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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ Build Threads & Member's Rides
1994 Hunter Green SE “Back to Stock” Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="machoheadgames" data-source="post: 441808" data-attributes="member: 18789"><p>Several years back, during part of the super long project that started disassembly of my jeep which has not seen the road since before the start of, I installed an aftermarket tank. Mainly because I knew my stock tank slosh bucket was warped and figured an aftermarket tank was a better option. </p><p></p><p>The only company to make tanks is MTS company. Anything you buy from Crown, Omix, etc; it all comes from MTS. They do an all right job, but not great. First of all, the tank is taller than stock. They say it isn’t, and that the tank is modeled after the OEM part numbers 52002633 & 52018287. I believe this to be crap. </p><p></p><p>52002633 is known to be the 20 gallon tank for 87-90 2.5L and all 20 gallon 91-93s. 52018287 is the “20 gallon” tank for 94-95. I put that in quotes because 91-95 should be the same tank, just with the fuel pump cutoff sleeves in the fill and vent tubes to prevent higher fuel flow. Personally these numbers didn’t even seem to apply to my tank. My tank had 52020142 on it which doesn’t cross reference to anything at all. Definitely was a stock tank though. </p><p></p><p>Anyways, MTS says their tank models certain stock tanks and ONLY those and that it does NOT fit export models and that if it doesn’t fit your YJ tank as a replacement, then you must have an export. That is crap. The part numbers they said theirs matched also lined up with some export part numbers. Anyways, lots of reviews saying the tank was taller. So that’s problem number one. </p><p></p><p>The fix for the taller tank is to use the Warrior products skid plate, which ends up fitting the tank properly. The Warrior skid plate is deeper. The problem with the Warrior skid plate is that it’s slots for the tank straps position the tank further to the right side of the vehicle, making the fuel hoses not reach if you have a body lift. And even without a body lift, it’s pretty far away.</p><p></p><p>Lastly, the tank barely had a slosh sump in it. It had a little square area made by some molded ridges forming a border but that’s it. Very shallow. I didn’t like that, so I decided to go back to the stock tank. </p><p></p><p>Like everyone else, my stock tank slosh bucket was bowed out. Mine was not bowed in a way that affected the fuel sending unit, but I didn’t like that it was bowed. So I took [USER=18629]@Flyer58[/USER] excellent fix and applied that to mine.</p><p></p><p>Here are his threads:</p><p></p><p><a href="https://wrangleryjforum.com/threads/15-20-gallon-fuel-tank-slosh-box-warped.27540/" target="_blank">15-20 Gallon Fuel Tank Slosh Box Warped</a></p><p></p><p><a href="https://wrangleryjforum.com/threads/fuel-tank-issues-and-fixes.29088/" target="_blank">Fuel Tank Issues and Fixes</a></p><p></p><p>I did what he did which was to use a piece of galvanized Simpson Tie-Plate. I used TP37’s, which are 3-1/8” x 7”. Folded them over long ways using a vise and a piece of thin plate to help from mashing the tie plate too tight to fit onto the slosh bucket.</p><p></p><p>30 minutes later I had two of them and slipped them on. I initially did this by hand with TP35 (3-1/8” x 5”) but didn’t feel they were long enough and I didn’t didn’t do a great job bending them. The vise worked much better. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]122731[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Fixed! </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]122732[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>After fixing that I installed the pump/sending unit. I am using a Bosch 69544 pump and installed it onto an MTS fuel sending unit. I still have the original pump and sending unit that still work. I will be saving those “just in case.”</p><p></p><p>I used a new fuel tank mat between the tank and the old skid, and also cleaned up the vent valves and put new grommets on the valves. The valves themselves seemed fine so I reused. Not much to go bad in them, and they should work fine as long as they aren’t broken or cracked, which mine weren’t. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]122733[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Tank is back in. Need to hook up the fill/vent hoses. I’m going to leave them loose because I have a body lift incoming to make more breathing room for the 30’s. </p><p></p><p>It feels good to know I have a new pump, fixed tank, and should be good to go. In doing this project this was to solve the problem mentioned above about the hose on the sending unit bursting. