Recent content by Walt Jaquith

You don't need diodes. If you look at the diagram of the turn signal switch you'll see that the switch handles disconnecting what's needed to keep current from flowing back through the system. When the left (for instance) turn signal is activated, the brake circuit for that side is...

Mine firmed up quite a bit when I put the 8.8 in there. Even with the disks on the Dana 35 that I had before the pedal was weak, but the 8.8 helped a lot. I don't know if I just got more air out when I bled them, or what, but the braking on my rig feels much better now.

Your cheapest route will be finding a used, running 4.2 and dropping it in. However, some engine swaps are almost as economical. The cheapest one I've found is still a version of the one I did: Swapping in the engine, transmission and T-case from an early 90s S10 Blazer with the 4.3L V6 and...

The slip yoke eliminator is in, and the 8.8 is fitted. I'll order the driveline today. Final driveline angle was 8.8 degrees at ride height, accounting for the offset of the 8.8. The E-brake cables from the 94 Grand Cherokee (installed when I converted the old axle to disk brakes) fit the...

I have a nylon case I keep it in which fits tight enough in the drawer I got that it isn't a problem.

It depends. With a single cardan (regular u-joint at each end) shaft, I need the t-case and Pinion flanges to be parallel. But that probably won't work for the angle I'm running, so I'll go double cardan at the T-case, meaning the pinion needs to match the driveshaft angle. A complicating...

This project has been on hold for a long time, but it has a new urgency. When I swapped in the 4.3, I put the T-case back exactly where the old one was. I've never loved the driveline angle, but it was working before, so I figured I could live with it. Nope. I've picked up the dreaded...

I'd put the temp sensor as close to the engine as possible, but I don't see why that wouldn't work. Just make sure you get it in the send line, not the return. It would take a relatively hefty PWM/FET unit to run a radiator fan; those things pull a lot of current. I'm not sure the fine...

With that range I'd put the sensor in the upper radiator hose or at the top of the engine to sense the coolant at it's hottest point, but I would think that would work. You'll have cooler fluid than that coming into the engine from the radiator, which is a good thing.

Final on the bumper. Welded weight, 38lbs. I'm pretty happy with it...

Unfortunately they are not plug and play. The motor mounts are positioned differently. The old ones must be cut off and new ones welded in.

Not certain; they came with the rig. But they look just like these... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0798LQWN9/?tag=yjforum-20

Whatever the happened with the column, I'd still approach a turn/hazard problem holistically; start my making sure you've got power coming in where it's supposed to. Check your ground connections. Check the connectors to make sure there's nothing wrong there. Test the inputs and outputs at...

It's at the powdercoaters now, so I should have final pictures soon. The 11ga was deliberate. The design doubles it and features gussets in the places that need the strength. I didn't want a bunch of extra weight.

They were added mainly because of lawyers. The CJs that came before were narrower with had a higher CG in stock form, and had a bad reputation for tumbling if you swerved to dodge a cat. In stock form with the trac bars you could be a little stupider and still be ok. My yj's got 31s and...