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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ Build Threads & Member's Rides
1994 Hunter Green SE “Back to Stock” Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="machoheadgames" data-source="post: 441744" data-attributes="member: 18789"><p>Well, I received the new 4.56 gear set for the front. I reused the same shims I had set the previous set with and seeped a bit shallow. Reshimmed it by adding 0.005” to the pinion depth. Ended up with my pattern here:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]122715[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH]122716[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Shimmed the pinion bearings to about 13 in/lbs. It’s a bit light on the spec since the spec is more around 15-35, but 35 is quite high. 13 will be just fine and might actually last even longer. </p><p></p><p>Installed the left axle seal, the center axle bushing (plastic), and the CAD/right axle seal. Using the seal installer tool from Torque King 4x4 made it to where it could not have possibly been easier. With the bushing and the axle shafts all being new, hopefully I won’t have any leaks for a long time. The right side is notorious for leaking and usually happens after the outer shaft to inner shaft connection wears out which allows the shafts to wobble and kill the seal.</p><p></p><p>Waiting on a new used diff cover from eBay. The brand new ones I have bought from Dana and Yukon (even listed for high pinion D30) were not correct. They had the low pinion fill hole. Examples below:</p><p></p><p>Low pinion (wrong)</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]122717[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>High pinion (correct)</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]122718[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>So when I get that new cover, I can button it up and fill with oil. Already got the lubelocker gasket waiting for install. </p><p></p><p>Here’s what I can think of that’s left:</p><p></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Bleed the brake master cylinder and then all the wheels, check for any leaks</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Buy and install new parking brake cables for the D35 (old are pretty gnarly)</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Reseal the transfer case case half (leaking)</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Torque and install cotter pins on all steering components</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Drop fuel tank to change hose on sending unit (the one in there is known to burst and leave you stranded - dumb)</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Reassemble the rest of the dash including heater box</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Install battery tray and purchase and install new battery</li> </ul><p></p><p>I think that’s basically it. I need to clean the garage some more which I can now do a better job of with the front axle done. Can finally throw away a bunch of nasty paper towels.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="machoheadgames, post: 441744, member: 18789"] Well, I received the new 4.56 gear set for the front. I reused the same shims I had set the previous set with and seeped a bit shallow. Reshimmed it by adding 0.005” to the pinion depth. Ended up with my pattern here: [ATTACH]122715[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]122716[/ATTACH] Shimmed the pinion bearings to about 13 in/lbs. It’s a bit light on the spec since the spec is more around 15-35, but 35 is quite high. 13 will be just fine and might actually last even longer. Installed the left axle seal, the center axle bushing (plastic), and the CAD/right axle seal. Using the seal installer tool from Torque King 4x4 made it to where it could not have possibly been easier. With the bushing and the axle shafts all being new, hopefully I won’t have any leaks for a long time. The right side is notorious for leaking and usually happens after the outer shaft to inner shaft connection wears out which allows the shafts to wobble and kill the seal. Waiting on a new used diff cover from eBay. The brand new ones I have bought from Dana and Yukon (even listed for high pinion D30) were not correct. They had the low pinion fill hole. Examples below: Low pinion (wrong) [ATTACH]122717[/ATTACH] High pinion (correct) [ATTACH]122718[/ATTACH] So when I get that new cover, I can button it up and fill with oil. Already got the lubelocker gasket waiting for install. Here’s what I can think of that’s left: [LIST] [*]Bleed the brake master cylinder and then all the wheels, check for any leaks [*]Buy and install new parking brake cables for the D35 (old are pretty gnarly) [*]Reseal the transfer case case half (leaking) [*]Torque and install cotter pins on all steering components [*]Drop fuel tank to change hose on sending unit (the one in there is known to burst and leave you stranded - dumb) [*]Reassemble the rest of the dash including heater box [*]Install battery tray and purchase and install new battery [/LIST] I think that’s basically it. I need to clean the garage some more which I can now do a better job of with the front axle done. Can finally throw away a bunch of nasty paper towels. [/QUOTE]
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Jeep Wrangler YJ
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1994 Hunter Green SE “Back to Stock” Thread
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