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Could be that channel in the head unit, or a chaffed wire.

3.07 was the standard gearing if I remember correctly. Mine had the optional 3.55. It should be on the diff tags. There is a reference doc somewhere that tells what is interchangeable on the various years. I don't know if the motor mounts are different. You might check Novak or Advance...

When I bought my 92 4.0 in 1993, I drove both the 4.2 and 4.0 5 spd Wranglers. The 4.0 is a night and day difference. No way I was buying one with a 4.2.

The 4.2 only had 110 HP or so. The 4.0 was 180 HP. So, 65% more HP. My 92 4.0 Islander 5 spd would do 100 MPH back when it was on 225/75-15s, 3.55 gears. Only did that once. It's just on 30x9.5s now, but will run 75 MPH all day on the interstate with the AC on. You're probably going to...

It looks like the bumper mount nuts are still inside the frame rails. Cancel the Chilton's order and get the FSM from Resources here. The factory parts books are there also.

I was blowing coils right and left on mine. MOPAR MSD BWD All made in China, would last weeks to months, maybe a yr. Finally got a Blue Streak by Standard on it and it's been good since Apr 2020. Made in Poland.

The only thing that comes to mind is you might have a weak coil. Since it is not firing on starting fluid or gas, maybe the spark is too weak.

If the PCM spits out the 55 code, the PCM is at least alive, there are codes for various PCM failures as well.

Did it store any codes? Usually a flashing engine light is misfires.

If the cam/crank timing is off, I would think your compression numbers would be low.

Sounds like you had it in correctly to start with then. Not sure why it's not at least trying to run on starting fluid. Just throwing out anything I can think of: Is the crank pulley in good shape? If the outer ring with the timing mark on it separates from the inner portion, the timing...

I would describe it as a gurgling, or underwater sound. Mine didn't backfire or try to start at all, just cranked and cranked. But the sound was definitely weird.

It won't take but a couple of minutes to find out.

With the cap off, align the timing mark on the crank with TDC. The rotor will either be pointing to cyl 1 or cyl 6. If cyl 1, rotate crank until timing marks align again. Rotor will now be point at cyl 6. Pull the distributor and align rotor with cyl 1. 180 deg change in the rotor position.

That's correct, but if you're not getting any bang on starting fluid and you know you have spark, I'd flip it 180 just to be sure. Been there done that myself when I replaced the timing set and distributor.

If you have spark and it won't run on starting fluid, almost certain the distributor is 180 out.

No, did you take it out at any time?

Did you have the distributor out?

Will it go into R with the engine off?

Also, you can't adjust the timing on a 92, so that's not the issue.