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]122735[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I switched to the hose supplied with the Bosch pump so hopefully no issues there.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="machoheadgames, post: 441808, member: 18789"] Several years back, during part of the super long project that started disassembly of my jeep which has not seen the road since before the start of, I installed an aftermarket tank. Mainly because I knew my stock tank slosh bucket was warped and figured an aftermarket tank was a better option. The only company to make tanks is MTS company. Anything you buy from Crown, Omix, etc; it all comes from MTS. They do an all right job, but not great. First of all, the tank is taller than stock. They say it isn’t, and that the tank is modeled after the OEM part numbers 52002633 & 52018287. I believe this to be crap. 52002633 is known to be the 20 gallon tank for 87-90 2.5L and all 20 gallon 91-93s. 52018287 is the “20 gallon” tank for 94-95. I put that in quotes because 91-95 should be the same tank, just with the fuel pump cutoff sleeves in the fill and vent tubes to prevent higher fuel flow. Personally these numbers didn’t even seem to apply to my tank. My tank had 52020142 on it which doesn’t cross reference to anything at all. Definitely was a stock tank though. Anyways, MTS says their tank models certain stock tanks and ONLY those and that it does NOT fit export models and that if it doesn’t fit your YJ tank as a replacement, then you must have an export. That is crap. The part numbers they said theirs matched also lined up with some export part numbers. Anyways, lots of reviews saying the tank was taller. So that’s problem number one. The fix for the taller tank is to use the Warrior products skid plate, which ends up fitting the tank properly. The Warrior skid plate is deeper. The problem with the Warrior skid plate is that it’s slots for the tank straps position the tank further to the right side of the vehicle, making the fuel hoses not reach if you have a body lift. And even without a body lift, it’s pretty far away. Lastly, the tank barely had a slosh sump in it. It had a little square area made by some molded ridges forming a border but that’s it. Very shallow. I didn’t like that, so I decided to go back to the stock tank. Like everyone else, my stock tank slosh bucket was bowed out. Mine was not bowed in a way that affected the fuel sending unit, but I didn’t like that it was bowed. So I took [USER=18629]@Flyer58[/USER] excellent fix and applied that to mine. Here are his threads: [URL='https://wrangleryjforum.com/threads/15-20-gallon-fuel-tank-slosh-box-warped.27540/']15-20 Gallon Fuel Tank Slosh Box Warped[/URL] [URL='https://wrangleryjforum.com/threads/fuel-tank-issues-and-fixes.29088/']Fuel Tank Issues and Fixes[/URL] I did what he did which was to use a piece of galvanized Simpson Tie-Plate. I used TP37’s, which are 3-1/8” x 7”. Folded them over long ways using a vise and a piece of thin plate to help from mashing the tie plate too tight to fit onto the slosh bucket. 30 minutes later I had two of them and slipped them on. I initially did this by hand with TP35 (3-1/8” x 5”) but didn’t feel they were long enough and I didn’t didn’t do a great job bending them. The vise worked much better. [ATTACH]122731[/ATTACH] Fixed! [ATTACH]122732[/ATTACH] After fixing that I installed the pump/sending unit. I am using a Bosch 69544 pump and installed it onto an MTS fuel sending unit. I still have the original pump and sending unit that still work. I will be saving those “just in case.” I used a new fuel tank mat between the tank and the old skid, and also cleaned up the vent valves and put new grommets on the valves. The valves themselves seemed fine so I reused. Not much to go bad in them, and they should work fine as long as they aren’t broken or cracked, which mine weren’t. [ATTACH]122733[/ATTACH] Tank is back in. Need to hook up the fill/vent hoses. I’m going to leave them loose because I have a body lift incoming to make more breathing room for the 30’s. It feels good to know I have a new pump, fixed tank, and should be good to go. In doing this project this was to solve the problem mentioned above about the hose on the sending unit bursting. [ATTACH]122735[/ATTACH] I switched to the hose supplied with the Bosch pump so hopefully no issues there. [/QUOTE]
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1994 Hunter Green SE “Back to Stock” Thread
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