1990 the resurrection

dondons1984

New Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2020
Messages
17
Location
Washington state
Hey guys,

so a bit about what is going on since now I have the engine out.

first I bought this Jeep 2 months ago previous owner stated rebuilt and everything checked and good.
On Tuesday I was driving home and I lost power loud clunk so I pulled over cause I was also getting smoke. I got a tow back to town in which next day began tearing down engine.
note to self if you do this is to pull your bumper off with radiator.
Upon examining after dropping the oil pan I shattered piston 5 skirt, wrist pin tore threw the cylinder wall also. This block is toast and not reusable.
What I am doing is taking all the parts that I can and putting them to the side for back up parts after checking them.
When prepping your engine for removal make sure you have e-socket 10 for the top two bolts and a very long over 4 feet of extension with a lot of patience.
when pulling examine each part and specifically make sure all your lines are good as this is a chance to do them. When pulling the engine it’s going to be a pain in the ass as it does not want to remove from the tranny it takes so time.
I will post pictures of everything and keep everyone updated on the progress as I have a bead on a updated inline 6 carb engine with performance parts and hoping to get that today or tomorrow as ironically day one of this happening was day 1 of my week vacation.
861858AC-6F08-4808-B068-BD868765A84D.jpeg


6CB7314A-2635-45BD-AABA-E835DAD239A7.jpeg
 
  • Wow
  • Like
Reactions: Chris and Jakebrake
so cylinder 5 wrist pin broke threw the cylinder wall. This is not repairable at all in which now I have another engine coming on its way in which it should be here tomorrow. It is a inline 6 performance engine that will be going in. Today I took apart the entire engine down to just the core itself.

When removing the pistons and the connecting rods I understand now why so many have said that you cannot drop your piston or connecting rod from below. Since the engine was out I wanted to test the theory so I tried. You cannot within a reason. You will damage your piston skirt if you try this.
Many of us write off the knock that we hear or tick that we hear. I advise you against this. Upon further looking into it cylinder 3 was dry and cylinder 4 had a small hair crack in the skirt. Headgasket that was used was felpro which I highly recommend. When checking to see if any parts are salvagable make sure that when checking they are in spec of what is called for. 1 of my pistons for obvious reasons will not be able to be used. I am turning that into my shifting knob for a good keepsake reminder of what happened. Cylinder 3 is not usable either given that the connecting rod and piston are solid as in not moveable.
What I did notice if you have not is that each piston is labeled with a "f" for front and on the bottom of each connecting rod it is labeled which piston it goes to. This is very important to keep track of. Camshaft is in perfect condition and so are 4 of the 6 pistons and connecting rods.

Note to self when doing the engine pull to put on a engine mount so you can rotate it is that if you have a manual that you must remove the clutch and fly wheel to have it properly seat. The timing chain and sprockets did not have timing marks so also make sure you are ready for that.

This write up is purely for everyone to read and learn from
This started off as a small tick in which I was told was normal in which turned into this. I know that Jeeps break and that the inline 6 is a strong engine but same time make sure when you buy one that you have that extra engine or parts for it.

Engine pull though after the two last bolts on top of the engine was simple enough. I recommend when you pull it to just take trash bags as I did or painters plastic to cover it so that no debris enters that area. I have in my time been cleaning up the wiring and also sealed the engine bay and cleaned it up. I will add pictures after this just to show the damage that was done. Keep in mind all levels were normal. No overheating, no oil pressure issues nothing.

If you guys have questions or anything feel free to ask. i will be keeping the core to make into a table but rather than that if you need a part reach out and I will do what I can when the new engine is in.
 
well on a side note my jeep has a name.

Salty Bitch

She didnt want to give anything up at all and only wants the best attention and to me that is a salty bitch. Most would say high maintnence but man oh man. We spent most of the night cleaning everything up and prepping. Cleaned all the milky crap off, checked wiring, checked all the nuts and bolts and made sure it was all good. still waiting on the engine to show up and brother in law is still asleep. Cherry picker is ready to be pulled out. Only thing I hate is the fact that the previous owner cut so many wires that I have to extend the previous wire for the electric choketo hook it back up to my weber carb.

She is getting all new hoses and belts. Yes it may be overkill but after we checked them out we are sure that there is no promise that the previous contamination is going to be all out and we want to play it safe. Along with new hoses we noticed that the belts are all factory on my 90 which I find odd given that it has 154xxx miles on it. New parts that have been on it that the previous owner did do is the following.

Clutch and whole clutch system (throw out bearing, slave cylinder all of it).
New fly wheel
new starter
new coil
new distributor and points
new suspension minus shocks, ball joints and hubs (probably gonna get those done by les schwab given I dont have a press and dont want to deal with the headache

the big downfall that I have found is that the previous owner cut a lot of wires along with cutting one that goes to the cluster for my dash gauges and he hooked it up to his water temp gauge. We are trying to figure that one out so if you know what is up please let me know. I know that the connections to the gauges sometimes need cleaned. He did cut the purple wire if you want to know.
I will need to get a new speedo gear also given he did regear the back but as for now I am ok given that I have been living with that and been using an app for my speedo but these things dont go fast enough for a cop to even look at you.

We have been keeping everything isolated as to not mix up bolts and nuts so that when time comes to put it all back together it is pretty simple.

I will do an update tonight after the engine gets here and goes in.
 
update.

so went through the new engine. everything checks out just fine. nothing is out of spec and actually the only issue that is that it has a lot of carbon built up. Getting the intake and exhaust manifold lined back up was not fun. everything is torqued down to spec and cleaned up. engine was married to the transmission yesterday night along with a new pilot bearing and all. Will need to get a new engine mount given that one of them has a small crack near the bushing. Today is hooking back the electrical, radiator, wiring and putting first set of fluids back in with some seafoam to break up the carbon buildup. I will be cleaning the carbs before firing them up though.

Checked clearances and made sure that all the pistons, sleeves, bearings and all were good. No uneven wear on anything, no blueing out of the normal. new hoses are all going on also along with new fuel filter (figured why not since I got it). Only issue we are having is the electrical side and making sure that all connections are good. Will be hooking up my electric choke also.

Questions I have is the following:

Muffler that is on it has a small opening on the connecting flange. Brother in law is going to weld it. Is this a common breaking area?

Gauges didnt work previously and we noticed a lot of cut wires running to the stereo area and previous owner had a cb hooked up with aftermarket water temp gauge is there normally a lot of cut wires when putting in a aftermarket stereo? (it is a marine stereo)

Do we have a donut that goes onto our exhaust? I dont see one in the manual but I want to make sure as I really dont want to pull the exhaust off again (way to much rust that has been cleaned up now).

Any other advice or pointers are appreciated as this is just my write up on my rebuild from a engine I got from a guy. He sold me a 4.2 with a BA-10 tranny and tc for 200.00 and all checks out. pictures will follow as they are on my phone and this is being typed up on the laptop (hands are def killing me).