Do I need to install manual hubs?

BBClamper

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Big Bear Ca
Hey all, newb here in SoCal. I just picked up a 92 YJ w the dreaded CAD split D30 up front. The 30 came with an ARB. I’ve been reading up on jettisoning that vac system and converting it to the one piece shaft. My question is, would I need to install manual hubs as well? I guess I’m a little fuzzy on how the manual locking hubs work in conjunction w a selectable diff locker. I’m also going to be swapping out blown out ball joints while I’m at it. Any other suggestions as to what other upgrades I should do while I’m down there?
Thanks in advance!
 
Hey all, newb here in SoCal. I just picked up a 92 YJ w the dreaded CAD split D30 up front. The 30 came with an ARB. I’ve been reading up on jettisoning that vac system and converting it to the one piece shaft. My question is, would I need to install manual hubs as well? I guess I’m a little fuzzy on how the manual locking hubs work in conjunction w a selectable diff locker. I’m also going to be swapping out blown out ball joints while I’m at it. Any other suggestions as to what other upgrades I should do while I’m down there?
Thanks in advance!
You can pull the two piece passenger side factory shafts and replace them with a one piece shaft from a TJ or XJ. That’s all there is to it.

Doing the one piece shaft upgrade does not require locking hubs. It works seamlessly with the factory Dana 30 unit bearings, brakes, and knuckles.
 
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FouledPlugs is 100% correct. All the shaft replacement does is get rid of the failure prone vacuum assembly controlling when you get 4WD. Don't need manual hubs at all, You are essentially converting your front axle to a TJ setup and they run lunchbox, selectable, and automatic full case lockers all the time. The transfer case doesn't apply any power to the front driveshaft in 2WD so no issues on an auto or lunchbox locker. On a selectable locker, even better because it is an open diff when it's off anyways. Long story short, you are good to go with no worries whatsoever. Run the locker you want and convert the axle shaft if desired.
 
As usual, these guys are spot on, but be aware that the front drive shaft will turn all the time.
You may experience vibration at speed if you have a lift, bent or unbalanced drive shaft.
Recommend a CV front shaft, if it doesn't already have one.
Got one for mine while I was ordering the rear, as I'm eliminating the CAD too.
Agree with Fouled plugs, chromos and a gear swap, that's the way I'm going.
 
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Thanks for the info guys. As two owners ago installed the ARB, and left the CAD, I assume they left the original 27 spline so I’ll look into upgrading to the cromos. At least they already had it re geared to 456’s.
The last guy was running 35’s with no problems, when these 33’s are done I will as well.
 
Already re-geared, that's definitely a plus!
Going for 4.88s in mine, but i just have the wind up motor.
Currently running 32s, but not I'm not planning on anything bigger than 33s.
Wasn't planning on doing a gear swap just yet, but when the D35 turned out to be made from tin foil....
The heck if i'm going to put a 35 back in, so I ordered an East Coast Gear Supply custom bolt in D489 (JK D44) with 35 splines.
Since the new rear will be 4.88s and the front will have to be matched, so now's the time to go for 30 splines there, less the CAD.
OX locks in both to accommodate the bigger shafts. I'll never break them, and I'm down with that!
 
Already re-geared, that's definitely a plus!
Going for 4.88s in mine, but i just have the wind up motor.
Currently running 32s, but not I'm not planning on anything bigger than 33s.
Wasn't planning on doing a gear swap just yet, but when the D35 turned out to be made from tin foil....
The heck if i'm going to put a 35 back in, so I ordered an East Coast Gear Supply custom bolt in D489 (JK D44) with 35 splines.
Since the new rear will be 4.88s and the front will have to be matched, so now's the time to go for 30 splines there, less the CAD.
OX locks in both to accommodate the bigger shafts. I'll never break them, and I'm down with that!
Don't bother with 4.88, go straight to 5.13 with a 2.5 and 32-33's.

Edit: I see you already bought 4.88, I'd call them and see if you could have them do 5.13 instead if it isn't too late. Seriously, you wouldn't regret it. 4.88's and 33's is still not as peppy as stock, since stock was 27's.
 
