Yj dies while driving

Raeverd

New Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2022
Messages
7
Location
Effingham illinois
I have a 95 2.5 yj. A couple weeks ago it died while driving down the highway. It would not start back up at first but after a few minutes it started. Drove about a half mile and it died again. Waited a few minutes and it started. After that it ran just fine for a couple of weeks. Then 2 days ago it started doing the same thing. Dying while driving down the highway. I was pretty far from home so I tried getting as close as possible and all together it died 16 times. It seemed like the longer I waited to start it back up the further I could go before it would die. Then the last time it died it just wouldn’t start back up. So I had it towed home. I can hear the fuel pump kick on when I turn the key on and check the pressure at the rail and it was good. I checked the cps with a multimeter and it was bad so I replaced it today. Before I replaced it I tried starting it a few times with no luck. After I replaced it it started up no problem. Took it for a test drive and about 10 minutes into it it died. And I started the procedure all over again. This time it died 3 times on my way back home. There are no lights on on the dash and I did the code thing with the key and just got 33 and 55. Which I don’t have an ac so nothing is showing up. I’m at a loss. Anyone have any idea why it would start after changing the sensor then start doing the same thing all over again?
 

SirDoopYJ

YJ Enthusiast
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Oct 2, 2020
Messages
732
Location
Stick Red, Louisiana
I bought my CPS from Napa after mine went bad. I had no problems after. Do you have an automatic or a manual? The automatic CPS needs a spacer on the head of the sensor before putting it in the hole. I am not sure if the manual CPS needs a spacer.

If you didn't put the spacer I would believe the sensor is not at the right distance from the flywheel/driveplate and it is causing an intermittent signal. Though, the CPS should throw a code.
 

machoheadgames

Certified YJ Researcher
Supporting Member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Messages
1,312
Location
Dallas, TX
I bought my CPS from Napa after mine went bad. I had no problems after. Do you have an automatic or a manual? The automatic CPS needs a spacer on the head of the sensor before putting it in the hole. I am not sure if the manual CPS needs a spacer.

If you didn't put the spacer I would believe the sensor is not at the right distance from the flywheel/driveplate and it is causing an intermittent signal. Though, the CPS should throw a code.
Manuals do not need the spacers, luckily. Just bolt on and go.
 

redbullet

YJ Enthusiast
Joined
May 11, 2021
Messages
102
Location
San Jose, CA
I bought my CPS from Napa after mine went bad. I had no problems after. Do you have an automatic or a manual? The automatic CPS needs a spacer on the head of the sensor before putting it in the hole. I am not sure if the manual CPS needs a spacer.

If you didn't put the spacer I would believe the sensor is not at the right distance from the flywheel/driveplate and it is causing an intermittent signal. Though, the CPS should throw a code.
Do you mean a grommet like the one in the link or something else? I have an auto and no spacer. Part number of link of where to buy one?

 

SirDoopYJ

YJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2020
Messages
732
Location
Stick Red, Louisiana
Do you mean a grommet like the one in the link or something else? I have an auto and no spacer. Part number of link of where to buy one?

No, I am not sure what that is.

What I am talking about is this:

It is a sticker that goes on the tip of the CPS. It will allow you to place the CPS close, but not too close to the drive plate. When you start the vehicle, the drive plate will rip the spacer off and your sensor will be in the correct position from the drive plate. It is about a mm of a distance.

Now, the NAPA link I posted, do not be fooled thinking you will be receiving a box of spacers for $8.00. You only get one spacer for $8.00. There are a few alternatives you can find online to use, I can't remember the alternative. Packaging stickers I believe.
 
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Raeverd

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Jun 22, 2022
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7
Location
Effingham illinois
It’s a manual. I thought I had it fixed. Unhooked the battery overnight and tried driving it this morning. Did great with no dying until about noon. Then started dying and wheat would restart it would only go about a quarter mile before shutting down again.
 

Flyer58

YJ Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 12, 2020
Messages
627
Location
Magnolia, Texas
Just guessing that it's maybe temperature related and a poor electrical connection. It's worth your time to remove and clean every relay and electrical connector you can find. Get a good spray contact cleaner to help. 20+ years of being a Jeep adds up and I've found corrosion on every connector.
 
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Raeverd

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Jun 22, 2022
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7
Location
Effingham illinois
Ok guys after replacing the cps twice it needed up not being a faulty sensor. After putting the new one in it wouldn’t even start and had to be towed home. Again. Checked the fuel pressure on the rail and there really wasn’t any this time and I could not hear the fuel pump kick on. So I replaced the pump. Started right up. Took it for a test drive and got about 3 miles and it died. Then the 3 miles back home it died 6 more times. But this time the engine had a rough idle to it. So I got a new fuel filter and just replaced it. Pulled out of the drive way and it died. Took it down the road a bit and it did fine. Now I’m on another test run with it and about 5 miles into it it has died 2 times already. Each time it won’t start I’ve replaced the map sensor, cps, fuel pump and fuel filter and after each one it starts right up and drives for a bit. Sometimes it will go less then a half mile sometimes it will go 20 miles. I’m at a loss. I don’t know what I should check next. I don’t have any codes and my check engine light doesn’t come on. But after changing the fuel filter the rough idle went away.
 

Flyer58

YJ Enthusiast
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Apr 12, 2020
Messages
627
Location
Magnolia, Texas
Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail at the engine, put the open end in a big bucket or gas can, and run a jumper across the fuel pump relay socket to make the pump run continuously while pumping fuel into the gas can. Do it until a few gallons have passed through to make absolute certain the line or filter isn't getting clogged over time.

I've read about globs of junk in the tank which block the fuel flow at random times.

Just be extra careful when dealing with raw gas and fumes.

When it dies can you put a spare sparkplug on a plug wire and see if it is sparking? Just lean the plug against the engine somewhere.
 
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Raeverd

New Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2022
Messages
7
Location
Effingham illinois
Latest update. Jeep starts up after waiting a minute or so after dying. However, it does not die if I go in reverse and has now started to die as soon as I try to drive forward. It also is making a whining noise when I turn my steering wheel which I suspect is the power steering and when I let go it almost dies. I checked the power steering fluid and it’s full but was hot and had a lot of little bubbles on the top. After letting it sit with the battery cable off, I started it and let it idle for about 5 minutes and it just seemed a little too hot under the hood for only idling for a few minutes. I have checked and my oil is good and my reservoir tank is at the full mark. I’m not quite sure what temp it’s running at cause my gauge hasn’t worked for the last couple of years. I’ve checked my relays and they all are working. I read on here somewhere to check fuse #5 cause it is for the fuel pump and auto shutdown relays and it was good.
Tomorrow I will do what Flyer58 suggested with the fuel line at the fuel rail. Along with cleaning the relays and connectors. Thanks for all the advice so far.
 

TimberTim

New Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2022
Messages
4
Location
NorCal
Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail at the engine, put the open end in a big bucket or gas can, and run a jumper across the fuel pump relay socket to make the pump run continuously while pumping fuel into the gas can. Do it until a few gallons have passed through to make absolute certain the line or filter isn't getting clogged over time.

I've read about globs of junk in the tank which block the fuel flow at random times.

Just be extra careful when dealing with raw gas and fumes.

When it dies can you put a spare sparkplug on a plug wire and see if it is sparking? Just lean the plug against the engine somewhere.
I pinched my fuel line between the frame and a rock. The engine ran fine for 2 miles and would die. I would sit for 5 minutes. and the pump pressure would force fuel past the pinch point and refill the fuel line past the pinch. drive 2 miles set 5 minutes. do it over and over. also remove your coil, shake it, if it rattles buy a new one
 
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