do you have one you can recommend?

 

[Gilaguy23]

Wow, sounds like you've done your best to fix the leak. A hairline crack perhaps or just warped a bit. Hard to believe even with RTV it still leaks. Ive had great luck using nothing but RTV on old 350 valve covers and their stamped junk more less. Is the gasket staying in place with the wet silicone on it? Its easy when still slippery wet to tighten things down and the gasket with RTV slips out of place. I typically use as many bolts as holes in whatever as alignment pins while the gasket dries to the cover,pan ect. Then a 1/8 tall bead around the outer edge of the side that mates up. And dont a bead around the bolt holes. That usually seals up any gaps or imperfections in machined of corroded surfaces. Might try Collins bros in Texas for used parts or Sonnax whos been good for me in the past. You might have a factory T cooler, not sure on yours so check first. In a nutshell the stacked plate type are most desirable compared to the old school tube and fin.

 

[T-Rex Jeepster]

So it's my 3rd time changing out the gasket, the 1st time I used a felt gasket, the 2nd time a rubber gasket with RTV, 3rd time (now) I'm using a lube lock reusable gasket that cost me $30. It leaks from the rear end of the pan onto the skid plate, so I don't notice a leak until I have a puddle of trans fluid on my driveway lol. The pan is damaged on the rear end so that's why I'm really hoping a new pan can solve my issues, but I can't find an OEM depth pan for the life of me, I'm just hoping to hear back from the local junkyard. That trans cooler sounds like a good idea as well, do you have one you can recommend?

When you say RTV, Here's the problem.....Auto tranny fluid is off the chart with detergent additives....Which DESTROY anything with
a rubber base/content...Other poster was right, Pan edge looks warped which comes from torquing down on the bolt heads.....
Anytime I pull a pan or cover of thin metal, I put the pan edge on a hard flat table edge And take a 3/8 drive extension and tap all the bolt holes back flush with the flat surface. Do that and find a cork gasket and when you reinstall, Use a quarter inch drive ratchet/socket and torque them down in a cross pattern starting with the center ones first. Go easy, Seating them first and make several passes easily applying pressure until you get a "Snug" Feel to them all. Remember, Your tranny fluid gets upward of two hundred degrees and I'd re-torgue them after a few days when it's set and cold....Just remember, 1/4 inch drive, And gently to snug.....

 

[jeepjoe43]

I've got Lube-Lockers on both axle covers, but both the covers and housings are machined cast, no brainer.
The LL gasket is probably meant for a cast aluminum AM pan, if they still exist, if anyone ever even made them. Dunno.
But T-Rex is correct the sheetmetal pan bolt holes need to beaten back out flat, or maybe even i bit more.
As for sealants and gaskets, I've only been there with oil pans and valve covers, cork and RTV mostly.
My t-case is sealed with RTV, runs ATF and never had a leak, but then again, all machined surfaces.
For two machined surfaces I usually use Permatex Aviation Sealer, don't know why I didn't this time around. (probably CRS)

Are you sure that is the leak?
Though unlikely, it could also be the input gear seal for the t-case, there's no gasket between the t-case and tranny.