Suppose I'll add to the build threads here and create my own. If you're reading through my thread I hope you'll find something useful in it or get inspired to build your rig. I like to think my build is a little unique compared to other builds, you're going to see stuff that's been done and probably a thing or two you haven't seen done to a YJ before.
I'm going with as much made in the USA parts as I can ordering from companies like GenRight Offroad, PSC, FlowKooler, Kentrol to name a few, and I'm using a local engine builder to build a one off unique 258 who's known for building the most powerful Jeep Inline 6 engines on the planet, Keith Newcomer of Newcomer Racing. He's going to feature my build on his personal YouTube channel and do a dyno session so we all get to see what it does. I'm not going for 1000 HP or 800 hp... I told him I'd be happy in the 350/400 range, and there are no guesstimates as to what this engine will produce as its a kinda of prototype build so we will just have to wait and see.
I suppose I can tell you he's done a full port and polish on my Edelbrock head and installed larger valves and 1.7 Newcomer Racing spec adjustable Scorpion Roller Rockers. He also ported and polished the Clifford 6=8 4bbl intake manifold and I've added a 1" spacer and topped that off with an MSD EFI Atomic 4bbl kit, but for the dyno he's going to break it in with his trusty Holley 4 barrel often seen on his YouTube builds. I'm not able to talk about the bottom-end or camshaft selection, you'll just have to wait and see it in the video. Just know, I've spared no expense for this build and its the most expensive part of my YJ build, holding that in-between the frame are Brown Dog Super Mount Engine Plates & 1" polyurethane engine mounts.
I've chose to back that up with a brand new AX15 from Advanced Adapters, Keith said I'll have to go easy, you can't give it the beans out of the hole or I'll tear the transmission up. He told me he's tore 5 of em out on his Jeeps, I think he said his XJ is just north of 700HP and it pulls the front wheels off the ground, he had or has a Wrangler that'll do the same thing... there is a video of his XJ and you can see the ass end squat as the front comes up and as it comes down it gets squirrelly. I think the video is on Tiktok somewhere.
The NP231 is getting a full rebuild and upgrade with 6 planetary gears, wide chain and beefier shift-fork. Adams driveshafts tied to the Dana30/35, now hang on, I can hear you already...I do not have the C-clip 35, I have the bolt-in 35 which is a little better, the 35 has Yukon 4.88's, Grizzly Locker, Yukon nodular iron cover and forged 1310 yoke, I'm using Lube Locker gaskets in place of RTV, its got Yukon 30 spline chromoly axles, wheel studs and a Wilwood BIG disc brake kit conversion and finished it off with a TNT truss. This Super35 should be pretty solid. I've covered all the Yukon parts for both axles with Yukon's YES Plan, if you're not familiar, the YES plan is a buy up so that if you ever break anything, they replace it No questions asked for as long as you own the Jeep. You get certificates in the mail to use with a special code on em for each part covered, at the time of purchase it costed me an additional $500.00 even to cover all the Yukon parts, you have 30 days from the time you purchase your parts to call and add the Yes Plan.
The Dana 30, Just like above all the same Yukon parts except the kit eliminates the vacuum advance non-sense with a block off plate and you no long have 3 piece axles. Teraflex premium ball-joints which also have a lifetime warranty, if they ever fail (they say they won't) they'll replace them free of charge, they come in the fanciest case you'll ever see too :haha: 10 Factory axle seals, Rugged Ridge 1ton steering & tie rod ends, and a Wilwood BIG disc brake kit finish this axle off, I also have Wilwood extended long braided brake hoses for both axles.
I'm going to be selling my factory front fenders and inner fender wells they're clean and rust free. I went with GenRight high steel 4" flat fenders and aluminum inner fender wells and 4" rear steel fenders. GenRight 20gal fuel tank and Crawler skid-plate with the easy access panel. GenRight front stubby winch bumper and a Smittybilt XRC rear bumper w/swing-out tire carrier, hitch and Smittybilt XRC Rock Sliders.
I have a 6" lift kit with Teraflex Revolver Shackles and 1" body lift, every bushing from the engine mounts down is polyurethane, so engine mounts, transmission mount,suspension, body mounts all poly. In my opinion you either go with one or the other, to help with squeaking I have greaseible poly bushings and I'm using Amsoil NLGI #1 100% synthetic polymeric off-road grease, its water resistant, stays in place and keeps dirt out.
I'm an Amsoil member (not a dealer) so why not take advantage of the cheaper prices and get every lubricant I need for the YJ from them. I use their products in our other Jeeps too. I didn't mention it when talking about the engine but, I provided Newcomer Racing with Amsoil break-in oil for my engine. Keith uses Valvoline VR1 and that's great oil, but I only want Amsoil run in my stuff and I already had a case, so why not.
