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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ Build Threads & Member's Rides
The Diesel Jeep Build
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<blockquote data-quote="RangerRick" data-source="post: 428884" data-attributes="member: 19360"><p>I hope to have several pictures this weekend of the progress that has been made.</p><p></p><p> Also going to do some more work on the D44 front axle swapping out the CJ style knuckles that I originally had modified and stubs for the full size GM flat-top knuckles and F150 rotors, Will swap the CJ disk brakes off and use the GM Modine caliper brakes onto it at the same time. Will rework the steering slightly and hope to install a better intermediate steering shaft when I upgrade the pump to the big AGR rock box. Also going to move the front leaf spring mounts forward one frame hole to reduce the shackle rake or angle up front once the Cummins is installed.</p><p></p><p>Beginning to mock up the new motor mounts using parts from the M.O.R.E. GM V8 mounts and some off the step van. Will use fluid filled mounts to reduce HVN as mentioned earlier.</p><p></p><p>I may have to reset the rear axle spring perch angles and will want to re-visit the way I did the lower shock mounts using the parts from the Ford explorer once the driveline is installed for the double cardan rear drive shaft I built. The drive shaft will need to have a length change more than likely since the GM LM7 Vortec was removed and going back to manual from an automatic transmission here.</p><p></p><p>Right now the rear lower shocks attach to the spring plates down low to allow for longer shocks and more travel. They stick down rather low and may get hung up in rough obstacles. I think I will weld tabs on the axle tube to move them up a bit and am also investigating into a U-bolt reversal kit to reduce things that can get snagged under the Jeep when 4-wheeling. The shocks the way they were mounted helped to reduce or eliminate axle wrap under hard acceleration or torque is the reason for mounting them the way I did. That and the parts were virtually free off the donor Ford Explorer. I always like free parts when there's a justified use!</p><p></p><p>I am also on the hunt for a pilot bushing to use with the ZF s5-42 5-speed clutch and have been told that a "stock" one will fit but have not confirmed that the bore in the crankshaft is the same. Further measurements required I suspect.</p><p></p><p>The Explorer disc parking brakes are all connected and fully functional now, pictures to follow on how I did it since YJ's use almost the exact same parking brake pedal assembly in them taken from the later CJ's. Using a mixture of factory Explorer 8.8 parts, CJ parts and TJ/YJ parts I was able to make it all work like it would have come from from the factory. NO FUNKY CLAMPS or HOME MADE PARTS HERE AT ALL. Very happy with the outcome there!</p><p></p><p>As I said, pictures will be forthcoming this weekend hopefully as I can.</p><p></p><p>Getting ready to do the "F350 clutch pedal bearing "mod" soon when I do the clutch master/slave hydraulic line conversion. There are writeups all over the web about the clutch pin wear when a poly bushing wears out that was a cheap excuse for a bearing by bean counters over at FoMoCo. I also noticed it affects many YJ and CJ owners where when the eyelet nylon bushing wears out, it starts to saw through the pivot pin that the master cylinder pushrod is connected to. If I can get up under there, I will show pictures of the wear and what happens to the pin. Basically, it creates a large amount of slop and can eventually cause failure if enough time goes by. Easy fix but will take some additional parts with time to do it.</p><p></p><p>I am really happy with the outcome of the front and rear axle swaps. Both look factory and retain close to the stock WT track width of the CJ but had to go out slightly due to wanting to stay close to OEM parts. Again, my motto is try to use something factory by one of the big 3 so parts aren't a problem if something fails. Always improve from stock if possible without it necessarily being 100% evident to the naked eye.</p><p></p><p>Again, anyone wanting to swap their ticking timebomb D35 or AMC20 corporate in their CJ or YJ, this is a nice budget friendly swap that can be done easily enough in your driveway on the weekend. Especially those with the YJ that has almost the same width D35 and the same bolt pattern as Ford used on their 8.8 in the Explorers. I had the housing narrowed to "center" the axle carrier and make it closer to CJ WT axle width. I also drilled in the 5x5.5 bolt pattern on the axle flanges. Good news though is on a YJ, you don't need to do ANY of this at all making it even easier on you since both are 5x4.5 bolt circle pattern, they match. A bonus is 4-wheel disc brakes in the end too! No, you don't have to swap the proportioning valve or any of that if you don't want to. It's not entirely necessary and I have done the disc swap or axle swap on several TJ's, YJ's and now even a CJ.</p><p></p><p>I also swapped a D44 up front and that was a lot more work. However, if you are a YJ owner and aren't going to do a coil suspension conversion, a used D44 out of a TJ/LJ Rubicon will fit if you shave the brackets off and add leaf spring perches instead. Everything else is easy enough to make work by swapping parts etc. Otherwise, there is always a new housing or a D30 High Pinion non-vacuum disconnect out of a late model 1997-1999 XJ Cherokee. This will give your earlier YJ the larger U joints and also non disconnect axle tubes and retain the high pinion gearset. Again, if not doing a coil spring conversion, shave off the brackets and add your leaf perches....</p><p></p><p>More to come including pics......