Hello!
Here are symptoms: Engine temp gauge stays at 100 degrees (bottom) regardless of coolant temp.
Here is what I've found so far. If I ground the coolant temp sending unit wire, and turn key, gauge doesn't peg as it does on videos I've found on youtube on diagnosing issues with temp gauge. However, when I turn the key (with sending unit wire grounded OR attached to sending unit), the needle jumps just a tiny bit...I'd say less than 1/16th of an inch....but I can definitely see the slight movement.
My assumptions/questions: Since the gauge doesn't peg when grounding sending unit wire, I assume the gauge itself could be bad. However, it's possible the wiring could be bad as well...that is to say, no continuity between the sending unit wire and gauge cluster. What is the best way to solve this issue, without going straight to parts cannon approach? Maybe check continuity from cluster plug pin and sending unit wire? What does it mean that the needle jumps a little when key turned to on position? Does this confirm the "wiring" to the gauge is most likely OK, suggesting that the gauge itself needs replacement? If pointing towards faulty gauge, Is it possible that the gauge could be restored, cleaned, etc., to resolve? Any and all help you all could provide would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks folks!
Here are symptoms: Engine temp gauge stays at 100 degrees (bottom) regardless of coolant temp.
Here is what I've found so far. If I ground the coolant temp sending unit wire, and turn key, gauge doesn't peg as it does on videos I've found on youtube on diagnosing issues with temp gauge. However, when I turn the key (with sending unit wire grounded OR attached to sending unit), the needle jumps just a tiny bit...I'd say less than 1/16th of an inch....but I can definitely see the slight movement.
My assumptions/questions: Since the gauge doesn't peg when grounding sending unit wire, I assume the gauge itself could be bad. However, it's possible the wiring could be bad as well...that is to say, no continuity between the sending unit wire and gauge cluster. What is the best way to solve this issue, without going straight to parts cannon approach? Maybe check continuity from cluster plug pin and sending unit wire? What does it mean that the needle jumps a little when key turned to on position? Does this confirm the "wiring" to the gauge is most likely OK, suggesting that the gauge itself needs replacement? If pointing towards faulty gauge, Is it possible that the gauge could be restored, cleaned, etc., to resolve? Any and all help you all could provide would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks folks!