Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ shifters

1993 YJ transfer case rear driveshaft seal

bcemrich

bcemrich

New Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2024
Messages
19
Location
Rhode Island
Hello,

A quick question. What is the best/proper seal for the rear output shaft seal on the transfer case? The one currently installed and leaking on my YJ has the extended black snout like the first picture but all my searches for replacement seals looks like the red one on the left. The one with the black rubber snout seems to only be available from an Ebay seller and at a premium compared the more conventional looking seal on the right. Thanks, Brian
Screenshot 2025-07-05 135902.png
Screenshot 2025-07-05 140008.png
 
All of the OEM style I can recall seeing were neither of what was posted, they were instead like this:

IMG_1676.jpeg

The flat style like the second pic isn’t OEM and it doesn’t provide any protection against dust sealing, but it does work. I picked up a duralast 4370n (like the one I posted) in a pinch yesterday, but it did not look like that, it looked like the flat seal from pic 2.

If it’s me for a long term choice, I’m choosing the one I posted since it looked most closely to stock. If you go to rockauto and choose drivetrain and rear output shaft seal, you’ll see similar looking ones from a few brands. I’d probably go with one of those if I were you.

I have a national on order and it just delivered today, but I wanted to be able to drive yesterday so I picked up the duralast temporarily.

I would suggest also changing the output shaft bushing in the tail cone. Seems like that is the initial cause of issues because it lets the slip yoke move a bit and ruin the seal.

Also make sure it’s not the actual slip yoke leaking. Seen a few posted lately where fluid is coming out of it right by the u-joint, but the overall wet area makes you think it’s the seal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sunsport and bcemrich
machoheadgames said:
All of the OEM style I can recall seeing were neither of what was posted, they were instead like this:

View attachment 124044

The flat style like the second pic isn’t OEM and it doesn’t provide any protection against dust sealing, but it does work. I picked up a duralast 4370n (like the one I posted) in a pinch yesterday, but it did not look like that, it looked like the flat seal from pic 2.

If it’s me for a long term choice, I’m choosing the one I posted since it looked most closely to stock. If you go to rockauto and choose drivetrain and rear output shaft seal, you’ll see similar looking ones from a few brands. I’d probably go with one of those if I were you.

I have a national on order and it just delivered today, but I wanted to be able to drive yesterday so I picked up the duralast temporarily.

I would suggest also changing the output shaft bushing in the tail cone. Seems like that is the initial cause of issues because it lets the slip yoke move a bit and ruin the seal.

Also make sure it’s not the actual slip yoke leaking. Seen a few posted lately where fluid is coming out of it right by the u-joint, but the overall wet area makes you think it’s the seal.
Click to expand...

Thank you! I have used Rockauto for my other vehicles but being new to owning a YJ I was looking at the jeep specific online retailers to make sure I got the right one but didn't see a seal like the National 4370N like you posted. When I get back under the jeep I will take a closer look at the u joint and tail cone bushing. My 1993 F1Crusty with the 5-speed manual needs a new bushing for the slip yoke; I will practice on that one. :O
 
  • Like
Reactions: machoheadgames
bcemrich said:
Thank you! I have used Rockauto for my other vehicles but being new to owning a YJ I was looking at the jeep specific online retailers to make sure I got the right one but didn't see a seal like the National 4370N like you posted. When I get back under the jeep I will take a closer look at the u joint and tail cone bushing. My 1993 F1Crusty with the 5-speed manual needs a new bushing for the slip yoke; I will practice on that one. :O
Click to expand...

The bushing is a bit of a pain to change, I think typically the layman’s tool to get it done is a 30 mm socket, but it’s not perfect. You have to be paying attention so you don’t booger up the new one or the housing.

I way overpaid to get the 2 factory drivers and driver handle from eBay. Totally unnecessary, but I like buying tools and I only need the smallest justification before I impulse buy. So now I can change all the 10-20 year wear interval bushings I want lol.

IMG_1351.jpeg
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ shifters
Top Bottom