1990 Jeep YJ "The Grey"

erikmuntz

New Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2020
Messages
11
Location
California
All;

Bought my Jeep YJ back in January of 2019 and have done quite a bit of work to it up to this point. I'll try to remember it all and explain it below. Keeping this thread running and open as I continue to make changes and additions to the YJ.

Bought the Jeep, these were the details.
-1990 Jeep YJ
-AMC 258 IL6 4.2L
-AX-15 5 Speed Manual

-4" lift
-33" BFG Baja's
-Bilstein Shocks
-Corbeau Bucket Seats
-Full rock shields underneath
-10,000 lb winch

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This is what she looked like when I picked it up. Knew I was going to do some pretty drastic changes to the look and service/overhaul it. This all came quicker than I thought when the rear axle took a sh*t. Was able to get it parked, do some troubleshooting, and tow it back to my place about a week later. Pulled the rear diff cover off and about 3 full teeth from the ring gear came out with the diff fluid. Cleaned out the housing, removed everything, and ordered replacement gears. Came to a crossroads at this point about weather or not I wanted to make a rock crawler or an offroading/overlanding/affordable Jeep. Decided on the second one, stuck with the Dana 35/30 combo, and decided to stick with the Dana 35 3.55 gears.

Attempted to do the rear axle myself, got all the tools for it, and spent about 3 hours a day for 2 weeks trying to properly space the thing. After that stretch of time, brought it in to a mech who was phenomenal who called me within minutes of me dropping it off and told me I had the wrong size carrier in the axle for the 3.55 gears. One of the previous owners must've done a regear and then gone back to the 3.55, didn't change the carrier, and that explains how and why, combined with an axle seal leak, caused the ring gear to pretty much explode.

Prior to me taking the Jeep to the shop, when it was up on Jack stands, I removed the soft top, doors, fender flares...pretty much everything but the tub, sanded it down so the paint would bite, and painted it grey with Rustoleum 2-in-1. Topped it with a matte coat and unmasked it. It turned out way better than I thought it would. Below is a picture of it on a trail pretty much right when I got it able to go.
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Fast forward a few weeks, me and my buddy are offroading on a pretty narrow trail, me in my Jeep, him in his Tacoma and we get ourselves into a squirlly situation. His Tacoma, long for one of the turns, begins to slip a little down a pretty steep draw. I come back to winch him out and, as I'm winching, my Jeep sputters and dies. Great. Below is a picture of my friends Taco.
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Long story short, Jeep came down after being jumped but stalled at the bottom. Taco was able to be saved by an awesome Facebook group I'm a part of made up of dudes with Jeeps.

Tracked the problem down to a bad ICM, did a quick swap, and it started up immediately. When replacing the ICM I also cut off the old front fenders and put on new Barricade Tube Front Flares. Below is the before/after.
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Definitely made some mistakes on the front Fender cutting. Cut part of the inside fender a little too much and had to take some scrap aluminum to fill some holes as best as I could caused by that. Installing these fenders also resulted in me puncturing the vacuum reservoir when my hand slipped when drilling, whoops. Took Hefty bag, covered the hole, made sure to tape around all the edges, then Duct Taped it like crazy. Remounting the windshield wiper/coolant bottles was interesting. Below is a recent picture of me out on the trail with the both fenders installed and where she sits now. Some notes: I live in the desert so removed the windshield wipers completely: I carry around windex and a towel which works great. I have new Falken tires which are going on this week. After posting this I'm going to remove the sway bar and track bar from the front fender. One of my sway bar end links is broken and, with leaf springs, I want as much flex as I can get.

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Within the next few weeks I'm planning to, in order:
-remove sway bar/track bar
-mount tires
-mount Barricade rear fenders

Look forward to continuing to build this, improve it, and adding to this thread.
Erik
 
All;

Decided to get some work on the Jeep done tonight. Wanted to fix this ridiculously annoying slow rear diff leak that has been staining my garage. I've been checking my fluid level every few days to monitor the rate. I also wanted to check the front diff health by checking the fluid level and quantity.

Went to AutoZone, grapped some 80w-90, red RTV, and am pumped to find a new black Jeep steering wheel cover to replace the one that is all torn up.

