Recent content by TRevs

Well, I sold the YJ. Sad to see it go, but I hae just too may cars projects and maintenance going on. We got a new JLU for my wife to drive so something had to go. I still have the LJ so I still get the old-school Jeep experience; just in a 20 year old vehicle instead of a 30 year old one...

There has been no more dripping the last month or two. I started wondering if the leak was really from the RMS/oil pan because there were traces of oil on the engine block, so I used an engine degreaser and no more drips. I wonder if there is a small leak higher up, but I’m still not sure. As...

Price drop!

It’s time to sell my ‘classic’ Jeep; we need to make room for a newer one. I have owned it for a little more than 3 years, and it’s sad to let it go. I’ve worked on restoring and refreshing many of its 30-year-old parts so you don’t have to. Doors on or off, top up or down, it’s been a lot of...

If I purchased a 20-30 year old jeep for use as a daily driver and light trails, I would do exactly what i did with mine: basically nothing. 30-31” tires 2.5” lift on stock shackles SYE/ DC driveshaft only if needed Stock gears if 4.10 Restore interior and exterior as needed. Rust mitigation...

I ordered parts on RockAuto: $8 resistor and a $12 blower motor on closeout. I dropped the heater box leaving the dash in place. Had to transfer the fan to the new motor, and splice the wiring, and it all worked. Those resistors are delicate; I mushed one putting it in the duct (the thermal...

I’m planning to replace the motor and hopefully replace the thermal fuse and not buy another resistor assembly.

My heater blower motor is acting up again. A while back it wasn’t working at all and was blowing fuses. After a long chase it turned out to be a failed diode in a parallel part of the circuit. But for the past month or so I’ve had only hi speed; lo and med are dead. I figured it was the resistor...

Anyplace there’s rubber it can wear out and clunk. Definitely replace those sway bar bushings, but it could also be the sway bar links, tie rod ends, drag link, track bar, any of the 11 body mounts, ball joints at the steering knuckles, loose bolts on the shackles or axle U-bolts, broken exhaust...

It was much easier to remove the upper half that had been in there for ~2 months that the original one. I sprayed brake cleaner in the block groove over the crank and cleaned everything well. At a suggestion from the TJ forum, I jacked up the back of the jeep to keep draining oil away from the...

RMS Attempt #2: I drained the oil last week and remove the oil pan. I ordered the victor-reinz seal and the Crown version. Since the fel-pro seal apparently didn’t work, I wanted to try a different brand. I looked closely at the old seal and the two new options and decided the victor-reinz...

Is it a “whistle” or a “squeal?” Belt squeal is pretty distinctive and recognizable to anyone who grew up in the 80’s. Whistle is air moving rapidly over a small gap; e.g. throttle body, intake leak. Could also be a bad bearing on one of the belt pulleys, usually the idler. Post a short...

Carburetor cleaner is a stronger solvent than brake cleaner. I’d give it a try with a plastic/nylon scraper

I noticed the oil pressure on the dash has been a bit high. The needle gets up to 45-50 quickly, and will stay 60-65 while driving. That wouldn’t cause an RMS leak right? There’s no oil pressure in the pan? Maybe I dislodged some sludge with the first RMS job (there was some on the screen...

Mine’s dripping as bad as before I got in there. It’ll leave a few drops on the garage every time I park. I’m tired of parking over cardboard, so I’m definitely going to give it another try. Hopefully I can re-use the oil pan gasket. I found some good tips on the TJ forum, including cleaning...