Recent content by TRevs

Carburetor cleaner is a stronger solvent than brake cleaner. I’d give it a try with a plastic/nylon scraper

I noticed the oil pressure on the dash has been a bit high. The needle gets up to 45-50 quickly, and will stay 60-65 while driving. That wouldn’t cause an RMS leak right? There’s no oil pressure in the pan? Maybe I dislodged some sludge with the first RMS job (there was some on the screen...

Mine’s dripping as bad as before I got in there. It’ll leave a few drops on the garage every time I park. I’m tired of parking over cardboard, so I’m definitely going to give it another try. Hopefully I can re-use the oil pan gasket. I found some good tips on the TJ forum, including cleaning...

After a couple weeks the RMS leak came back. I foolishly thought I got it right the first time. I tightened the oil pan bolts a bit more but to no avail. I guess I’ll try again in a few weeks when I have the time. I also installed the JeepCables Daylight wiring harness. The turn signal...

I think you could get a vehicle for “weekend fun in the Arizona desert” near your budget, but you’d have to live with some major compromises. You can save major $ if you are willing to not have factory doors or a complete top. Likewise if you can accept moderate dents in the body, and worn out...

I’m definitely wanting a premadeKit/harness (with instructions if possible). I hadn’t heard of putco but it looks good to me.

I have H4’s on the LJ and I think I might get them for the YJ too. It has some basic LED headlamps that are ok, but I like a stock glass look better. The main issue is I’m going through turn signal flashers about one per year. The first one flashed very slowly then died completely. The second...

Welp i started it after letting it sit for a couple days and it sounds normal now. That’s a relief. Now i get to wait on pins and needles to see if the leak actually stops

Here’s audio of the engine: https://m.youtube.com/shorts/103WzU9XGOk

Man, it’s been over a year and I don’t exactly remember what the final solution was. I think I decided that one of the rods was too short and had to be lengthened. Try popping off both rods from the handle and see if that loosens it up enough to unlatch.

I ran it again last night and it sounded more normal. Still maybe a whine and a tick , but improved. I have some audio I’ll upload later. The smoke was coming from the exhaust pipe; I changed the antifreeze and some must have tracked down the exhaust, but whatever it was burned off completely...

I followed the FSM as closely as I could: motor oil on crank seal surface; i turned the motor to get it 360°. Motor oil on the lip of the upper seal. Oil on the lip of the lower seal and a little soap on the outer surface of the lower.

Possible causes: -Crank bearing caps aren’t seated properly (I removed #7 of course and loosened 4-5-6 to try and get a little more clearance above the crankshaft for the upper seal)? -There is some rubbing/burning of excess RTV at the rear seal. I didn’t over-apply it, but I saw a tiny bit...

I got the antifreeze replaced; I still needed 10 minutes to get that large clamp on but some cheap Amzon clamp pliers made it possible. I reinstalled the oil pan and spark plugs (I had removed them so it would be easier to turn the crankshaft when replacing the rear main seal), added oil to...

The kind with a cable? I’d never seen those before but would be worth it; i’ve been wrestling with in on my back for too long