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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ Build Threads & Member's Rides
1994 Hunter Green SE “Back to Stock” Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="machoheadgames" data-source="post: 439755" data-attributes="member: 18789"><p><h2>Transfer Case Rebuild and Back-to-Stock Conversion</h2><p>I still have my original 1994 transfer case that came in my YJ. The past few days have been spent getting it to where I need it to be now. It has been through a few projects over the years. When I first lifted the YJ with the Rough Country 2.5" suspension in January 2014, I initially installed a t-case drop. I was not really happy with the results of that and the still present vibes, so a few months later I caved and bought an SYE (Rugged Ridge brand) and had a custom double cardan shaft locally built. I was not too pleased with the Rugged Ridge SYE. The output shaft seal leaked right out of the box. The tail housing did not do a good job of supporting the oil pump like the JB Conversions and stock tail housings do. Next time I opened it up, the oil pump tabs were actually broke, so I needed a new pump. Overall it was just a cheap kit and the quality showed - sadly I didn't save all that much $ vs a standard JB conversions at the time either, so I should have just gone JB in the first place. Oh well, live and learn.</p><p></p><p>That was back in 2014, then in 2021 I bought a JB Conversions standard SYE and a JB rebuild kit. I also ordered a 6 pinion planetery, a wide chain kit, and a true neutral shift plate. I rebuilt the t-case with all the new parts and installed it. Funny enough, I still have not driven since then. Now that plans have changed and I went back to stock, it was the best course of action for me to return the t-case back to stock as well....so I did.</p><p></p><p>I picked up a 1989 transfer case off FB marketplace for parts. It came out of a 4 cylinder so it had the wrong input gear. I tore down the '89 t-case and set aside all the parts for future use. Mainly I needed the mainshaft with sprockets, the front driveshaft sprocket, the synchro, and the tail housing pieces.</p><p></p><p>I tore down my own t-case that had all the parts in it from a few years ago. I ordered another JB rebuild kit (mostly for the seals, I kept most of the (old but still unused) JB bearings intact and reused them. I removed all the SYE parts and the wide chain kit. I'm eventually going to build up the spare transfer case with these parts and sell it. Since I had the 6 pinion planetary and it requires no extra work to install, I reused it. I ordered a new Borg Warner chain, an aluminum range fork, a new tailhousing extension, and a new front yoke. I also picked up a new Mopar vacuum switch since I am reinstating the CAD system.</p><p></p><p>I spent the last two days doing cleanup of gasket and reassembly. One snag I ran into was the mode fork length. For whatever reason, early (88-89) YJ NP231s had a longer rod attached to the mode fork (the fork that shifts from 2HI to 4HI). This rod extends through the rear half of the case. In stock form, its length is no problem, obviously. With SYE kits, the rod needs to be shortened because the SYE kits are made to be compatible with the later shorter rod only. Since I am going to rebuild an SYE case and sell it, I decided to use my shorter 1994 mode fork rod in the spare case, and used the old rod in my case. Otherwise, I would have needed to cut the longer rod short to use it in the SYE case I intend on selling. They both perform the same, they're just different so no downside to using the older one. I'll post a photo to show what I'm talking about. Left is the one I'm using in the stock rebuild case, right is the one from my 94 going into the SYE case I'll sell.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]121957[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I also did not reuse the range fork (HI-N-L shift) from the '89 transfer case. Early models came with a really crappy steel shift fork that over time can bend and stop shifting properly. My 94 fork was fine, but there is a newer version called 17833, which I bought from AllState gear. I used that one. Photos attached.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]121960[/ATTACH][ATTACH]121961[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Finished the job last night and reinstalled. Not too bad, I just hate dealing with RTV and scraping old gasket. Time consuming, and makes a mess. I used liquid thread sealer on a bunch of the bolts - any bolt hole that reaches into the internal case, which is basically every single bolt except for the case half bolts. But all the tail housing, tail extension, and front input bearing cover bolts all reach into the oiled area, so they got sealer.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]121958[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>One thing is for certain - my driveline angles will be good! The pinion angle is high here, but that's because of my welded perches on the custom D44. The D35 will be at the perfect angle, just like stock, once it's back in. Just waiting on Revolution to ship me my 4.56 gears and then I can finally wrap that project up.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH]121959[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I have an all new slip yoke from Spicer, and I bought a stock 94-95 6 cyl manual driveshaft off eBay. That driveshaft has the 1330 rear axle u-joint as all 94-95s did, so I ordered a new 1310 and 1330 u-joint to rebuild the shaft. I'm going to hold off on that until the rear axle is in. I’ll build it up now, but not install until rear axle is installed. At that point, I'll install the rebuilt driveshaft w/ slip yoke into the Jeep and hook it up to the rear axle. I don't want to install it and then not have a yoke to bolt it to since my existing axle I’m going to remove is 1310.</p><p></p><p>I'm going to work on installing the vacuum harness, skid plate, and transfer case shifter today after work. Then once the driveline is back up in its normal height, I'll drain and fill both t-case and transmission. I'm going to run Driven Oil 80W-90 GL4 in both, as ATF is known to mist out of the t-case over time and the fill runs low. Gear oil will likely provide a bit of extra protection from wear anyways, and probably lower the noise too. We'll see.