Got back home and pulled off the front diff fill bolt. I was very pleasantly surprised to find the fluid nice and clean and nearly topped off. Needed to add a little fluid but was pretty straight forward.

Went back to the rear diff, cracked it open, and was very very pleasantly surprised. The gear oil had very little metal shards in it and the gears looked to be in great shape. Below is a picture of it all opened up before any work.

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I cleaned out the rear diff casing with some paper towels sprayed with some brake cleaner to get as much of the metal shards out as I could Below is a picture of my finger after wiping some of the oil out of the carrier and a paper towel which better shows the tiny metal particles. It is relatively normal for the first diff oil change after a regear to have pretty large chunks of metal as the gears which aren't perfectly manufactured kind of "grind" themselves to the norm so to speak. Mine had a pretty small amount of metal particles.

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Began the process of cleaning up the mating surfaces which was the most time consuming part of this process. Tools I used include a brass and steel wire brush, brake cleaner, sanding pads, and finger nails. Found that brake cleaner followed by wire brush followed by sanding worked the best. Brake cleaner dried it up and dissolved it and the other two removed the RTV.

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The axle was pretty awkward to clean up.
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Used some Permatex Red RTV Gasket Maker. Shot for a 1/4 inch around the top of the cover and did double that on the bottom where leaks are more prevalent. Went back around the bolt holes as well. See below.

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Once the RTV was applied, waited around 20 minutes for it to get tacky and hard. At this time I thought "wow, this is the first project on my YJ I've done where something hasn't gone wrong." Decided to spend the time and clean up the threads of the bolts a little bit.

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Through the diff cover on, hand tightening the bolts and letting it sit for an hour.
I'm a fool in a man's shoes thinking this would go without anything going wrong. Tightened all bolts to 10 ft-lb no problem. Move up to 25 ft-lbs and, of course, I break a bolt. Ok. Cool. I move on and lower the torque to around 15 ft-lb and finish the job. I think I started to break another but stopped cause my heart couldn't take it. Of the 10 bolts on the cover I think 8 are effective. I have a trip planned to Big Bear tomorrow so I did the only responsible thing: I shoved a bunch of RTV into the hole! I'll deal with this problem in a few weeks. I'll be making sure to monitor the rear diff and its fluid level but I'm not overly concerned. If it has a rapid leak I won't go but any slow leak I'm still going to execute. I'm also snooping around for a Dana 44 rear so this 35 is really a temp axle for me. Below is a picture of the broken bolt before I filled it with ITV. Luckily both broken bolts are on top.

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With this problem dealt with (for now) I started to work on another project. I've wanted some additional dedicated storage so ordered the Besttop rear tailgate organizer and bags. Easy install, self tapping screws, great instructions. 10/10 recommend. Below are some photos of the bags and them full of gear needed for the Big Bear wheeling trip this weekend.

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Excited to keep adding on. Have a shade coming in, some new seatbelts, new leaf plates, and I'm still waiting for a new set of leafs with shocks. I'll continue to update this! Will post pictures of this weekend over on the wheeling trip thread.

Keep wheeling
Erik

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Last edited:
Nice Jeep. When I saw the second pic of the storage bags I thought, "What in the hell is standing behind it?" Then I realized it was just the straps and buckles.
 
All;

Tearing apart the wiring harness when waiting for the alternator to come in and was met with just absolute chaos. Found about 20 dead end wires. Makes sense with the removal of the ECU and nutter bypass, but very frustrating none the less. Below is a picture of the nonsense.
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Made it my goal to clean this up a little so as to not lose my mind when anything electrical goes awry. Cut all the dead end wires at their origin, hooked up a battery, and every thing was still working. Starter would click but, due to low voltage, not turn.

Going to seal everything back up tomorrow and ensure anything that might have power going to due to splicing is properly insulated.

Have a 120A alternator arriving here on Friday and new headers. Any recommendations on gauge updates for the alternator wire?

keep Jeepin.
Erik
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
The previous owner just cut all those wires? Wow, talk about lazy :rolleyes:

As for wire gauge, my understanding is that going to a different gauge won't actually do anything. What matters most is that the wire is in good shape, and more importantly that the terminals are in good shape.
 
