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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ General Discussion
Newbie CAD dif 4x4 questions.
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<blockquote data-quote="machoheadgames" data-source="post: 432678" data-attributes="member: 18789"><p>You should feel a physical engagement of the transfer case when you shift to 4 hi. The shifting of the transfer case is real and it sends power out the front driveshaft immediately, it's just that the power doesn't get to the wheels until the CAD engages the front right axle shaft. So yes you should feel something. The vacuum switch gets pressed as soon as you go into 4hi or 4lo, which is when the vacuum motor begins moving the fork. </p><p></p><p>The heater control lever controls the vents, the floor or defrost air positon, pushes a button on a vacuum switch to open or close the cowl gate, and pushes the blower motor switch to cut the blower motor off (and lets go to let it run). The blower motor switch is normally closed and is momentary. So when heater is in off or vent, it holds the button down on the switch to cut off the motor. When you go into defrost or heat, it lets go of the switch and the motor runs. What speed it runs depends on the left lever which routes the power through the blower motor resistor to slow the fan down. The only vacuum based portion of the heater is the upper cowl gate which lets air into the heater system. The cowl gate is held closed by vacuum when heater is set to OFF. In all other positions (defrost, heat, vent), the vacuum switch is pushed by the heater lever which cuts off vacuum supply and the flap springs open. The lever should be operating the cowl, the two vents, and the floor/defrost flap. If it is not, you have something to fix if desired.</p><p></p><p>My recommendation for the 4wd is to get a TJ shaft but you can do the 180 flip or whatever else. I wouldn't go the cable route. It can be finicky and a pain in the ass at times. </p><p></p><p>Not sure why it's hard to start cold, don't have that problem so I don't really have a block heater to recommend.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="machoheadgames, post: 432678, member: 18789"] You should feel a physical engagement of the transfer case when you shift to 4 hi. The shifting of the transfer case is real and it sends power out the front driveshaft immediately, it's just that the power doesn't get to the wheels until the CAD engages the front right axle shaft. So yes you should feel something. The vacuum switch gets pressed as soon as you go into 4hi or 4lo, which is when the vacuum motor begins moving the fork. The heater control lever controls the vents, the floor or defrost air positon, pushes a button on a vacuum switch to open or close the cowl gate, and pushes the blower motor switch to cut the blower motor off (and lets go to let it run). The blower motor switch is normally closed and is momentary. So when heater is in off or vent, it holds the button down on the switch to cut off the motor. When you go into defrost or heat, it lets go of the switch and the motor runs. What speed it runs depends on the left lever which routes the power through the blower motor resistor to slow the fan down. The only vacuum based portion of the heater is the upper cowl gate which lets air into the heater system. The cowl gate is held closed by vacuum when heater is set to OFF. In all other positions (defrost, heat, vent), the vacuum switch is pushed by the heater lever which cuts off vacuum supply and the flap springs open. The lever should be operating the cowl, the two vents, and the floor/defrost flap. If it is not, you have something to fix if desired. My recommendation for the 4wd is to get a TJ shaft but you can do the 180 flip or whatever else. I wouldn't go the cable route. It can be finicky and a pain in the ass at times. Not sure why it's hard to start cold, don't have that problem so I don't really have a block heater to recommend. [/QUOTE]
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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ General Discussion
Newbie CAD dif 4x4 questions.
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