Forums
New posts
Search forums
Image search
Shop
Amazon Store
T-Shirts
Stickers
Members
Current visitors
Supporting Member Upgrade
Sponsors
About
Log in
Register
Search
Search titles only
By:
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Image search
Search
Search titles only
By:
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Install the app
Install
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Forums
Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ General Discussion
93 YJ mirror question
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="machoheadgames" data-source="post: 432691" data-attributes="member: 18789"><p>Sorry was traveling yesterday for the holiday. </p><p></p><p>1) Hmm not sure why it would be so bad. Coolant temp sensor in good shape? Don’t base that answer off the gauge, the gauge is driven by a separate sending unit. The two wire on the thermostat housing is specifically for telling the computer when engine is warm enough so computer will run it in closed loop which saves considerable amounts of fuel. MAP sensor in good shape? Did the new O2 change anything or exact same conditions? Do the key trick (YouTube it) to check your codes - what codes do you get? If light is on then it definitely has a code or two stored and you can read them from the key. If you can’t figure out counting them post a vid and I or others will help. </p><p></p><p>2) not really. There is toe in and setting the steering wheel straight relative to the wheels. From. The factory caster is set by the welded spring perches and doesn’t change until you add longer front shackles. The longer shackles inherently rotate the axle forward which decreases the caster and makes handling suck. So stock, or not much longer than stock shackles are preferred. Caster is set by the knuckle and unit bearing which is naturally straight up and down. That doesn’t change unless you bend the axle housing. You can adjust camber and caster a bit by buying offset ball joints but I really don’t consider that to be worth it. You should not need those items. </p><p></p><p>3) redline MT90 made the most positive difference on my old transmission. It was still notchy in 3rd sometimes and 2nd when cold but it improved a lot. Not so much an additive but a full fluid replacement. Who knows what’s in yours and if it’s GL5 gear oil, it’s wrong. The manual incorrectly recommended that. </p><p></p><p>4) I’m not going to say anything like that is “normal” with Jeeps because in stock form they relatively drive like cars or at least like cars of the 90s. However issues like you say are common and they depend on quite a few variables: lift, how much lift, was a drop pitman arm used, are track bars still there, etc). The YJ has a crappy steering design which is ok in stock form but once you lift it you start seeing the flaws. Lifting it puts the drag link at angle which means when you hit bumps, the suspension compression pushes or pulls on the drag link which will rotate your steering wheel even though you’re going straight. Better steering designs would negate that but not many really exist. If you have a lift I definitely suggest a drop pitman arm if you don’t have one already. YJs came stock with a front and rear track bar or panhard bar which are supposed to locate the axles laterally. The leaf springs do a decent job of centering the axle already so many people throw out the track bars entirely. The rear track bar can be tossed out no questions. The front can too but I don’t like it that way. I have since added a track bar back to mine using a relocation bracket for my lift which also makes the track bar stay parallel with my drag link since my drag link is using a dropped pitman arm. I haven’t driven it yet but I think it’ll be pretty good when I do. </p><p></p><p>What you don’t want are the stock track bars with lifted suspension and no extension brackets. In that case you have to pull the axle over and bind the suspension to get the track bar in which is not ideal at all. It will wear out your spring bushings, provide awful ride quality, etc. </p><p></p><p>My brain doesn’t mind exercise. If you have more questions, post them. I or someone else will get to them.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="machoheadgames, post: 432691, member: 18789"] Sorry was traveling yesterday for the holiday. 1) Hmm not sure why it would be so bad. Coolant temp sensor in good shape? Don’t base that answer off the gauge, the gauge is driven by a separate sending unit. The two wire on the thermostat housing is specifically for telling the computer when engine is warm enough so computer will run it in closed loop which saves considerable amounts of fuel. MAP sensor in good shape? Did the new O2 change anything or exact same conditions? Do the key trick (YouTube it) to check your codes - what codes do you get? If light is on then it definitely has a code or two stored and you can read them from the key. If you can’t figure out counting them post a vid and I or others will help. 2) not really. There is toe in and setting the steering wheel straight relative to the wheels. From. The factory caster is set by the welded spring perches and doesn’t change until you add longer front shackles. The longer shackles inherently rotate the axle forward which decreases the caster and makes handling suck. So stock, or not much longer than stock shackles are preferred. Caster is set by the knuckle and unit bearing which is naturally straight up and down. That doesn’t change unless you bend the axle housing. You can adjust camber and caster a bit by buying offset ball joints but I really don’t consider that to be worth it. You should not need those items. 3) redline MT90 made the most positive difference on my old transmission. It was still notchy in 3rd sometimes and 2nd when cold but it improved a lot. Not so much an additive but a full fluid replacement. Who knows what’s in yours and if it’s GL5 gear oil, it’s wrong. The manual incorrectly recommended that. 4) I’m not going to say anything like that is “normal” with Jeeps because in stock form they relatively drive like cars or at least like cars of the 90s. However issues like you say are common and they depend on quite a few variables: lift, how much lift, was a drop pitman arm used, are track bars still there, etc). The YJ has a crappy steering design which is ok in stock form but once you lift it you start seeing the flaws. Lifting it puts the drag link at angle which means when you hit bumps, the suspension compression pushes or pulls on the drag link which will rotate your steering wheel even though you’re going straight. Better steering designs would negate that but not many really exist. If you have a lift I definitely suggest a drop pitman arm if you don’t have one already. YJs came stock with a front and rear track bar or panhard bar which are supposed to locate the axles laterally. The leaf springs do a decent job of centering the axle already so many people throw out the track bars entirely. The rear track bar can be tossed out no questions. The front can too but I don’t like it that way. I have since added a track bar back to mine using a relocation bracket for my lift which also makes the track bar stay parallel with my drag link since my drag link is using a dropped pitman arm. I haven’t driven it yet but I think it’ll be pretty good when I do. What you don’t want are the stock track bars with lifted suspension and no extension brackets. In that case you have to pull the axle over and bind the suspension to get the track bar in which is not ideal at all. It will wear out your spring bushings, provide awful ride quality, etc. My brain doesn’t mind exercise. If you have more questions, post them. I or someone else will get to them. [/QUOTE]
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ General Discussion
93 YJ mirror question
Top
Bottom