Looking to do a YJ. A run around town, a little high way. Looking to lower, want to upgrade the underside steering linkage etc brakes to disc. So what suppliers for jeeps do the people on here recommend? This is a first for myself I’m 71 any advice on what to look for besides rusty frames and body. So any drive linkage, wheel bears etc. would be greatly appreciated.
Looking for advice on modifying my first Jeep
- Thread starter Frank
- Start date
Buy a sports car. If you lowering it for handling reasons...er.well its a top heavy turd of a box. If its because its hard to get in and out of due to the body below the door invest in a plasma cutter and hack away. Try to find a bone stock YJ and look at how close the bump stops are to the axle so you can get an idea of how little it can be lowered without sitting metal to metal. No to be a smart ass, but it is what it is. Far as speed......like they say..speed kills, buy a jeep.
What Gilaguy said about the stock height. Here is my Jeep on new stock springs. It has a 1" body lift. Looks beefy doesn't it? The axles sit on top of the springs, so the bump stops are closer than you'd think. They are a direct evolution of the CJ line. They were already lowered for stability. That suspension is about as low as it gets.
I can't imagine how much rougher it would ride with even less suspension travel. These things are short. They'd rather bounce over a bump.
As far as stering linkage, not sure how you'd upgrade a solid axle linkage as they tend to be kinda the way they are. High steer or hydraulic ram are the only one's I've seen and that is more for a trail rig. Again, these are short in length. They have surprisingly good maneuverability because of that.
The front brakes are disc already.
Not sure swapping the rear to disc are gonna help much. I think most people upgrade the brake booster in some way. I have no issues with mine stopping when I need it to, so I haven't researched that.
Now, what you said about running around town very little highway use? Yeah, that's perfect for a YJ.
That said, you need to make sure you're pretty limber as the door sill is very high. You step waaaaay up, over, and back down to get in.
I can't imagine how much rougher it would ride with even less suspension travel. These things are short. They'd rather bounce over a bump.
As far as stering linkage, not sure how you'd upgrade a solid axle linkage as they tend to be kinda the way they are. High steer or hydraulic ram are the only one's I've seen and that is more for a trail rig. Again, these are short in length. They have surprisingly good maneuverability because of that.
The front brakes are disc already.
Not sure swapping the rear to disc are gonna help much. I think most people upgrade the brake booster in some way. I have no issues with mine stopping when I need it to, so I haven't researched that.
Now, what you said about running around town very little highway use? Yeah, that's perfect for a YJ.
That said, you need to make sure you're pretty limber as the door sill is very high. You step waaaaay up, over, and back down to get in.
I have a 91 YJ,5speed and 4L motor with 175k miles. I bought it in 1994 and my really only issue has been the clutch. It's a fun to run around town and drive to the beach. I never had any issue with the steering or brakes. At a160k I replaced the ball joist, belts, wires and hoses. No rust on mine never used it in the winter. My 2 grandsons are fighting over who will inherit it when I gone. With the leaf spring suspension the ride will always be rough. Good Luck.
does the word DO mean buy? or you have one already.?
all the parts can be replaced to lower any YJ to stock height. ( ask for top sellers, or search here)
my guess is DO means buy,
there is only 2 answers (brief)
1: do not buy rusty jeeps, (cars) period ( for sure)
2: drive it first. make sure its not a wreck of a drive train. (tranny screams it is bad, etc, etc etc) engine drums betting I am done?
the car is 30 years old, that means what will be , will be !
I'd examine every inch of the car, for damage, leaks, rust, and previous collision damage. (bent frames) if not clear on that have shop check it out first.
go 1992 and up, to get MPI EFI full injection
go 4.0L.
where is this mansfield. TX or OH or UK? ( locations matter) asking for next line answer.
in OH that is the salt belt, and fully of endless rust and doom. OH is salt belt for sure.
never buy those. unless garaged all winter long.
use web site , AUTO FAQs to find history of car using sellers VIN, oops , see if it lived in the salt belt all its life.
Any car this old needs a full careful inspection, If the prices super low , rust is there.
The answer is all these things are checked.
even the front end caster way off and wonders and weaves like mad, and dangerous to drive. (jacked up wrong)
bad tie rods, ball joints, steering box shot., loose or bad shackles on springs x8 and bushings
wheel hub bearings shot
engine , trans and XFR case shot. ( just listen as you drive it)
U-joints shot.
it's old.
gross oil /lube or brake fluid leaks , all brakes a wrec,k like mine were.
I had to put new SST brake lines on mine, old were SHOT.(rust bad)
There will be electrical problems.
or hacks or wrong parts put in the car.
I put $3000 in parts on mine but knew I had to ,at the get go.
what you expect on any car this old IDK. not me.