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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ General Discussion
Brake Power after Axle Swap
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<blockquote data-quote="machoheadgames" data-source="post: 438813" data-attributes="member: 18789"><p>That’s…not really correct. It could depend on application. Jeep is a good example. </p><p></p><p>The 91-94 4.0 YJ had a single diaphragm booster with a 1” bore cast iron master cylinder. Front disc/rear drum. The 95 introduced a dual diaphragm booster, plastic reservoir MC, still 1” bore. </p><p></p><p>The 97 TJ introduced a new master cylinder and brake booster but they were the same size and specs as 95 4.0. Same exact drums and front brakes as since 1990. </p><p></p><p>In 2003, they introduced the rear disc option for Rubicons and any Dana 44 equipped TJ. They kept the exact same combo valve, brake booster, and master cylinder. The truth is that between the stock rear disc and drums, they need the same hydraulic pressure. </p><p></p><p>You don’t want to remove any of the valving. That is what keeps the rear brakes from being too powerful and locking up. If you lock the rears, you will spin on the road. Not good. The best choice for rear disc is to leave the hydraulics completely alone. Bleed the brakes and call it done. </p><p></p><p>I’m not sure what the problem is in this post but it isn’t needing to change the hydraulics. I installed the discs and it worked perfectly fine, as it should.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="machoheadgames, post: 438813, member: 18789"] That’s…not really correct. It could depend on application. Jeep is a good example. The 91-94 4.0 YJ had a single diaphragm booster with a 1” bore cast iron master cylinder. Front disc/rear drum. The 95 introduced a dual diaphragm booster, plastic reservoir MC, still 1” bore. The 97 TJ introduced a new master cylinder and brake booster but they were the same size and specs as 95 4.0. Same exact drums and front brakes as since 1990. In 2003, they introduced the rear disc option for Rubicons and any Dana 44 equipped TJ. They kept the exact same combo valve, brake booster, and master cylinder. The truth is that between the stock rear disc and drums, they need the same hydraulic pressure. You don’t want to remove any of the valving. That is what keeps the rear brakes from being too powerful and locking up. If you lock the rears, you will spin on the road. Not good. The best choice for rear disc is to leave the hydraulics completely alone. Bleed the brakes and call it done. I’m not sure what the problem is in this post but it isn’t needing to change the hydraulics. I installed the discs and it worked perfectly fine, as it should. [/QUOTE]
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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ General Discussion
Brake Power after Axle Swap
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