Thanks for the info guys. As two owners ago installed the ARB, and left the CAD, I assume they left the original 27 spline so I’ll look into upgrading to the cromos. At least they already had it re geared to 456’s.
The last guy was running 35’s with no problems, when these 33’s are done I will as well.
They definitely left it 27 spline because there are no other spline options that support the CAD. Only stock supports it. All aftermarket chromos as well automatically eliminate the CAD as well.

As for gearing, if you have a manual, 33's and 4.56 is pretty good. 35's leaves a bit to be desired. I'd leave it at 33's if it were me. I'm actually going with 33's and 4.88 on my 4.0 5-speed, but I like to be geared low. Currently have 4.10 and 31's and want a bit more.
 
Don't bother with 4.88, go straight to 5.13 with a 2.5 and 32-33's.

Edit: I see you already bought 4.88, I'd call them and see if you could have them do 5.13 instead if it isn't too late. Seriously, you wouldn't regret it. 4.88's and 33's is still not as peppy as stock, since stock was 27's.
I've done the math on this keeping several considerations in mind.
1. On paper, the 4.88s put me just a tic higher in the revs (about 100 RPM @ 60).
Rolling resistance and tire mass not considered, it's probably a wash, maybe a little less power.
2. Since I'm back in the same RPM range as stock, the speedo won't need a new gear.
Not a big deal, but one less thing I have to do on a list that has gotten WAY too long.
3. Most importantly, I have to drive the Interstate to go anywhere, or I have to Wheel there.
I don't want to be revving a push-rod motor past 3500 for extended periods of time.
3500 is right about where it will be @70 so I don't get run over, w/5.13s that's closer to 4000.
I love a low gear too, would have put in 5.89s if they made them for a 30HP and run 35s, but I gotta be practical.
The old flatty I had, had 5.38s with 32s and would do 75 @ about 4300, but that was an OHC 4banger, horse of another color.
4. 5.13 seems like an odd ratio that may not be sitting on the shelf at your local 4X store if you need one in a pinch, especially if it's a D30 Reverse Rotation...4.88 is pretty common.
Anyway, the 4.88s will be a big improvement over stock and the 33s are a long way off, if they happen at all.
 
I would second Jeepjoe43's recommendation for a CV front drive shaft if you go with a solid front shaft considering you are driving on the HWY a good bit. You will also need to remove the front drive shaft if you flat tow as your transfer case's neutral is not a true neutral. You are fine with the CAD so long as your front locker is in open.

Have you considered leaving the CAD?

I went with 4.56 with my 31s and I wish I would have gone with 4.88 or 5.13 for gears.

 
I've flat towed a lot, but not this one. Yet.
My Flatty had a D300 TC, short distances, TC in N, tranny in gear, Lock the front hubs so the TC lubes the rear output bearing.
Long distances I would drop the rear Drive shaft and make sure the hubs were un-locked, that was just for fuel economy.
I think what smgager means by "not a true neutral" is that TC is actually in 4WD in neutral, just not engaged to the tranny.
As long as you have a good front drive shaft, I can't imagine having an issue, but I could be wrong.
 
Yep. The NP231 in the YJ is disengaged from the transmission in neutral, but the front and rear are still engaged. If you have an open differential in the from with the CAD flat towing is OK because the drive shaft wont turn. The differential just spins the half-shaft in the axle. In the TJ the NP231 has a true neutral so you can flat tow with a solid shaft or locker.

You can put a TJ shift selector plate in a YJ NP231 to give it a true neutral.

Here is a link showing the shift selector plate: https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transfer-cases/np231

It is a lot cheaper than manual hubs.
 
Ya, definitely cheaper, about $1500-1600 cheaper!
I wouldn't bother, considering I never used to unlock hubs anyway when I had them, except long distance flat tow.
Do wish I had known about that sector shaft 3 months ago while I was doing the SYE.
Maybe when I tackle the tranny swap..someday.
Way back in my club days I did see some cool full float dial outs on rear axles for the purpose of flat tow.