</p><p></p><p>Making progress!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="machoheadgames, post: 439755, member: 18789"] [HEADING=1]Transfer Case Rebuild and Back-to-Stock Conversion[/HEADING] I still have my original 1994 transfer case that came in my YJ. The past few days have been spent getting it to where I need it to be now. It has been through a few projects over the years. When I first lifted the YJ with the Rough Country 2.5" suspension in January 2014, I initially installed a t-case drop. I was not really happy with the results of that and the still present vibes, so a few months later I caved and bought an SYE (Rugged Ridge brand) and had a custom double cardan shaft locally built. I was not too pleased with the Rugged Ridge SYE. The output shaft seal leaked right out of the box. The tail housing did not do a good job of supporting the oil pump like the JB Conversions and stock tail housings do. Next time I opened it up, the oil pump tabs were actually broke, so I needed a new pump. Overall it was just a cheap kit and the quality showed - sadly I didn't save all that much $ vs a standard JB conversions at the time either, so I should have just gone JB in the first place. Oh well, live and learn. That was back in 2014, then in 2021 I bought a JB Conversions standard SYE and a JB rebuild kit. I also ordered a 6 pinion planetery, a wide chain kit, and a true neutral shift plate. I rebuilt the t-case with all the new parts and installed it. Funny enough, I still have not driven since then. Now that plans have changed and I went back to stock, it was the best course of action for me to return the t-case back to stock as well....so I did. I picked up a 1989 transfer case off FB marketplace for parts. It came out of a 4 cylinder so it had the wrong input gear. I tore down the '89 t-case and set aside all the parts for future use. Mainly I needed the mainshaft with sprockets, the front driveshaft sprocket, the synchro, and the tail housing pieces. I tore down my own t-case that had all the parts in it from a few years ago. I ordered another JB rebuild kit (mostly for the seals, I kept most of the (old but still unused) JB bearings intact and reused them. I removed all the SYE parts and the wide chain kit. I'm eventually going to build up the spare transfer case with these parts and sell it. Since I had the 6 pinion planetary and it requires no extra work to install, I reused it. I ordered a new Borg Warner chain, an aluminum range fork, a new tailhousing extension, and a new front yoke. I also picked up a new Mopar vacuum switch since I am reinstating the CAD system. I spent the last two days doing cleanup of gasket and reassembly. One snag I ran into was the mode fork length. For whatever reason, early (88-89) YJ NP231s had a longer rod attached to the mode fork (the fork that shifts from 2HI to 4HI). This rod extends through the rear half of the case. In stock form, its length is no problem, obviously. With SYE kits, the rod needs to be shortened because the SYE kits are made to be compatible with the later shorter rod only. Since I am going to rebuild an SYE case and sell it, I decided to use my shorter 1994 mode fork rod in the spare case, and used the old rod in my case. Otherwise, I would have needed to cut the longer rod short to use it in the SYE case I intend on selling. They both perform the same, they're just different so no downside to using the older one. I'll post a photo to show what I'm talking about. Left is the one I'm using in the stock rebuild case, right is the one from my 94 going into the SYE case I'll sell. [ATTACH alt="IMG_0821.JPEG"]121957[/ATTACH] I also did not reuse the range fork (HI-N-L shift) from the '89 transfer case. Early models came with a really crappy steel shift fork that over time can bend and stop shifting properly. My 94 fork was fine, but there is a newer version called 17833, which I bought from AllState gear. I used that one. Photos attached. [ATTACH alt="IMG_0811.JPG"]121960[/ATTACH][ATTACH alt="IMG_0824.JPEG"]121961[/ATTACH] Finished the job last night and reinstalled. Not too bad, I just hate dealing with RTV and scraping old gasket. Time consuming, and makes a mess. I used liquid thread sealer on a bunch of the bolts - any bolt hole that reaches into the internal case, which is basically every single bolt except for the case half bolts. But all the tail housing, tail extension, and front input bearing cover bolts all reach into the oiled area, so they got sealer. [ATTACH alt="IMG_0822.JPEG"]121958[/ATTACH] One thing is for certain - my driveline angles will be good! The pinion angle is high here, but that's because of my welded perches on the custom D44. The D35 will be at the perfect angle, just like stock, once it's back in. Just waiting on Revolution to ship me my 4.56 gears and then I can finally wrap that project up. [ATTACH alt="IMG_0823.JPEG"]121959[/ATTACH] I have an all new slip yoke from Spicer, and I bought a stock 94-95 6 cyl manual driveshaft off eBay. That driveshaft has the 1330 rear axle u-joint as all 94-95s did, so I ordered a new 1310 and 1330 u-joint to rebuild the shaft. I'm going to hold off on that until the rear axle is in. I’ll build it up now, but not install until rear axle is installed. At that point, I'll install the rebuilt driveshaft w/ slip yoke into the Jeep and hook it up to the rear axle. I don't want to install it and then not have a yoke to bolt it to since my existing axle I’m going to remove is 1310. I'm going to work on installing the vacuum harness, skid plate, and transfer case shifter today after work. Then once the driveline is back up in its normal height, I'll drain and fill both t-case and transmission. I'm going to run Driven Oil 80W-90 GL4 in both, as ATF is known to mist out of the t-case over time and the fill runs low. Gear oil will likely provide a bit of extra protection from wear anyways, and probably lower the noise too. We'll see. Making progress! [/QUOTE]
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1994 Hunter Green SE “Back to Stock” Thread
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