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New Here - Drive a 1989 YJ Sahara
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<blockquote data-quote="dodgerammit" data-source="post: 441357" data-attributes="member: 21375"><p>First off, WELCOME!</p><p></p><p>Well, you have the winch. That's always my first recommendation. Make sure it's fully functional and you have all the necessary recovery gear to go with it. </p><p></p><p>I'd vote good tires first as tires can make or break your vehicles ability on the traction side of things, but you also mention lift and lockers. </p><p></p><p>If you are serious about a lift, then first I'd recommend a regear to a ratio that will work best with the tire size you want to go to in the end. Add traction aides at this time. I'm partial to truetracs myself as I do plenty of street driving and only enjoy light trail stuff (think washed out forest service roads), but lifting tires on more challenging trails can overcome them. </p><p></p><p>If the only issue with the fuel system is vapor lock, then get a small electric pump and install it in the tank on the pickup (if possible). I did this on my Grand Wagoneer's 360 before doing the LS swap and it solved the vapor lock issue completely. I used the low pressure in-tank pump from a mid 80s Ford truck with their early efi system. The in-tank pump is basically a lift-pump that supplies fuel to the high pressure unit on the frame, so it is rocking around 4-6psi and 25gph. Perfect for a carb. I shortened my pick up tube on the sending unit assembly and used a small section of rubber hose to attach the pump to the tube, making sure I measured the total length to put the pump's little filter sock within 1/2" of the tank floor. All you need is to supply a 12v when cranking/running and ground to it.</p><p></p><p>FWIW, the typical heights for tires are as follows:</p><p>up to 29"-stock</p><p>30" 1" needed (I did new stock springs and a 1" body-mount lift and it looks perfect)</p><p>31" 2-2.5" (most I've read really love Old man Emu stuff.)</p><p>33" most likely 4" from what I've seen.</p><p>You can always combine body and smaller suspension lift to help the wallet.</p><p>Note: pretty much any suspension lift is gonna require a SYE and/or new driveshaft to help with vibrations. The rear driveshaft in these things is stoopid short.</p><p></p><p>My best advice is take your time and eat the elephant one bite at a time.</p><p></p><p>Side note: Your wipers are 'parked' backwards (unless it's a RHD setup like mine) <img class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" alt="😁" title="Beaming face with smiling eyes :grin:" src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f601.png" data-shortname=":grin:" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dodgerammit, post: 441357, member: 21375"] First off, WELCOME! Well, you have the winch. That's always my first recommendation. Make sure it's fully functional and you have all the necessary recovery gear to go with it. I'd vote good tires first as tires can make or break your vehicles ability on the traction side of things, but you also mention lift and lockers. If you are serious about a lift, then first I'd recommend a regear to a ratio that will work best with the tire size you want to go to in the end. Add traction aides at this time. I'm partial to truetracs myself as I do plenty of street driving and only enjoy light trail stuff (think washed out forest service roads), but lifting tires on more challenging trails can overcome them. If the only issue with the fuel system is vapor lock, then get a small electric pump and install it in the tank on the pickup (if possible). I did this on my Grand Wagoneer's 360 before doing the LS swap and it solved the vapor lock issue completely. I used the low pressure in-tank pump from a mid 80s Ford truck with their early efi system. The in-tank pump is basically a lift-pump that supplies fuel to the high pressure unit on the frame, so it is rocking around 4-6psi and 25gph. Perfect for a carb. I shortened my pick up tube on the sending unit assembly and used a small section of rubber hose to attach the pump to the tube, making sure I measured the total length to put the pump's little filter sock within 1/2" of the tank floor. All you need is to supply a 12v when cranking/running and ground to it. FWIW, the typical heights for tires are as follows: up to 29"-stock 30" 1" needed (I did new stock springs and a 1" body-mount lift and it looks perfect) 31" 2-2.5" (most I've read really love Old man Emu stuff.) 33" most likely 4" from what I've seen. You can always combine body and smaller suspension lift to help the wallet. Note: pretty much any suspension lift is gonna require a SYE and/or new driveshaft to help with vibrations. The rear driveshaft in these things is stoopid short. My best advice is take your time and eat the elephant one bite at a time. Side note: Your wipers are 'parked' backwards (unless it's a RHD setup like mine) 😁 [/QUOTE]
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