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<blockquote data-quote="dodgerammit" data-source="post: 441438" data-attributes="member: 21375"><p>Hey, I'm a visual person as well. Youtube university helps a lot. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite4009" alt=":LOL:" title="Laugh :LOL:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":LOL:" /></p><p></p><p>Now, what will be important is making sure you can adapt that pump to your sending unit. Well, it WILL work, but you may have to get creative.</p><p>The big issue will be tank depth vs overall length of sending unit + fuel pump.</p><p></p><p>You want the pump screen to be about 1/2" from the bottom of the tank.</p><p>This allows maximum fuel usage without sucking up sediment into the screen and clogging it.</p><p></p><p>Since you don't want to lose the fuel gauge function, you can't just cut the sending unit pickup tube anywhere.</p><p>It needs to be cut BELOW the electrics mounted on the pickup tube.</p><p></p><p>VERY IMPORTANT: Use a tubing cutter to cut the pickup tube. NOT a saw. That will leave fine burrs and metal dust to get sucked into the fuel system.</p><p></p><p>This may cause the sender and pump to be too long for the tank depth.</p><p>If this turns out to be the case, you would need to CAREFULLY bend the pickup tube BELOW the electrics at enough of an angle to allow the pump screen to sit close to the bottom. The pickup tube will kink easily, so a tubing bender for brake lines may come in handy.</p><p></p><p>The fuel pump I linked typically comes with a short section of rubber hose and some dinky plastic clamps. I use metal screw clamps instead. Using the hose, you connect the pump to the pickup . Again, refer to that picture of the modified sending unit. It shows the setup pretty well.</p><p></p><p>You will then need to connect a positive and negative wire to the pump and run them to a engine start/run source. This means you'll need to drill a small hole in the sending unit top plate for the wires to pass through. Make sure to use a rubber grommet to protect the wires from chafing. You also want to dab a bit of fuel safe sealer on the grommet to prevent fuel from leaking when you fill the tank all the way up. (Ask me how I figured that out).</p><p></p><p>The pump I purchased didn't have a positive or negative marking on the terminals. So, I tested the pump and wiring by submerging it in a small bucket of water (for safety, didn't want it to shoot fuel into my face) to make sure the electrics were connected correctly. Then ran it just enough out of the bucket to purge the water. You don't want to run fuel pumps dry for very long at all.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dodgerammit, post: 441438, member: 21375"] Hey, I'm a visual person as well. Youtube university helps a lot. :LOL: Now, what will be important is making sure you can adapt that pump to your sending unit. Well, it WILL work, but you may have to get creative. The big issue will be tank depth vs overall length of sending unit + fuel pump. You want the pump screen to be about 1/2" from the bottom of the tank. This allows maximum fuel usage without sucking up sediment into the screen and clogging it. Since you don't want to lose the fuel gauge function, you can't just cut the sending unit pickup tube anywhere. It needs to be cut BELOW the electrics mounted on the pickup tube. VERY IMPORTANT: Use a tubing cutter to cut the pickup tube. NOT a saw. That will leave fine burrs and metal dust to get sucked into the fuel system. This may cause the sender and pump to be too long for the tank depth. If this turns out to be the case, you would need to CAREFULLY bend the pickup tube BELOW the electrics at enough of an angle to allow the pump screen to sit close to the bottom. The pickup tube will kink easily, so a tubing bender for brake lines may come in handy. The fuel pump I linked typically comes with a short section of rubber hose and some dinky plastic clamps. I use metal screw clamps instead. Using the hose, you connect the pump to the pickup . Again, refer to that picture of the modified sending unit. It shows the setup pretty well. You will then need to connect a positive and negative wire to the pump and run them to a engine start/run source. This means you'll need to drill a small hole in the sending unit top plate for the wires to pass through. Make sure to use a rubber grommet to protect the wires from chafing. You also want to dab a bit of fuel safe sealer on the grommet to prevent fuel from leaking when you fill the tank all the way up. (Ask me how I figured that out). The pump I purchased didn't have a positive or negative marking on the terminals. So, I tested the pump and wiring by submerging it in a small bucket of water (for safety, didn't want it to shoot fuel into my face) to make sure the electrics were connected correctly. Then ran it just enough out of the bucket to purge the water. You don't want to run fuel pumps dry for very long at all. [/QUOTE]
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