92 YJ cargo deck removal

Jeepster92

New Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2021
Messages
10
Location
Ohio
I have a 92 YJ that needs the rear cargo area replaced. I am wondering what is the best way to do this. I am thinking of cutting along the edges with a angle grinder. As far as installation goes I have thought about using rivits. I do not have a welder and no knowledge of welding. I would appreciate any advice.
 
Evening...is your intention to replace the entire cargo floor, meaning from the edge of the kick-up forward of the back seat to the tailgate and from wheel well to wheel well?
 
Yes. It's really rusty. I have a brand new replacement cargo floor pan for it. It is rusted in two right behind the rear seat. I tried, without tools, to pull it back some but it must be attached somehow in the middle. I am wondering if there is something underneath that I might cut that is vital.
 
The only vital parts at risk are the fuel lines, which are pinched between the cross member and the tub, drivers side.
If I remember correctly, there are 2 floor supports, possibly 3, running from rail to rail that also have your body mounts in them.
I believe they are fore and aft of the fuel tank, you may have to drill out some spot welds.
Unfortunately, that may require dropping the tank.
 
Yes. It's really rusty. I have a brand new replacement cargo floor pan for it. It is rusted in two right behind the rear seat. I tried, without tools, to pull it back some but it must be attached somehow in the middle. I am wondering if there is something underneath that I might cut that is vital.
It's attached to the frame by two body mounts...I recommend if the floor pan is still solid on either side of the rusted areas that you cut that area out and measure/cut out a section of the new floor pan and have it welded in...JeepJoe43 is spot on in that there area also fuel lines on the left side to consider. It is a bit complex under the floor...which ever way you decide to go, I don't recommend a rivet installation...the floor is integral to the overall rigidity of the vehicle, and in my opinion you'll compromise that by using rivets vs welding. If that's outside of your skill-set try pinging an automotive trade school that instructs in body repair...might be a good opportunity for some hands-on instruction/training for the students and could save you some greenbacks...
 
I plan on dropping the tank because I am also putting in a new fuel pump. With the tank down is that going to put all of the fuel lines out of the way?
 
You may have to loosen a couple of body mounts and get pry bar between the frame and tub if it doesn't have a body lift.
The lines are pinched in flat grommet, you should be able to pull them out of harms way then.
 
Good luck with your pump, did the same thing with mine, only it turned into debacle.
New pump and sending unit turned out to be 3/8" shorter than the original so wasn't reaching what little gas was in the tank.
Then discovered the tank had a 10" crack right behind one of the straps.
And I would like to know what Engineering Idiot thought it would be a good idea for the pump outlet and filter inlet to be 3/8", with a 5/16" hard line between them..
Long story short, the 5th time was the charm.
 
Speaking of the pump, the reason that I am replacing it is because of an issue that I've been having. Recently I have driven it and when I push the accelerator it wants to choke out and then it will die. When I put some gas in it it will start and run ok. It's done this twice. I thought there might be a leak, but I can't seem to find any except a little one in the filler neck.
 
Try changing the filter first.
Additionally, look at the vacuum connection to fuel pressure regulator too, should be located at the front of the motor on the fuel rail.
The elbow on mine was broke, and just smelled stinking rich all the time.
My tank had a definite leak, could fill it, park it for a week, fill it again and it would take 6 gallons.
Thought is was the filler hoses, but it wasn't.
Changed my pump/sending unit because I was chasing a Gremlin (cutting out on every bump in the road), and the gauge didn't work.
Found the Gremlin, wasn't the pump, was the power wire on the plug to the coil.
I broke it off the plug while changing the coil (still chasing the Gremlin) and didn't even know it, so it was already broken, just not all the way. Not a hiccup since.
As for your floor pan, that's really meant to be replaced with the tub removed by a qualified body shop.
The Chief is right, it is a structural integrity issue and I would not use rivets either.
if the rust is that bad, I would personally be looking for another tub, that much rust will be a constant can of worms.
How ever you decide, I sincerely wish you the best of luck.
 
I appreciate the replies. On a lot forums you can post and get nothing. YJ owners have been through it all with these machines and really want to help the other guy.
 
I think that's how a lot of us got here.
And isn't that what we do on trail? Help the other guy? It IS a Jeep thing.
Really appreciate Chris running a Zero BS forum!
Some very knowledgeable folks here, too.
My Little Money Pit was supposed to be just a simple trail rig, but she had other plans...
 
I went to change the fuel filter today and discovered that was no fuel filter. It was just a rubber fuel line attached to the metal incoming and outgoing lines. So I had to cut the rubber line in half and put in the new fuel filter.
 
Hmm... not a complete surprise, but I really was hoping it would be that simple for you.
Oh well, welcome to the club! Hopefully someone else here has more experience with your issues than I.
 
Well, it did run without choking out after I put on the fuel filter. I drove it about 2 miles with no problem. But I can't figure why someone would rig it not to use a fuel filter.