OMG Brakes

I am about 4 weeks into my brakes issue that came up after replacing my hubs. First, I thought it was a M/C as it was way rusty and had bubbles in rear port of front brake res. That didn't fix it. While on the goodness knows which bleed event, went with new hoses at all 3 location. Then, during another bleed session, could hear air in passenger caliper but no fluid leaking. Changed out calipers for re-mans. Still cannot get air out of front. Rears "seem" to bleed up fine enough. Bench bled M/c on vehicle enigine off, zero bubbles and dluid movement when it should. Connect back up, whole other bottle of fluid and still have air in system and very, very weak pedal. Anyone with ideas? Oh, and changed booster and P-valve and both front hard lines and m/c to p-valve lines

Yes, I was bleeding both "one-man" (bleeder screw open, tube in bottle with end submerged in fluid, pump till re needs more and continue until bottle is full) starting with RR, LR, RF, LF. When I thought I had all the air out and a decent pedal, got friend on pedal to pump up and bleed. End of that, semi spongy pedal and with engine on, whisper soft pedal till front brakes finally grab a little something and stop me. Repeat this about 20 times. At least two gallons of juice thru system. Wrecked my knee with all the "up and down" action. Will hold ion a hill but 20mph (in my cul-de-sac) takes 20-30 feet to stop even if I pump. Took to shop on Mon 26 Aug. So far, mech said found a broken caliper pad and rear brakes were "adjusted too tight". So, we'll see.,.

So, after blowing my knees out from all the "git down, git up" from the gallons of bleeding, I took it to a shop around the corner from me. Within an hour, I get a call that a front ciliper pad was cracked or broken and that my rear brakes were "dragging"/over-adjusted (shoes and springs brand new, drums well within spec even though they look like reclaims fdom the Titanic). Calipers new and pads (new/old stock). So I get them some pads in 40 mins and by then the tech was on another job. Next morning, i get a call that the rotors look like crap(yep). I ask, are they straight? (I had already mic'd them for thickness) he said "yes". I then said " just bleed the system and I'll do rotors and drums later. Two hours later, they called and it was done. When I went to pick up, engine off, brakes were very firm at maybe 2 inches of pedal. Engine started, I get about 3-4 inches of travel. Hmmm.(I think they may have ahot too early, I have been here before...). In gear, roll, tap brake like I used to (over a month and a half ago) and jeep all but cartwheeled! Holy macaroni!! So now, 50+ mph, out of gear, barely rest my foot on brake and immediate slowing. Can definately feel that all 4 corners are braking. Tried a "hard stop" from 50 mph and just kept from locking up and stopped well within reason (maybe 30 feet, not 100 on the distance but, impressive compared to what I used to have). In the end, the ONLY component of the entire brake syaytem NOT replaced is the long line from P-valve to rear hose and the brake pedal itself. With the mechanic $$, I am in what I paid for the Jeep in '17 (<$1600). Very happy to be road-worthy again. Now on to funding acquisition for clutch, engine swap, suspension.