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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ Build Threads & Member's Rides
1994 Hunter Green SE “Back to Stock” Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="machoheadgames" data-source="post: 439826" data-attributes="member: 18789"><p>Not much progress since the last post. Waited all week for the Revolution Gears to arrive. They arrived just as I headed out of town Friday night. Got back home last night to see them, turns out the D35 ring gear from Revolution is dual drilled. This makes sense because Dana upsized the ring gear bolts from 3/8" to 7/16" starting with model year 2003 in the TJ. Weirdly enough, the Dana gear set I originally tried had 3/8" bolt holes.</p><p></p><p>Anyways, it's obviously smarter to use the 7/16" bolts since they're stronger with more clamping force and a higher torque spec for carrying more load on the ring gear. Especially since the D35 only has 8 ring gear bolts as opposed to 10 on most other axles including D30 and D44. So, I ordered 8 Dana 7/16" bolts. Part #45784 for anyone interested.</p><p></p><p>I ordered a crush sleeve eliminator from eBay. Came with a few bent shims so I'm working through that, but it will for sure be nice to get my pinion preload dialed in with shims instead of a crush sleeve.</p><p></p><p>Now I need to figure out what I'm doing with my rear driveshaft. I still have the stock front driveshaft which I rebuilt and installed new u-joints in. No issues there, it has no slop and it won't be spinning often anyways due to the CAD. For the rear driveshaft, I bought one off of eBay, but I'm not happy with the quality. The tube is pitted/rough and clearly rusted away in spots, with a black paint job over it to cover it up.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]121994[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Since my YJ is a 1994, it has the 1330 rear axle u-joint as all '94-'95 models did. I wanted to maintain the year specific change as part of my going to stock plan, so I bought a 1330 yoke from Denny's Driveshaft. Doing so means buying a driveshaft used limits me to those 2 years of production on eBay or similar...or I can buy from another year and use a conversion u-joint (1310 to 1330), which I don't want to do.</p><p></p><p>I was considering Tom Wood's for a stock shaft, but I think I'm going to go with Denny's. Denny's spins them crazy fast (machine goes up to 10,000 rpm) on the balancing which ensures they will have no vibrations at any point. Denny's takes into account your engine's redline, your axle gears, your tire size, your maximum governed speed, and determines where the max speed is the driveshaft could end up at, and they balance it to above that. I think TW puts out a good product but they like to see lower driveline speeds than I will be running and I don't want to put myself or TW in an awkward situation in case vibes do occur where I blame the shaft and they blame my driveline speeds. My driveline speeds will be 3200 at 60 due to 4.56 & 30s which is not negligible.</p><p></p><p>So I'm leaning towards Denny's. They'll build it with all Spicer parts, they'll do the 1310 and 1330 ends, they'll use whatever tubing I want (probably keep it 2.5" x 0.083" like stock), and they'll paint it a nice black to protect against corrosion. Seems like the best option overall and out of the 20 years of people posting on the internet about their driveshafts in various forums, I've only seen good results.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="machoheadgames, post: 439826, member: 18789"] Not much progress since the last post. Waited all week for the Revolution Gears to arrive. They arrived just as I headed out of town Friday night. Got back home last night to see them, turns out the D35 ring gear from Revolution is dual drilled. This makes sense because Dana upsized the ring gear bolts from 3/8" to 7/16" starting with model year 2003 in the TJ. Weirdly enough, the Dana gear set I originally tried had 3/8" bolt holes. Anyways, it's obviously smarter to use the 7/16" bolts since they're stronger with more clamping force and a higher torque spec for carrying more load on the ring gear. Especially since the D35 only has 8 ring gear bolts as opposed to 10 on most other axles including D30 and D44. So, I ordered 8 Dana 7/16" bolts. Part #45784 for anyone interested. I ordered a crush sleeve eliminator from eBay. Came with a few bent shims so I'm working through that, but it will for sure be nice to get my pinion preload dialed in with shims instead of a crush sleeve. Now I need to figure out what I'm doing with my rear driveshaft. I still have the stock front driveshaft which I rebuilt and installed new u-joints in. No issues there, it has no slop and it won't be spinning often anyways due to the CAD. For the rear driveshaft, I bought one off of eBay, but I'm not happy with the quality. The tube is pitted/rough and clearly rusted away in spots, with a black paint job over it to cover it up. [ATTACH alt="IMG_2271.JPG"]121994[/ATTACH] Since my YJ is a 1994, it has the 1330 rear axle u-joint as all '94-'95 models did. I wanted to maintain the year specific change as part of my going to stock plan, so I bought a 1330 yoke from Denny's Driveshaft. Doing so means buying a driveshaft used limits me to those 2 years of production on eBay or similar...or I can buy from another year and use a conversion u-joint (1310 to 1330), which I don't want to do. I was considering Tom Wood's for a stock shaft, but I think I'm going to go with Denny's. Denny's spins them crazy fast (machine goes up to 10,000 rpm) on the balancing which ensures they will have no vibrations at any point. Denny's takes into account your engine's redline, your axle gears, your tire size, your maximum governed speed, and determines where the max speed is the driveshaft could end up at, and they balance it to above that. I think TW puts out a good product but they like to see lower driveline speeds than I will be running and I don't want to put myself or TW in an awkward situation in case vibes do occur where I blame the shaft and they blame my driveline speeds. My driveline speeds will be 3200 at 60 due to 4.56 & 30s which is not negligible. So I'm leaning towards Denny's. They'll build it with all Spicer parts, they'll do the 1310 and 1330 ends, they'll use whatever tubing I want (probably keep it 2.5" x 0.083" like stock), and they'll paint it a nice black to protect against corrosion. Seems like the best option overall and out of the 20 years of people posting on the internet about their driveshafts in various forums, I've only seen good results. [/QUOTE]
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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ Build Threads & Member's Rides
1994 Hunter Green SE “Back to Stock” Thread
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