93 with 4.3 and 4L60E

Thubert68

Grease junkie looking for my next fix.
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So this is a new thing for me.
New to jeeps.
New to 4x4s.
New to Chevy....
That being said, I acquired a 83 s15 Jimmy with 4.3 cpi(spider injection) and a 4l60e.
I also acquired a 93 yj 2.6 with ax5 5speed.
I lost my left leg 6 years ago in a bike wreck, so I am converting the jeep to a v6 and automatic.
I would like to eliminate as much electronics as possible by converting to a carburetor but retaining the 4l60e for the overdrive gear.
Anyone wanna jump in and give an old guy a little advice ?
 
So this is a new thing for me.
New to jeeps.
New to 4x4s.
New to Chevy....
That being said, I acquired a 83 s15 Jimmy with 4.3 cpi(spider injection) and a 4l60e.
I also acquired a 93 yj 2.6 with ax5 5speed.
I lost my left leg 6 years ago in a bike wreck, so I am converting the jeep to a v6 and automatic.
I would like to eliminate as much electronics as possible by converting to a carburetor but retaining the 4l60e for the overdrive gear.
Anyone wanna jump in and give an old guy a little advice ?

Correction...1993 Jimmy and 1993 YJ Wrangler
 
If you google '4L60e controller' you'll find standalone, aftermarket computers for your transmission that don't need the engine's fuel injection system. They're not cheap, but I don't think the GM computer's transmission controls will work without input from the EFI management system. To get away from the electronics altogether, an early 700R4 (without the torque converter lockup function) would be the next option.

What gears and tires do you have on the Jeep? I did the swap with a 4.3 and 700R4. My yj was an automatic with 3:55 gears and 31 inch tires, and the overdrive in the GM tranny is not really in the best range. I'm planning on switching to 3:73 gears, which should be much better. Your gears are probably lower already with the manual transmission.
 
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I would have to research that a little more for the ratio of the standard dana 35 rear axle .
Problem is I ha e the whole setup from the 93 Jimmy and just wanted to use everything I have without putting a fortune into it.
Not to mention that I really want to have a vehicle with as few electronics as possible . See I kinda wanna have something that will be usable after the world goes to crap....lol
I will get more information and get back to you
 
I would definitely look into swapping your 4L60e for a 700R4 or 4L60 (no e) in that case. The "e" at the end stands for electronic and that unit won't shift without a computer. The 700R4/4L60 was the non-electronic version of that same transmission. The 700R4 does have an electric lockup function, but early versions were controlled by a vacuum switch rather than a computer.

'nuther thing I'd do if I was building a yj into an apocalypse rig would be to put a Ford 8.8 rear end in it. The rear diffs in the 95+ Ford Explorers were a close match, much stronger, and available in all the same gear ratios (and with factory limited slip and disk brakes in some cases). If you're running a Dana 35, the clock is ticking on it, pure and simple. The fact is that the stock yj was a very light duty rig.
 
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How would the Jimmy rear end work.
Seems like any rear end would work as long as it's got leaf springs.
I know that's a very broad statement...lol
I do have a resource for a ranger 8.8 also
 
The possible issues are width, lug bolt pattern and available gearing. The Explorer 8.8 has the same bolt pattern and is witin .5 in of the Jeep axle for width. I don't know about the fit, but the GM rear end would almost have to be an improvement; they sure don't have a reputation for blowing up like the yj's axles do. With the 8.8 you will have to redo the spring mounts. There isn't a pure bolt-in upgrade for the D35.
 
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Ten fo
Thanks again. Been busy pulling the drivetrain out of the Jimmy and working on the new chicken pen today.
Trying to keep up with the thread.
 
Kinda like the transfer case in the Jimmy. It has a solenoid to engage the 4wd.
Will make fitment simple as I won't need to align the linkage.
2 different places have stand alone kits for the 4l60e that is much cheaper than another transmission also...painless and novak.
Harness will be between 300-500 & a transmission is close to 1000
 
If it was me, I'd just keep the fuel injection on the engine, and take the whole control system intact. It seems like having the transmission dependent on a computer defeats the purpose of ditching the engine's computer. I'd trust the GM brain for both reliability and availability of replacements before the aftermarket tranny controller.
 
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Transgo and others offer full manual valve bodies on 4L60E’s to include your 1993 model.

Once installed, the driver controls each gear selection. No clutch, no computer, and no worries.