Front axle seals

[Weasellee]

Dana 30 front axle
Wanna replace axle seals and u joints
Called dealer w vin amd received these part numbers

UJoints - Mopar -4137757
Seals - Mopar - 83503504

1- is there two seals w same part number?
2- does anyone have spicer part numbers for these items?

Thanks

 

[Weasellee]

Bump

 

[bowpro73]

The seal in my 95 dana 30, inside the diff on my driver side was Napa 11899 for cross reference. The passenger side seal, in the shift fork housing, is a different one. I went through the same spill, but converted to a solid axle from a TJ, eliminating the shift fork and that seal altogether during my axle change. No more shift fork. If you need that seal number for the passenger side, I can pull the box from my shed and provide it to you. I didn't use it after my axle swap to a TJ axle, instead placed a seal on the passenger side of the differential. All fluid is now contained in the diff. instead of down the tube all the way to the shift fork.

 

[bowpro73]

Shift fork deleted and I love the swap. Didn't plan on doing so, but passenger side axle was scored at the location of seal contact. Pointless to put it back in, only to have the new seal go out soon after. Instead of buying another stock split shaft, I went with a one piece TJ axle all the way into the differential. The pic is the plate where the shift fork housing used to be. I got tired of the ring jumping out of lock when I needed it most.

 

[bowpro73]

The Spicer # for your passenger seal is 42500. Here's the Spicer set you'd need, Ebay and vendor in the screenshot. I messed up the Spicer seal on driver side diff install. The national seal # is from oreilly auto parts that I picked up. It's the driver side diff equivalent that I got after messing up the Spicer seal. Lol.

 

[Weasellee]

Thanks a million. This TJ axle swap seems the way to go. I happen to have a small stack of TJ parts
What else is required but the full length shaft?

 

[bowpro73]

*The TJ shaft
*Seals: Driver side in diff- Napa 11899
Pass side in diff- Napa 11800 (Napa 11800 is also Moog/National 710202 at O'Reilly)

*Gasket sealer
*Block off plate
*Gear Oil

 

[bowpro73]

I bought this seal press for the install of the two diff seals. It barely fit the edges of the seals, so I went to Ace hardware and bought a big washer that was just a fraction bigger in diameter of the seal press. It worked perfectly. Part store is not gonna find a seal for the passenger side diff in the yj on a diagram search. It wasn't designed to take one, but the 11800 or that national seal number fits in the tube, so you'll just have to directly ask for that specific seal. You won't need the stock passenger side seal (in the shift fork housing) that the parts store will come up with. I bought the block off plate from jeep hut. The shift fork cover bolts worked on the plate.

 

[bowpro73]

My jeep was on blocks in the front. I disconnected the driver side tie rod end to give me room to pull the diff gear assembly. I removed the diff cover and after the grease drained, I washed the gears and inner cavity with brake parts cleaner. Before removing the bearing caps, take photos of their orientation. There's marks on the diff that will match up with the bearing caps. The bearing caps can't swap sides, nor even flipped over on the same side. Take good photos. I actually even left the bolts in the holes of the bearing caps, so it went back in the very same way it came out. Removed gears easily. Keep your hands on the ends of the gear assembly as it comes out of the diff housing, so the bearings and the rings don't fall off. I left them on the sides. I just placed the whole assembly in the diff cover, like a bowl. I didn't have to pry on the gear assembly to remove it, but you possibly might need to. Popped out the seals and cleaned out axle tubes and differential real good. Clean the face of the differential cover as well. I easily removed the old silicone from the face of the diff and the cover with a wire wheel on a drill. I cleaned out the areas where the seals will go with a Dremel and the wire wheels (got a set of wire wheels for the Dremel at harbor freight). Dremel and wire wheels gave me plenty of room to clean out the seal locations really well. Brake cleaned out the remaining debris and wiped everything out really good with shop rags. I ran a light coat of the black silicone in the tube before installing the seal. It will give the seal a little ease of pressing, but will dry and serve as a sealant around the outer diameter of the seal as well. Repeat that process of silicone and install the other seal. You'll know when the seals are seated, the press will come to a dead stop, if you go with that tool. I screwed up the first seals trying to hammer them in with a long rod through the tubes. After seals are in, give the seals a light rub with grease. Reinstall gears and put the bearing caps back on the way they came off like I mentioned. Get all four bolts started and rotate on the tightening sequence. Once they are all snug, torque to 60 ft lbs. in an X pattern. Axles are ready to go in. Grease the splines well and then a very thin coat down the axle just past the point where the seal will ride. Go easy on axle install. Try to keep it centered and off the bottom when going down the tube. You could possibly pick up debris on the splines before it goes through the seal, causing some damage to the rubber on the seal. You wanna try to stay sanitary and tedious on that procedure. Make sure you have popped out the old seal in the shift fork housing. Just the same, you don't want that old dirty seal contaminating your axle before it goes through that new one in the diff. Hope this helps. Have fun. Also, you won't have a 4wd light (the wires connected to shift fork housing). Mine were dangling when I bought it used. I didn't care and still really don't. I'm sure I'll look into a way to make it happen, but I'm not really concerned. I bought this rig for bowhunting. It was much cheaper than a UTV, with better components at that. Lol

 

[Weasellee]

What a great write up. I really appreciate you my friend. This looks like an easy one. I have the tool you specify already. This will be my first “disconnect “ Dana 30 but it seems it won’t be soon.