There are so many more parts and items to talk about that I have (my storage building looks like a parts warehouse) but I'm going to cut it off here and I'll just pick the rest up as I go along. Thanks for following along.
I'm going with as much made in the USA parts as I can ordering from companies like GenRight Offroad, PSC, FlowKooler, Kentrol to name a few, and I'm using a local engine builder to build a one off unique 258 who's known for building the most powerful Jeep Inline 6 engines on the planet, Keith Newcomer of Newcomer Racing. He's going to feature my build on his personal YouTube channel and do a dyno session so we all get to see what it does. I'm not going for 1000 HP or 800 hp... I told him I'd be happy in the 350/400 range, and there are no guesstimates as to what this engine will produce as its a kinda of prototype build so we will just have to wait and see.
I suppose I can tell you he's done a full port and polish on my Edelbrock head and installed larger valves and 1.7 Newcomer Racing spec adjustable Scorpion Roller Rockers. He also ported and polished the Clifford 6=8 4bbl intake manifold and I've added a 1" spacer and topped that off with an MSD EFI Atomic 4bbl kit, but for the dyno he's going to break it in with his trusty Holley 4 barrel often seen on his YouTube builds. I'm not able to talk about the bottom-end or camshaft selection, you'll just have to wait and see it in the video. Just know, I've spared no expense for this build and its the most expensive part of my YJ build, holding that in-between the frame are Brown Dog Super Mount Engine Plates & 1" polyurethane engine mounts.
I've chose to back that up with a brand new AX15 from Advanced Adapters, Keith said I'll have to go easy, you can't give it the beans out of the hole or I'll tear the transmission up. He told me he's tore 5 of em out on his Jeeps, I think he said his XJ is just north of 700HP and it pulls the front wheels off the ground, he had or has a Wrangler that'll do the same thing... there is a video of his XJ and you can see the ass end squat as the front comes up and as it comes down it gets squirrelly. I think the video is on Tiktok somewhere.
The NP231 is getting a full rebuild and upgrade with 6 planetary gears, wide chain and beefier shift-fork. Adams driveshafts tied to the Dana30/35, now hang on, I can hear you already...I do not have the C-clip 35, I have the bolt-in 35 which is a little better, the 35 has Yukon 4.88's, Grizzly Locker, Yukon nodular iron cover and forged 1310 yoke, I'm using Lube Locker gaskets in place of RTV, its got Yukon 30 spline chromoly axles, wheel studs and a Wilwood BIG disc brake kit conversion and finished it off with a TNT truss. This Super35 should be pretty solid. I've covered all the Yukon parts for both axles with Yukon's YES Plan, if you're not familiar, the YES plan is a buy up so that if you ever break anything, they replace it No questions asked for as long as you own the Jeep. You get certificates in the mail to use with a special code on em for each part covered, at the time of purchase it costed me an additional $500.00 even to cover all the Yukon parts, you have 30 days from the time you purchase your parts to call and add the Yes Plan.
The Dana 30, Just like above all the same Yukon parts except the kit eliminates the vacuum advance non-sense with a block off plate and you no long have 3 piece axles. Teraflex premium ball-joints which also have a lifetime warranty, if they ever fail (they say they won't) they'll replace them free of charge, they come in the fanciest case you'll ever see too :haha: 10 Factory axle seals, Rugged Ridge 1ton steering & tie rod ends, and a Wilwood BIG disc brake kit finish this axle off, I also have Wilwood extended long braided brake hoses for both axles.
I'm going to be selling my factory front fenders and inner fender wells they're clean and rust free. I went with GenRight high steel 4" flat fenders and aluminum inner fender wells and 4" rear steel fenders. GenRight 20gal fuel tank and Crawler skid-plate with the easy access panel. GenRight front stubby winch bumper and a Smittybilt XRC rear bumper w/swing-out tire carrier, hitch and Smittybilt XRC Rock Sliders.
I have a 6" lift kit with Teraflex Revolver Shackles and 1" body lift, every bushing from the engine mounts down is polyurethane, so engine mounts, transmission mount,suspension, body mounts all poly. In my opinion you either go with one or the other, to help with squeaking I have greaseible poly bushings and I'm using Amsoil NLGI #1 100% synthetic polymeric off-road grease, its water resistant, stays in place and keeps dirt out.
I'm an Amsoil member (not a dealer) so why not take advantage of the cheaper prices and get every lubricant I need for the YJ from them. I use their products in our other Jeeps too. I didn't mention it when talking about the engine but, I provided Newcomer Racing with Amsoil break-in oil for my engine. Keith uses Valvoline VR1 and that's great oil, but I only want Amsoil run in my stuff and I already had a case, so why not.
There are so many more parts and items to talk about that I have (my storage building looks like a parts warehouse) but I'm going to cut it off here and I'll just pick the rest up as I go along. Thanks for following along.
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