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Ahh youre right about the shock mounts and pinion angle. I get the YJ and TJ Dana 35’s mixed up. Thank you.

Exactly, you can see how the bracket pushes the shock body away from the axle tube. As pinion angle goes up, the shock gets closer to the axle tube. Also, the added diameter of some shocks can soak up that distance between the axle tube and shock body.

Depends on tire size, which can dictate pinion angle. The more angle you have, the closer the shock body gets to the axle housing by virtue of the factory shock mount when at ride at.

Not much.

Im thinking that is exactly the reason. Up travel will need some room and the shock bodies are wider.

https://seatbeltrestore.com/ These guys build seat belts for most auto manufactures. They have a 24 turn around on repairs if you ship them yours. Not sure what the turn around would be for color change, but chances are they can do it.

Sounds like a well documented rebuild with photos could benefit folks in the future. I say go for it.

Since packaging is an issue with the 2” and if you had to use a smaller tube for the A pillars you could use chromoly tubing. The strength gained with chromoly would make up for the smaller outside diameter. Just spit balling here.

The key to happiness is many Jeeps.

Damn, if you really want it, I would suggest writing a letter explaining how long you’ve wanted it and what you would do with it if they were to sell it to you. Also, showing up with the cash in hand would likely help force his hand into selling it.

Shes a beauty isnt she? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-Jeep-Wrangler-/284398302270?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

Any update on this? It’s been months and I’m just curious.

Scratch the poison spyder stuff. While their cage does look nice, the front a pillar “legs” are not ideal when it comes to strength. There’s room around the dash and the door to run a simple tube all the way to the floor of the tub. Also, if I were you, I would consider adding sandwich plates...

Stick with collins bros as they should be factory windows which you know will be correct. if at all possible, I’d ask collins bros to look for windows from a door of the same year and windows that have the factory Mopar logo on them.

Does the cast split into two halves? Looks as though there is a seam. Does it have any electrical connections coming from it that you can trace?

Seems like a fair price to start at, you can always go down a few notches if no one bites. A factory YJ hardtop in good shape is becoming increasingly harder to come by. It may be worth it to post your top and doors here on this forum as everyone here are YJ guys.

Yea, your rig would greatly benefit on road from lower gears if adding much taller and heavier tires.

What brand O2 sensor did you put in the manifold?

Possibly a winch controller. What writing is left on it?

Thank you. I’ll start with 35 spline stuff, the 300m from spidertrax and plan on using ARB’s front and rear. If I find myself breaking it, I can always upgrade to the 40 spline stuff in the future.