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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ General Discussion
95 YJ grinding noise - 2wd to 4h while moving
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<blockquote data-quote="machoheadgames" data-source="post: 441354" data-attributes="member: 18789"><p>Hard to directly answer if a one-piece axle shaft swap would help the OP or not. Would be better to dig in and find what went wrong. I’d start at the CAD and then crack open the transfer case. It’s probably in the transfer case.</p><p></p><p>The CAD setup in stock form is actually very reliable. I didn’t have a single problem ever until I lifted mine and then the vacuum hoses barely reached anymore. They didn’t reach if you drooped the axle fully. I probably should have freed up the harness some for that, it’s clipped to the frame and I probably could have undone that for some slack. </p><p></p><p>The worst part about the CAD is that the the connection between the inner and outer shaft likes to wear as does the plastic bushing supporting the inner shaft. After a while if that happens, those two will take out the outer axle shaft seal just outboard of the CAD. So you see a lot of front YJ axles with leaky passenger sides. </p><p></p><p>1-piece is a solid swap, but it often presents vibrations from the front driveshaft spinning full time. Not always, and being stock height helps a lot. The seal needed for the 1-piece can be a bit weird. It’s a simple hammer in oil seal that fits the tube ID. You have to hammer it to the right depth or else it won’t ride on the smooth part of the shaft. You could theoretically hammer it all the way down the tube until it hit the CAD wall. So some figuring out has to be used for proper install depth. On the bright side, if you had any leaks, you could double or triple them up since the tube doesn’t care how many seals are in place.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="machoheadgames, post: 441354, member: 18789"] Hard to directly answer if a one-piece axle shaft swap would help the OP or not. Would be better to dig in and find what went wrong. I’d start at the CAD and then crack open the transfer case. It’s probably in the transfer case. The CAD setup in stock form is actually very reliable. I didn’t have a single problem ever until I lifted mine and then the vacuum hoses barely reached anymore. They didn’t reach if you drooped the axle fully. I probably should have freed up the harness some for that, it’s clipped to the frame and I probably could have undone that for some slack. The worst part about the CAD is that the the connection between the inner and outer shaft likes to wear as does the plastic bushing supporting the inner shaft. After a while if that happens, those two will take out the outer axle shaft seal just outboard of the CAD. So you see a lot of front YJ axles with leaky passenger sides. 1-piece is a solid swap, but it often presents vibrations from the front driveshaft spinning full time. Not always, and being stock height helps a lot. The seal needed for the 1-piece can be a bit weird. It’s a simple hammer in oil seal that fits the tube ID. You have to hammer it to the right depth or else it won’t ride on the smooth part of the shaft. You could theoretically hammer it all the way down the tube until it hit the CAD wall. So some figuring out has to be used for proper install depth. On the bright side, if you had any leaks, you could double or triple them up since the tube doesn’t care how many seals are in place. [/QUOTE]
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Jeep Wrangler YJ
YJ General Discussion
95 YJ grinding noise - 2wd to 4h while moving
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