Recent content by ytradio

I would not waste money on the Dana 35 rear end. I ended up selling mine for $100 and also the Dana 30 front for $100. Wrestled with the idea of building the 30 but I was looking at $2500 plus with everything that it needed and the options that I wanted. With the RCV axles add another $1000 to...

No I am not sorry.

Yes I totally agree with you sir. Almost impossible to get a direct answer to a question without the “just leave it stock” opinions. These forums aren’t for gearheads anymore.

Just depends on what color you want it to be

My 4.2 has a flow master and no cat, just pipe. I have to keep opening the hood for people to show them it’s not a V8.

As far as I am aware. Maybe some others will chime in soon.

My research shows tops will fit 87 to 95. Some differences like some years had a T handle latch and some had no latch like the one on my 89. The top shuts first then the tailgate, the tailgate holds it closed. I believe that either top will fit just fine.

If you can drill the fitting and get an easy out to extract it. And when ever you put a new one in use antiseez. Good luck

I personally have had good luck using small wire wheels made for use on drills or 1/4 inch impacts. Have also used these for cleaning up head gasket mating surfaces. Was suggested this by a machinist, you absolutely do NOT want to use a 4 inch high speed grinder with a wire wheel. I know that...

Mine has 2 v belts , no serpentine.

Tom Woods driveshaft website has a calculator for shims that will tell you the correct shim and you can order them there. You can also call them and they will help you with it.

Just replaced mine yesterday with a GM HEI style for the Jeep from JEGS. My Jeep had a fairly new looking HEI one in it when I got it and it ran but started having issues and discovered a problem with it so got a new one. These things ranged from $50 on Amazon to $220 at summit and some even...

Not that I am aware of, my 89 does not. Possibly one with factory a/c.

Assembly lube is just that, used to lubricate parts until the oil makes it there. If you got oil on it for lube that should be fine. My understanding is that the assembly lube at least the white lithium grease type, has been used for years to assemble complete engines that may not be started...

Were you able to get any assembly lube on the new seal surface or lube of any kind on it? The amount of time that it can take to get enough oil pumped through the crank shaft to get any oil on this new seal may have been the cause of this.