Roll Cage

[jeepjoe43]

During one of my more mundane chores at work I was daydreaming about to-do list items that don't involve fixing problems.
And I was thinking about the roll cage, front hoop to the floor, not just windshield support handles.

Has anyone here done a cage in their YJ?
Simple hoop was the original plan when talked to a fabricator, but he could only bend 1-3/4" tube, I want 2".
Poison Spyder has a lower stanchion kit I'm considering using, plate steel arrangement that also bolts to the dash.
What I like about it is No bends.

Iv'e done cages in other Jeeps (and even used one once} so for me, it's mandatory.
Safety is obviously the biggest motivator, but I have ulterior motives for a cage.
Like being able to anchor my bikini to it so I can drop the windshield on the hood and not lose my shade.

 

[Gilaguy23]

I cant see the windshield bars doing much in a flip but they do make good grab bars. Being you've had others with full cages I wont tell you to consider foot and leg room. Thats always been an issue with me as well as using the E brake. It sure is nice having a good full cage around you. Id love to make a metal or rigid poly or?? bikini top for mine. A family cage conversion, full front with a non flapping in the wind and a tad wider than the typical Bikini and Id be real thrilled.

 

[jeepjoe43]

Ya, I'm figuring the E-brake may become unusable without getting creative, but I never use it anyway.
As far as leg room, I'm a lot better off than the flatty was.
My biggest problem with cages, is getting a passenger to NOT hang on to it!

 

[Fouledplugs]

During one of my more mundane chores at work I was daydreaming about to-do list items that don't involve fixing problems.
And I was thinking about the roll cage, front hoop to the floor, not just windshield support handles.

Has anyone here done a cage in their YJ?
Simple hoop was the original plan when talked to a fabricator, but he could only bend 1-3/4" tube, I want 2".
Poison Spyder has a lower stanchion kit I'm considering using, plate steel arrangement that also bolts to the dash.
What I like about it is No bends.

Iv'e done cages in other Jeeps (and even used one once} so for me, it's mandatory.
Safety is obviously the biggest motivator, but I have ulterior motives for a cage.
Like being able to anchor my bikini to it so I can drop the windshield on the hood and not lose my shade.

Scratch the poison spyder stuff. While their cage does look nice, the front a pillar “legs” are not ideal when it comes to strength.

There’s room around the dash and the door to run a simple tube all the way to the floor of the tub.

Also, if I were you, I would consider adding sandwich plates and DOM tube from the floor plates inside the tub to the frame for even more insurance. Below, if you look closely, you can spot the sandwich plate that connects the B pillar roll cage plate inside the tub to a plate outside the tub and then a tube welded to the frame…

 

[Gilaguy23]

Nice rig!! Looks a little different that the pic in your avatar.

 

[jeepjoe43]

I figured you would weigh in, being a serious wheeler I knew you'd have a cage, and your input is much appreciated!
BTW, I like the grab handles, that is something I also intend on doing.
Like i said my fabricator can't bend 2" and since I intend to keep the factory "Racer-back" 2-1/2" roll bar, I don't want 1-3/4" tube.
Thus the PS lower stanchions make sense, though I'm not crazy about the style, No bending of tube would be required.
But, 1-3/4" will be fine for the reinforcements I want;
Top A pillar corners to the center of the factory roll bar.
A pillar floor plate to the middle of the factory B pillar, just above fender well.
Middle of the B pillar to the base of the C pillar (kicker) along the top of the fender well.
I've thrown around the idea of frame tie, but if the cage is solid enough i don't see a need for it.
My tub is completely free of rust.
And I don't like the idea of welding on a frame if it isn't necessary, frames are tempered from the factory and welding compromises that.
Backing plates, Yes, preferably with the nuts welded to it.

 

[Fouledplugs]

Nice rig!! Looks a little different that the pic in your avatar.

The key to happiness is many Jeeps.

 

[Fouledplugs]

I figured you would weigh in, being a serious wheeler I knew you'd have a cage, and your input is much appreciated!
BTW, I like the grab handles, that is something I also intend on doing.
Like i said my fabricator can't bend 2" and since I intend to keep the factory "Racer-back" 2-1/2" roll bar, I don't want 1-3/4" tube.
Thus the PS lower stanchions make sense, though I'm not crazy about the style, No bending of tube would be required.
But, 1-3/4" will be fine for the reinforcements I want;
Top A pillar corners to the center of the factory roll bar.
A pillar floor plate to the middle of the factory B pillar, just above fender well.
Middle of the B pillar to the base of the C pillar (kicker) along the top of the fender well.
I've thrown around the idea of frame tie, but if the cage is solid enough i don't see a need for it.
My tub is completely free of rust.
And I don't like the idea of welding on a frame if it isn't necessary, frames are tempered from the factory and welding compromises that.
Backing plates, Yes, preferably with the nuts welded to it.

Since packaging is an issue with the 2” and if you had to use a smaller tube for the A pillars you could use chromoly tubing. The strength gained with chromoly would make up for the smaller outside diameter.

Just spit balling here.

 

[jeepjoe43]

Not so much an issue of adequacy as appearance, I just like the look of 2", especially where it will meet the 2-1/2" factory bar.
Nothing wrong with 1-3/4", if the whole cage is made from it, and there is a lot of it.
I would buy one pre-assembled, but I just don't like the styles being offered, I don't need or want a family cage...
Maybe I'm just being picky, or I'm old school?
I also want it powder coated to match my Smittybilt bumpers and I don't have any means of transporting it.