Quick grind

mdsaunders

mdsaunders

New Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Michigan
93" yj 350swap and 700r4 trans. I have a loud grind when I first push on the gas but goes away after pushing further in. The. A loud grind again when letting off at the very end. Can't tell if it's coming from the front of the engine or t-case area. Most prevalent when going over 30+mph. Ujoints "seem" good. Also at higher speeds when I put it in neutral (test for grind) it ground the time until putting it back in gear. Can't figure it out, help.
 
This smacks of a drive line problem.
Lifted Jeeps with the wrong drive shaft angle will grind every time in a float/coast condition.
Because the rear is so short, getting it right is always tough, the more lift, the worse the problem.
Looks like you have pretty healthy lift.
First, check your U-joints, if you haven't already.
Do you still have the factory slip yoke rear set-up?
If it has a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) does it have a CV shaft?
For a CV, the rear axle yoke needs to be at the same angle as the shaft.
If it has a conventional 2 piece telescoping shaft (or the slip yoke style) the t-case and axle yokes need to be the same angle (parallel).
 
jeepjoe43 said:
This smacks of a drive line problem.
Lifted Jeeps with the wrong drive shaft angle will grind every time in a float/coast condition.
Because the rear is so short, getting it right is always tough, the more lift, the worse the problem.
Looks like you have pretty healthy lift.
First, check your U-joints, if you haven't already.
Do you still have the factory slip yoke rear set-up?
If it has a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) does it have a CV shaft?
For a CV, the rear axle yoke needs to be at the same angle as the shaft.
If it has a conventional 2 piece telescoping shaft (or the slip yoke style) the t-case and axle yokes need to be the same angle (parallel).
Click to expand...
I believe it is the factory slip. Straight shaft to a tilted D35. Straight off the axel but for sure tight tilt on the t-case end of u-joint. That can causes grinding noise ? Maybe new shaft is the fix?
 
That will absolutely do it.
With your drive shaft angle the fix is SYE with a CV shaft.
I left the angle shims on my lift springs not realizing this conversion was needed.
Maybe could have taken them out, but probably would need to extend the shaft.
But after the horror of discovering the factory set-up, wasn't going waste my time with it.
(I only went up 2-1/2", so that may not even be an option for you)
I immediately lost the ability to more than 45 without it sounding like I was stuffing it in reverse.
Don't try to buy an off the shelf shaft, have one custom built, I got mine from Tom Woods Custom.
And they were actually less expensive than generic length off the shelf.
They have a lot useful info on their site.
https://4xshaft.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw...tddueaH5aBjU9hV-Z9IdF3Co98St6LEQaAmWmEALw_wcB
 
jeepjoe43 said:
SYE install will require removal of the t-case, that's the hard part.
Once it's out, installing the SYE is straight forward.
Click to expand...
Getting it done, transfer case internals is beyond my skill set. But it's a case of who ya know not what ya know. Local shop that builds sand dune toys is tackling it.
 
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