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Y8888y876⁶

Y8888y876⁶

^^This.^^ Also you might want to check for vacuum leaks. With the engine running, spray the a little carb cleaner on each vacuum connection listen for change in rpm. Also grab each connection and give it a wiggle, again listen for changes in rpm. Replace any vacuum hoses that are questionable...

For what it's worth. My jeep came with a factory soft top and the corresponding holes drilled in the windshield frame. It is still solid and rust free.

Weird. I just had the one hose with 2 different ends. I made a custom braized brass adapter, mostly because I had it apart and didn't want to wait for shipping. For the 90° elbow, I inserted a spring in the hose to keep it from kinking. That's a good point though, that hose would probably be...

I recommend replacing EVERY soft rubber fuel line when you replace the pump. There's one that's ⅜" on one end and 5/16" on the other end. You should order that one with the pump so you have it on hand. The rest you can replace with bulk fuel line from the parts store. Make sure it's rated...

Here's where I decided to re-mount my disco brackets. They don't seem to rub even at full flex. I'm gonna go test them properly this weekend 😉

Good timing on this thread. We have a Honda Accord (most stolen car in America) . It has 2 kill switches, one disables the fuel pump relay and the other one keeps the engine from cranking. They are far apart from each other and well hidden. Both must be [on] to start the car. If we have to go...

For what it's worth, I am 100 percent happy with my Spartan Helical LSD in the front diff. Just need to be extra gentle on icy roads. Don't try to throttle into a corner on slick roads and it works fine. Off road, it's friggin awesome. That thing climbes like a beast.

The disconnect brackets are designed to go up on the coer/inner fender. I removed mine because I am running 33x12.50s and my tires rub on them. I am going to make custom brackets that move the pins back toward the middle of the wheel wells. With the 31s, they were fine and barley rubbed.

Zone offroad swaybar disconnect bracket, mounted in the wrong place.

I don't know about hoarding, but here's what I have on hand: Crank position sensor, ecm, fuel pump, alternator, coil, serpentine belt, rad hoses, u joints, front axle shafts, and a few other odds and ends. I pack these parts when I go out on long trail runs, along with the tools to swap the parts.

Last October, I was out wheelin and bent the driver side swaybar pin. It was twisted pretty good and made it impossible to reconnect the sway bar. I bought a new u bolt plate but just never got around to installing it. I drove around with the swaybar disconnected for 6 months with no problems...

"The Jeep" ...sometimes: "Stoopid Jeep" ... ...sometimes: "Stoopid #U(K!NG, piece of $#IT Jeep!"

Greyhound ships pretty cheap. Just wrap the $#!t out of them.

Not in perfect condition but they're passable. 👌 I cleaned and tuned a pair of Yamaha V-Star carbs and was paid a pair of TJ upper sliders😎 I don't think I'd pay 750 bucks for a set of these, but 2 ½ hours labor after work seems like a good deal.

It took a couple hours, but I think it's a good patern. Backlash is .006. That went together way easier than last time. Practice makes perfect? Anyway, the jeep should go back together pretty quickly now. ...Stoopid Jeep

Finally got around to tearing down the rear end. Tomorrow all the parts will get a thorough cleaning and everything will get laid out and ready for setup. ...l think I might be done rock crawling 🤔

Solved, kind of. The little hook that retracts when you lock the door, is badly worn and wasn't quite triggering the mechanism to release the latches. I had to remove the inner panel and unscrew the latch cover. Since I wasn't able to get to the Allen screws on the edge of the door, I had to...

There's a Haynes in my tool bag. It's been a great resource.