Performance camshaft for a 2.5

There is no cam in the world that will make that 2.5L happy running 35” tires with 4.11 gears. Even the 4.0 doesn’t do very well with that setup and it has 50% more horsepower and torque. Regear it to 5.13 and consider stepping down the tires to 32” or so if you want it to perform decently.

machoheadgames said:

There is no cam in the world that will make that 2.5L happy running 35” tires with 4.11 gears. Even the 4.0 doesn’t do very well with that setup and it has 50% more horsepower and torque. Regear it to 5.13 and consider stepping down the tires to 32” or so if you want it to perform decently.

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You're absolutely right about the 2.5L, However, the 4.2 & 4.0L's can both take advantage of billet roller camshafts that'll have ya north of 300hp/tq , but I still say a regear is best.

campersam9 said:

I have a 1994 jeep wrangler 2.5L with 4.11 gear ratio using 35" tires. 130 miles
I was looking into putting in a low torque camshaft. Or lower the gear ratio to help out with the 35" tires. I can afford one change. What will give me the most performance for my money?

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Get rid of the 4 squirrels and go with an I6 and your options broaden by A LOT!. However, its not cheap to do it right, you get what you pay for... these aren't SBC's.

PCS said:

You're absolutely right about the 2.5L, However, the 4.2 & 4.0L's can both take advantage of billet roller camshafts that'll have ya north of 300hp/tq , but I still say a regear is best.

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A cam can improve things but that alone isn’t going to bring a 112/235 HP/TQ engine or a 180/225 HP/TQ engine up to 300/300. Even strokers barely get up that high.

machoheadgames said:

A cam can improve things but that alone isn’t going to bring a 112/235 HP/TQ engine or a 180/225 HP/TQ engine up to 300/300. Even strokers barely get up that high.

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A new billet roller is leaps and bounds better than the flat tappets that came in these engines just by themselves with a variety of grinds, but of course you'd pair it with a slightly modified to balls out modified head to get the best results, OR a high compression build like a 258 with a Newcomer CNC head, Edelbrock / 4.0 headswap (7120/0630) , those are the two things that matter the most with these engines, Camshaft & Head. Degreing your camshaft is highly recommended, a step a lot of guys skip and they just line up their dots.

Newcomer Racing has been building Strokers that BASE at 300/300 for a number of years now and regularly builds strokers that produce 500,600,700,800 plus hp/tq reliably, be it NA, EFI, Fuel Injection, Turbo. So far, the record is 1,080 hp / 1017 Ft-lbs from one of his stroker builds and that beast is out there in the wild in someone's Jeep. Lets fill in the gaps a little bit bro.

Side Note, just bolting on a set of roller rockers is worth 10-15 hp

Newcomer Racing <--- Camshafts

Second from the last option on that page is the camshaft I chose for my 258 Stroker build.
NR-131-HR-SR (244/252 108 .586"/.586") Powerband 3,000-6,600rpm's talk about a noise maker this one fits the bill, straight up race or hard core street machine if you dare. If you have never heard a built inline with a nasty cam trust us they sound amazing, similar to a BBC if using a 6 to 1 header. This one is made for naturally aspirated applications where compression will be your friend. 3,000 stall required, or sticks, grab a good clutch and give it hell. "McNasty"