</p><p></p><p></p><p>RR</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117338[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117339[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]117340[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RangerRick, post: 428884, member: 19360"] I hope to have several pictures this weekend of the progress that has been made. Also going to do some more work on the D44 front axle swapping out the CJ style knuckles that I originally had modified and stubs for the full size GM flat-top knuckles and F150 rotors, Will swap the CJ disk brakes off and use the GM Modine caliper brakes onto it at the same time. Will rework the steering slightly and hope to install a better intermediate steering shaft when I upgrade the pump to the big AGR rock box. Also going to move the front leaf spring mounts forward one frame hole to reduce the shackle rake or angle up front once the Cummins is installed. Beginning to mock up the new motor mounts using parts from the M.O.R.E. GM V8 mounts and some off the step van. Will use fluid filled mounts to reduce HVN as mentioned earlier. I may have to reset the rear axle spring perch angles and will want to re-visit the way I did the lower shock mounts using the parts from the Ford explorer once the driveline is installed for the double cardan rear drive shaft I built. The drive shaft will need to have a length change more than likely since the GM LM7 Vortec was removed and going back to manual from an automatic transmission here. Right now the rear lower shocks attach to the spring plates down low to allow for longer shocks and more travel. They stick down rather low and may get hung up in rough obstacles. I think I will weld tabs on the axle tube to move them up a bit and am also investigating into a U-bolt reversal kit to reduce things that can get snagged under the Jeep when 4-wheeling. The shocks the way they were mounted helped to reduce or eliminate axle wrap under hard acceleration or torque is the reason for mounting them the way I did. That and the parts were virtually free off the donor Ford Explorer. I always like free parts when there's a justified use! I am also on the hunt for a pilot bushing to use with the ZF s5-42 5-speed clutch and have been told that a "stock" one will fit but have not confirmed that the bore in the crankshaft is the same. Further measurements required I suspect. The Explorer disc parking brakes are all connected and fully functional now, pictures to follow on how I did it since YJ's use almost the exact same parking brake pedal assembly in them taken from the later CJ's. Using a mixture of factory Explorer 8.8 parts, CJ parts and TJ/YJ parts I was able to make it all work like it would have come from from the factory. NO FUNKY CLAMPS or HOME MADE PARTS HERE AT ALL. Very happy with the outcome there! As I said, pictures will be forthcoming this weekend hopefully as I can. Getting ready to do the "F350 clutch pedal bearing "mod" soon when I do the clutch master/slave hydraulic line conversion. There are writeups all over the web about the clutch pin wear when a poly bushing wears out that was a cheap excuse for a bearing by bean counters over at FoMoCo. I also noticed it affects many YJ and CJ owners where when the eyelet nylon bushing wears out, it starts to saw through the pivot pin that the master cylinder pushrod is connected to. If I can get up under there, I will show pictures of the wear and what happens to the pin. Basically, it creates a large amount of slop and can eventually cause failure if enough time goes by. Easy fix but will take some additional parts with time to do it. I am really happy with the outcome of the front and rear axle swaps. Both look factory and retain close to the stock WT track width of the CJ but had to go out slightly due to wanting to stay close to OEM parts. Again, my motto is try to use something factory by one of the big 3 so parts aren't a problem if something fails. Always improve from stock if possible without it necessarily being 100% evident to the naked eye. Again, anyone wanting to swap their ticking timebomb D35 or AMC20 corporate in their CJ or YJ, this is a nice budget friendly swap that can be done easily enough in your driveway on the weekend. Especially those with the YJ that has almost the same width D35 and the same bolt pattern as Ford used on their 8.8 in the Explorers. I had the housing narrowed to "center" the axle carrier and make it closer to CJ WT axle width. I also drilled in the 5x5.5 bolt pattern on the axle flanges. Good news though is on a YJ, you don't need to do ANY of this at all making it even easier on you since both are 5x4.5 bolt circle pattern, they match. A bonus is 4-wheel disc brakes in the end too! No, you don't have to swap the proportioning valve or any of that if you don't want to. It's not entirely necessary and I have done the disc swap or axle swap on several TJ's, YJ's and now even a CJ. I also swapped a D44 up front and that was a lot more work. However, if you are a YJ owner and aren't going to do a coil suspension conversion, a used D44 out of a TJ/LJ Rubicon will fit if you shave the brackets off and add leaf spring perches instead. Everything else is easy enough to make work by swapping parts etc. Otherwise, there is always a new housing or a D30 High Pinion non-vacuum disconnect out of a late model 1997-1999 XJ Cherokee. This will give your earlier YJ the larger U joints and also non disconnect axle tubes and retain the high pinion gearset. Again, if not doing a coil spring conversion, shave off the brackets and add your leaf perches.... More to come including pics...... RR [ATTACH=full]117338[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]117339[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]117340[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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