I found out the hard way with those diff bolts. I went and got grade 8 bolts and put them on. I think those bolts are just like head bolts sometimes cause with mine I broke off 3. I just got done doing a full rebuild on mine and swapped every single bolt and nut for better grade. If you can I’d do that. Yes it’s spendy but it is worth it especially those intake bolts. Those will freak you out along with your thermostat housing bolts.
All;

Decided to get some work on the Jeep done tonight. Wanted to fix this ridiculously annoying slow rear diff leak that has been staining my garage. I've been checking my fluid level every few days to monitor the rate. I also wanted to check the front diff health by checking the fluid level and quantity.

Went to AutoZone, grapped some 80w-90, red RTV, and am pumped to find a new black Jeep steering wheel cover to replace the one that is all torn up.

Got back home and pulled off the front diff fill bolt. I was very pleasantly surprised to find the fluid nice and clean and nearly topped off. Needed to add a little fluid but was pretty straight forward.

Went back to the rear diff, cracked it open, and was very very pleasantly surprised. The gear oil had very little metal shards in it and the gears looked to be in great shape. Below is a picture of it all opened up before any work.

View attachment 116021

I cleaned out the rear diff casing with some paper towels sprayed with some brake cleaner to get as much of the metal shards out as I could Below is a picture of my finger after wiping some of the oil out of the carrier and a paper towel which better shows the tiny metal particles. It is relatively normal for the first diff oil change after a regear to have pretty large chunks of metal as the gears which aren't perfectly manufactured kind of "grind" themselves to the norm so to speak. Mine had a pretty small amount of metal particles.

View attachment 116024

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Began the process of cleaning up the mating surfaces which was the most time consuming part of this process. Tools I used include a brass and steel wire brush, brake cleaner, sanding pads, and finger nails. Found that brake cleaner followed by wire brush followed by sanding worked the best. Brake cleaner dried it up and dissolved it and the other two removed the RTV.

View attachment 116022

The axle was pretty awkward to clean up.
View attachment 116023

Used some Permatex Red RTV Gasket Maker. Shot for a 1/4 inch around the top of the cover and did double that on the bottom where leaks are more prevalent. Went back around the bolt holes as well. See below.

View attachment 116026

Once the RTV was applied, waited around 20 minutes for it to get tacky and hard. At this time I thought "wow, this is the first project on my YJ I've done where something hasn't gone wrong." Decided to spend the time and clean up the threads of the bolts a little bit.

View attachment 116027

Through the diff cover on, hand tightening the bolts and letting it sit for an hour.
I'm a fool in a man's shoes thinking this would go without anything going wrong. Tightened all bolts to 10 ft-lb no problem. Move up to 25 ft-lbs and, of course, I break a bolt. Ok. Cool. I move on and lower the torque to around 15 ft-lb and finish the job. I think I started to break another but stopped cause my heart couldn't take it. Of the 10 bolts on the cover I think 8 are effective. I have a trip planned to Big Bear tomorrow so I did the only responsible thing: I shoved a bunch of RTV into the hole! I'll deal with this problem in a few weeks. I'll be making sure to monitor the rear diff and its fluid level but I'm not overly concerned. If it has a rapid leak I won't go but any slow leak I'm still going to execute. I'm also snooping around for a Dana 44 rear so this 35 is really a temp axle for me. Below is a picture of the broken bolt before I filled it with ITV. Luckily both broken bolts are on top.

View attachment 116028

With this problem dealt with (for now) I started to work on another project. I've wanted some additional dedicated storage so ordered the Besttop rear tailgate organizer and bags. Easy install, self tapping screws, great instructions. 10/10 recommend. Below are some photos of the bags and them full of gear needed for the Big Bear wheeling trip this weekend.

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Excited to keep adding on. Have a shade coming in, some new seatbelts, new leaf plates, and I'm still waiting for a new set of leafs with shocks. I'll continue to update this! Will post pictures of this weekend over on the wheeling trip thread.

Keep wheeling
Erik

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