Desperate is an understatement! No start issue

sarahfarideh

sarahfarideh

New Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Louisiana
Who won, first I want to say thank you to anyone who even gives this a thought because the struggle is so real right now. It's been about a year, so I can't even remember what initially happened to make her stop running, but I have a 1991 2.5 L four-cylinder she refuses to start.

Okay the problem I'm having is no start, no spark, no fuel pump.
Simple enough to solve, but here's the fun part; this is what I've done so far: I reset the timing to top dead center by putting my finger in the spark plug number one hole and turning the camshaft police until I felt the air and then stopping at zero and the rotor was in the 5 o'clock position so I figured the timing is good, I bought the factory service manual, I've replaced the computer, alternator, starter, crank position sensor, ignition, coil, distributor, wires, spark, plugs, and the battery. I've replaced every relay and fuse, I have removed the wire harness from the engine compartment and the cab and completely went over the whole thing, fixed all connections, cleaned all of the grounds, for reinstalling it I checked assistance from every wire connection to its origin location and then once I installed it, I checked proper voltage on every connection, including the fuel pump and everything is as it should be. My tachometer also isn't moving when I'm trying to crank it which tells me the crank sensor is bad although I just replaced it so I'm going to warranty it and get another one, but i'm also not getting any spark from the ignition coil so I checked the wire that goes from the coil to the computer and that's good.
Not kicking on when I turn the key on has me so bewildered because I'm getting power to it have a good ground to it. The sensor wire has no resistance and I jumped it from the battery and it worked so it's not a bad fuel pump. Also change the relay and the fuse and when I turn the key, I'm getting, the right voltage to the power distribution center, so I have no idea why the fuel pump won't turn on. I am ready to pull my hair out because I've literally been going in circles around the smallest engine ever and I cannot figure it out. It's probably something right in front of my face , but I'm missing it so if anyone can help that would be amazing.
 
When you flip the key to run (not trying to start it, just turning the stuff like the radio on), does the check engine light come on? If not, that almost always points to a PCM (computer) problem.

For the record, the tach doesn’t move when cranking. Don’t replace the crank sensor again unless you test it with a meter and determine it bad.
 
machoheadgames said:
When you flip the key to run (not trying to start it, just turning the stuff like the radio on), does the check engine light come on? If not, that almost always points to a PCM (computer) problem.

For the record, the tach doesn’t move when cranking. Don’t replace the crank sensor again unless you test it with a meter and determine it bad.
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yes the check engine light does come on
 
machoheadgames said:
And you do not hear the fuel pump at that same time? When you flip the key to on, you should hear the fuel pump buzz for a second or two and at the same time get the CEL on the dash.
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No, Im not getting the fuel pump. But the wire to the fuel pump is getting power when i turn the key and I replaced the relay and the fuse is good. I can jump it from the battery, which ive done a few times. It has fuel in the rail. I havent done a pressure test but it shoots out like a fountain when i use a screwdriver.

Is it possible that I could have flooded it and the fuel pump isnt kicking on because there is already enough fuel in the rail?
 
Flooding isn’t a thing on fuel injection. Bad injector could leak and flood a cylinder I guess but typical “you flooded it” isn’t a thing like the carburetor days.

If fuel is spraying out then it sounds like it’s pressurizing. What makes you say you don’t have the fuel pump if the power to the pump is working and you’re getting fuel?

You should get a fuel pump buzz for two key turns in a close time frame. Meaning if you were to turn the key on, off, on, off, on, it wouldn’t power the fuel pump the 3rd time. But if you walked away and came back and turned the key again, it would probably let you do two more fuel pump sprays.

I am confused on how you have power going to the pump, you had fuel at the rail and it’s pressurized enough to spray out at the test port on the rail, and yet the fuel pump isn’t working. That doesn’t really make sense.

Very much need to do a pressure test and see where you’re at.
 
are you sure about your timing? with the marks alined at 0,on compressure stroke , the rotor should be pointing at # one plug , not at 5 oclock?, correct me if i am wrong. thanks
 
sarahfarideh said:
...1991 2.5 L four-cylinder she refuses to start.


.........i'm also not getting any spark from the ignition coil.....
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this seems like the primary problem.

Does it show any codes?

If you suspect there is also sa fuel pump issue, I encourage you to get a cheap fuel pressure tester and verify fuel pressure (or lack of fuel pressure).

Just throwing it out there, distributor timing doesn't "just move" if the bolt is tight.
spontaneous tuning problems are basically never distributor positioning . Timing chains do occasionally cause spontaneous timing problems, but since you have no spark you have no timing. probably not the problem.
 
Fuel pressure testers are cheap. Really cheap. Get one. "Coming out like a fountain" doesn't indicate proper fuel pressure.

Your no spark issue could be something entirely different.

Have you checked the ASD (auto shutdown) relay?
 
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it look like you are jumping all over the place, go back and do a compression test , then check you spark, then fuel, start with basics and work up.good luck and safe driving.
 
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